i was thinking about getting the stage 2 with stock idle lobes but since most people suggest the spring/retainer kit, might as well get the ones with a more aggressive idle lobe and tune it so its smooth later. So what are your guys thoughts on this and what kind of gains over the stage 2 with stock idle lobes?
any dyno's?

 

My friend had the non stock idle lobed stage 2's, P&P, DPR inner springs stock outer, Eagle rods, type-s pistons, head milled for about 11.4:1 CR, 2.5 cat back exhaust, hollowed cat, crappy dc header, and lightened flywheel. Puts 201hp @7400 156tq @ 5000 with hondata and untuned cams (0,0).

Idle at 700rpm is a bit lumpy at times with the lightened flywheel. No problem with cold start. No sudden stalling. On a roadtrip last weekend we made about 470 miles each tank, so about 34 MPG at 80mph with cruise.

otherwise check out the "Esential Prelude Links" at the top of the forum. There is a Prelude dyno thread. there are some Crower 2's there i think.

hope that helps some
the Pirate

 

I put down 195.2whp with the stage 2's with the stock idle lobes. No P&P, no head work at all besides the cams with the springs and retainers. DC header AEM pulleys, Type-S pistons .25 over, CAI, ACT Clutch. Tuned with a VAFC. Basically I put down 20+whp with the cams and the VAFC. As for tuning the cams with cam gears, those crowers are best left a 0,0.

 

i want the crower stage 2's.

 

I HEAR THAT CROWER CAMS ARE GOOD CAMS FOR THE H22. IT WILL BE AT STOCK IDLE.

 

thx for the replies
so basically stage 2 without stock idle lobes just idles rough, but it gives more power on the bottom end right? could it be tuned so that its smooth like stock again?

 

whats the difrence ?with stock idle or without?

 

If you're going to get the stock idle lobes stage 2 cams, which i have on my lude, u'll get more low end power from the lude, either way you look at it, you'll lose in horse power or torque. so stick with the stock b/c u'll feel the torque in the car once its dyno tuned, i got mine done today and it pulls all the way to 8000 rpms. plus you need to get ur ecu chipped so that the rev limiter is gone and set to 8500rpms. stage 2 crower cams will make power all the way to 8k. if u want i'll send u my print out from the dyno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killalude03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're going to get the stock idle lobes stage 2 cams, which i have on my lude, u'll get more low end power from the lude, either way you look at it, you'll lose in horse power or torque. so stick with the stock b/c u'll feel the torque in the car once its dyno tuned, i got mine done today and it pulls all the way to 8000 rpms. plus you need to get ur ecu chipped so that the rev limiter is gone and set to 8500rpms. stage 2 crower cams will make power all the way to 8k. if u want i'll send u my print out from the dyno.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but then he needs to get an OBD1 ecu, since u cant chip the OBD2 ecu.

 

i have an OBD1
i have a 93 prelude VTEC

killa - so your saying that the stage 2 with stock lobes will give me MORE power then the ones with more aggressive lobes?
im sorri but i don't understand all that well =/
imma newb

 

also if i up the rev limit then i need the sping/retainer for sure?
i might try to stay with stock spring/retainers if i could.

 

if you get stage 2 cams most DEFF you want to put in the valvetrain parts. otherwise, you cant rev anywhere past stock without some really bad results.

 

but if i get upgraded valvetrain, ill have to change the retainers quite often as my car is daily driven

 

thats not entirely correct. Ive talked to numerous people about their setup, they too are running Titanium retainers on a daily driver and they rev to 10K every chance they get. (b serious obviously) He said hes seen no major wear. and if they do get worn down, replace them or get steel ones.

Has anyone actually had a serious problem in terms of retainers?