SPC Rear Camber kit installed, comparative pictures
I received this very nice looking rear camber kit from SPC(Specialty Products Company). The upper control arms are sold singly, and have a MSRP of $75 each, however they can be purchased from NOPI for ~$55 each, so itÂ’s ~$110 for the pair, which I believe to be a fairly decent deal. The part is adjustable from -2-->+5, I think that's on a stock suspension, so it should give you a fair amount of additional negative camber with the car being lowered.
I would like to thank Downey for his time, and assistance, as well as the camer to take the pictures...he liked the part so much I ordered a set up for the rear of his hatchback.
Installing the rear camber kit was fairly easy…just put the rear up on jacks,

Full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Removing the old piece is a matter of 3 bolts, since I forgot to take pictures of the bolts before I removed the old part, here are the bolts highlighted on the new part:

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Here are a couple of pictures comparing the stock USDM piece to the SPC piece, quite a change…I wonder how much the stock piece flexes under high cornering loads…

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

full size, but and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Then you reinstall the two bolts that are mounted onto the body, making sure that the “adjuster nuts” are still loose, I’ll explain later.

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
The directions from SPC state that you are not to torque down the single bolt, nor are you to tighten down the adjuster nuts until the car is on the ground, which according to the directions will cause the bushing to have a preload against it, which will shorten the life of the bushing…well, we put the car on the ground and couldn’t get to the nuts/bolt, then we tried putting the car on some blocks of wood, still didn’t work….hmmm, aha let’s just take the rim off and put a load against the rotor to put enough of a load on the suspension so that it will see a similar load as if the tire was on the ground. Doing this made me feel that the piece could only be installed as per the instructions if the car was up on a rolled onto a rack and lifted up, similar to when the car is on an alignment machine.

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
And here’s what it looks like when it’s fully installed:

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
In order to change the camber you need to loosen the two “adjuster nuts” and rotate the middle section to the desired camber setting.

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Here's the front camber kit that I'm waiting to come out from SPC...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=825731

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
I would like to thank Downey for his time, and assistance, as well as the camer to take the pictures...he liked the part so much I ordered a set up for the rear of his hatchback.
Installing the rear camber kit was fairly easy…just put the rear up on jacks,

Full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Removing the old piece is a matter of 3 bolts, since I forgot to take pictures of the bolts before I removed the old part, here are the bolts highlighted on the new part:

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Here are a couple of pictures comparing the stock USDM piece to the SPC piece, quite a change…I wonder how much the stock piece flexes under high cornering loads…

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

full size, but and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Then you reinstall the two bolts that are mounted onto the body, making sure that the “adjuster nuts” are still loose, I’ll explain later.

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
The directions from SPC state that you are not to torque down the single bolt, nor are you to tighten down the adjuster nuts until the car is on the ground, which according to the directions will cause the bushing to have a preload against it, which will shorten the life of the bushing…well, we put the car on the ground and couldn’t get to the nuts/bolt, then we tried putting the car on some blocks of wood, still didn’t work….hmmm, aha let’s just take the rim off and put a load against the rotor to put enough of a load on the suspension so that it will see a similar load as if the tire was on the ground. Doing this made me feel that the piece could only be installed as per the instructions if the car was up on a rolled onto a rack and lifted up, similar to when the car is on an alignment machine.

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
And here’s what it looks like when it’s fully installed:

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
In order to change the camber you need to loosen the two “adjuster nuts” and rotate the middle section to the desired camber setting.

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Here's the front camber kit that I'm waiting to come out from SPC...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=825731

full size, copy and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Don't forget to apply copious amounts of anti-seize on the threads (adjustable part) before installing to prevent lockup at a later date. 
Q: did you feel the bracket that mounts to the car was rather thick? I would have liked for the bolts to have a few more turns before they tightened up.

Q: did you feel the bracket that mounts to the car was rather thick? I would have liked for the bolts to have a few more turns before they tightened up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typer193 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">austin, what are you using to measure the amount of camber?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well...I didn't measure it, I just made sure that the length was exactly the same as the stock piece after it was installed. I will be taking the car to have it aligned some time in the future, the last time I had the car aligned by James at Griffen Motorworks in Berkeley, he used to do all of the corner weighting and alignment for Roger Foo.
Austin
Well...I didn't measure it, I just made sure that the length was exactly the same as the stock piece after it was installed. I will be taking the car to have it aligned some time in the future, the last time I had the car aligned by James at Griffen Motorworks in Berkeley, he used to do all of the corner weighting and alignment for Roger Foo.
Austin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't forget to apply copious amounts of anti-seize on the threads (adjustable part) before installing to prevent lockup at a later date. 
Q: did you feel the bracket that mounts to the car was rather thick? I would have liked for the bolts to have a few more turns before they tightened up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Anti-seaze....damn, knew that I forgot something, I'll take care of that when I'm next under the car.
I thought that it the piece was a little thick, and that I would have liked a few more threads, but I still felt that it had plenty of threads.
If you take a look at this picture full size you'll see the difference in the thickness of the two parts:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Austin

Q: did you feel the bracket that mounts to the car was rather thick? I would have liked for the bolts to have a few more turns before they tightened up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Anti-seaze....damn, knew that I forgot something, I'll take care of that when I'm next under the car.
I thought that it the piece was a little thick, and that I would have liked a few more threads, but I still felt that it had plenty of threads.
If you take a look at this picture full size you'll see the difference in the thickness of the two parts:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Austin
I need my cambers and toe on my back but i just put some washers and bolts .. it made it little better but i dont know if it's safe to track the car....
what joo guys think?
That front arm is 180 EACH? expensive chit. but looks really nice.
how do i adjust toe on rear driver side? the back of tire is more out than front. so looks like this /.
i dont mean to steal your post but i didnt wanna open another one for little question.
what joo guys think?
That front arm is 180 EACH? expensive chit. but looks really nice.
how do i adjust toe on rear driver side? the back of tire is more out than front. so looks like this /.
i dont mean to steal your post but i didnt wanna open another one for little question.
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