how "reliable" is the b20?
a guy told me the best way to go instead of rebuilding my b16a was to get a b20 and put my b16 head on it, or a type r. I was talking to a friend about that and he told me in a way it was better, but they dont last as long cause they were not originally made to race and run high rpm with vtec, and they were weak. He said he's heard of like b20 blocks cracking!
I am wondering if a b20 its trully the way to go, or not!
Modified by trashkilla at 1:11 AM 5/16/2004
I am wondering if a b20 its trully the way to go, or not!
Modified by trashkilla at 1:11 AM 5/16/2004
Due to thinner cylinder walls, the B20 can be more damage prone than than the other B series engines, however it all depends upon your goals. With only mild upgrades a B20 can a a notable improvement. For high horsepower applications, block sleeving is highly recommended.
so the cylinder walls are thiner so they could crack uh? im sorry but im not familiar with block sleeving, is that making the walls more resistant to pressure?? "making them thicker"?
my goal is to make my car fast, i have a b16a but its not runing good, im gonna have to rebuild it, so instead im considering going with an upgrade and getting the b20. ive heard the b20 has great torque and right night know they are "cheap", but ive heard that overall it wont last as long as if i was to fix my b16.
honestly i dont want to settle for my b16 and spending money on it knowing that the b20 has more potential. i pretty much want a decent, but fast, car that will last me for many years to come
honestly i dont want to settle for my b16 and spending money on it knowing that the b20 has more potential. i pretty much want a decent, but fast, car that will last me for many years to come
if you dont want to deal w/ the thin walls of a b20, get a b18. from an integra. youll have 1.8 instead of a 2.0. essentially youll be building an lsvtec or a b20vtec. search for both of these and you'll see the ups and downs of both motors. search is your friend. make sure to search for the "archived content". youll get at least 500 results for "lsvtec"
the same friend that told me that the b20 couldnt handle too much preassure also told me the b18 (non vtec), like the ls for instance where good to run vtec, but only if the engine had less than 150,000 miles, or else they were also prone to cracking. he told me that that is why the gsr or type r engines are so much more expensive, cause they were made to handle the pressure.
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i searched for b20vtec on yahoo and i found a post about the differences between lsvtec and b20vtec, and what changes could be done, and a list of parts you need for either one, it was very helpful.
http://www.jdmuniverse.com/for....html
http://www.jdmuniverse.com/for....html
I have a 94 integra with a 99 B20z2 shortblock and a 95 Gsr head. Internal's are all stock. I put down 171 hp at front wheels (dynojet). And recently pulled a 13.97 qtr. on slicks. I have been driving the crap out of this block for three years. Very reliable and this is my first build!
If you REALLY want a reliable B20-VTEC, your best bet is to stay away from the LS-VTEC or CR-VTEC and instead sleeve a P72 block (GSR or ITR) to 84-84.5mm.
after reading a lot of info in these forums about the lsvtec and b20vtec, this is the first time i hear this. i dont think its a "real" b20, is it?? the advantage of a b20(crv) is the torque, getting a gsr's or type r's engine an making it a 2.0 wouldnt increase the torque, would it? (yes im a newbie, but thats why im asking this questions to get informed and learn!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trashkilla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after reading a lot of info in these forums about the lsvtec and b20vtec, this is the first time i hear this. i dont think its a "real" b20, is it?? the advantage of a b20(crv) is the torque, getting a gsr's or type r's engine an making it a 2.0 wouldnt increase the torque, would it? (yes im a newbie, but thats why im asking this questions to get informed and learn!)</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, increasing the displacement will allow the engine to make more horsepower and torque. if you get a b20, make sure its a b20b or b20z from a crv.. NOT A B20A from the older preludes... they are terrible..
and this is what swayed my descision to get a used ls block(b18), and sleeving it to 85mm. sleeving the block will cost like 800-1000 bux, the same cost as a b20, but with stronger sleeves. thats what im building in the future
yes, increasing the displacement will allow the engine to make more horsepower and torque. if you get a b20, make sure its a b20b or b20z from a crv.. NOT A B20A from the older preludes... they are terrible..
and this is what swayed my descision to get a used ls block(b18), and sleeving it to 85mm. sleeving the block will cost like 800-1000 bux, the same cost as a b20, but with stronger sleeves. thats what im building in the future
B20b engines from mid to late 90's crv are 8.8 to 1 compression. If you can find one the 99 or newer B20z is 9.6 to 1. Lower mileage and higher compression is worth a little extra shopping. I got lucky and found a steal on one from a salvage yard. Good luck and enjoy your new tourque monster!
wa wa...if you want info a b20 pm me, i have done several, mine itself has over 15k miles on it and been going strong for a year now...i'm in the process of doing 2 ls/vtec's as i type this.
if you want to know anything...pm me..they ARE reliable if they are done correctly...dont listen to people who say "the blocks will crack..." yes they will IF you dont vent the crank case, b20/vtec's make ALOT of crank case pressure..."the sleeves are to thin...anyone who has actually built one and has done it RIGHT will vouch for me when i say they are reliable as any b-series
personally i WILL not go back to any honda under 2.0, the torque is simply amazing daily driving a b20/vtec its VERY noticeable compared to my friends b16a and he was 10.5:1 compression as opposed ot my 9.6:1
if you want more info...pm me
if you want to know anything...pm me..they ARE reliable if they are done correctly...dont listen to people who say "the blocks will crack..." yes they will IF you dont vent the crank case, b20/vtec's make ALOT of crank case pressure..."the sleeves are to thin...anyone who has actually built one and has done it RIGHT will vouch for me when i say they are reliable as any b-series
personally i WILL not go back to any honda under 2.0, the torque is simply amazing daily driving a b20/vtec its VERY noticeable compared to my friends b16a and he was 10.5:1 compression as opposed ot my 9.6:1
if you want more info...pm me
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowazzhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont listen to people who say "the blocks will crack..." yes they will IF you dont vent the crank case, b20/vtec's make ALOT of crank case pressure...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Vent the crank case? Haven't heard this one before. What needs to be done exactly?
I'm wanting to build a motor soon and I'm weighing the options.. B20/LS vtec, b18c5 or possibly h22.
Vent the crank case? Haven't heard this one before. What needs to be done exactly?
I'm wanting to build a motor soon and I'm weighing the options.. B20/LS vtec, b18c5 or possibly h22.
a b20 should be fine just sleeve the cylinders and and have the the block dipped to seal up any little cracks that may be hidden it should be fine..a friend of mine has a 91 integra ls/vtec with a b20 block out of a crv is pretty fas for all motor he its mid 12's in the 1/4 low 12 with slicks ..any way build the block it shpld be ok
b20/vtec's create alot of pressure at higher rpm's...so there fore you must vent the valve cover into a catch can of some sort...i put the pcv valve in the valve cover, and in the process of tapping the valve cover for the catch can...


