According to the following h22 swap guide, the writer states that unless your car is an EX the harness must be modified. My car is a 95 honda EX. I'm not going for the full out h22 swap, just swaping the f22b1 SOHC head with a '93 Lude H22a1 head/intake/exhaust manifold. (don't even try to talk me out of it-- i'm trying something here)


Are there modifications in the EX harness with an H22 swap?

"Harness and ECU: Use the Accord harness, and ECU for the H22 (obviously.) Unless your car was an EX the harness must be modified or a harness from an F22B1 used.

*****WIRING (if your car is originally non-VTEC and you dont want to use the F22B1 harness):

Now to clear things up, many people emailed me saying to use the Accord harness and just add the VTEC pressure, VTEC solenoid, Knock Sensor, and Intake Air Bypass wires and you are set. Similar to a B series EG swap, easy right? Well, the truth is actually much, much darker...

First of all, about half of the wires for the sensors have to be relocated/lengthened. This is difficult going into the whole thing blind, and you will spend a significant amount of time cross referencing wiring diagrams in you Helms. I will spare you that pain. Also avoid "mickey-mousing" it, buy some flex tube and tape so you can give the illusion that the wiring was not done by a drunken blind man.

Also, and I can't stress this enough, CHECK YOUR GROUNDS. They are the cause and solution to all of lifes problems!

*Wires to add:

VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block

*Sensors to lengthen:

(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.) Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.

IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.

MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.

EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.

H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.

IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.

ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)

*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.

Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harness with a large enough splice.

*NOTE: SWITCH WIRES A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (H02S heater) at the ECU

When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)

 

Sticky?

 

have fun and the best of luck for this swap

 

yeah i don't forsee any problems... just trying to figure out if the EX harness will have to be modified for the h22 head.

 

oh here's the link for the h22 swap guide... should anyone want it.

http://www.accordinglydone.com/tech/tech.php?ID=54

 

an h22 swap and an h22 head swap on an f22b1 block are two different things...although you will have quite a neat motor, if it does work out, don't go revving it to hell and blow it up...remember that the f22b1 still has a crazy r/s ratio which doesn't like revs...

also, i believe there are some passages between the head and block that need to be partially blocked by a gasket...so keep that in mind...do you even know which gasket you are using yet???

good luck

 

yeah, no crazy revs out of the f22b1. unless i get frisky and put the h22 crank in it. will probably just put some really nice main bearings in it (along with new pistons, rods, etc...) there are 2 oil drain plugs that will have to be blocked, a water pump gear/pully switch and i'll have to run the h22 ecu.


the f23 head gasket is what i plan to use.


so would i have to modify my harness if i just did an h22 head/intake swap?

also, i know that the AEM standalone comes with stock fuel curves pre-selectable to use... anyone know if the A'pexi AFC is preloaded too?


p.s. here's the link to the guy that first did this type of swap. i've talked to him a couple of times and he's been running his engine for little over a month now and has had no problems. course he's on an f22b2 motor.. but i'm sure the difference is minimal.. if any.


https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1