ITR rear brake help
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From: Bloomingdale, IL
ITR rear brake help
My friend and I are changing brake pads on a 00 ITR. On the rear we need ot know the best way to get the piston retracted in order to put the caliper over the new pads...
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From: USA
Re: ITR rear brake help (JDMpianoguy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMpianoguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys...the honda manual didn't say it, but what about draining some of the brake fluid?</TD></TR></TABLE>
WHY?
Unless the resivoir is at the very top there should be no need to drain any fluid to change pads.
The only reason you would want to remove fluid is to bleed/flush your brake system.
WHY?
Unless the resivoir is at the very top there should be no need to drain any fluid to change pads.
The only reason you would want to remove fluid is to bleed/flush your brake system.
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Re: (pcorad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcorad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Big flat screwdriver!</TD></TR></TABLE> 
Takes all of about 3 minutes to rotate it back in with a screwdriver and doesn't cost you anything.
Takes all of about 3 minutes to rotate it back in with a screwdriver and doesn't cost you anything.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Orlando, FL
Re: (NINJA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NINJA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a rear caliper tool from my local hardware shop for $12 CDN.
It's a bit that attaches to a ratchet extention and looks like a brass cube.
Cheers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's EXACTLY what you need to get. Looks like a cube and has all different sizes for calipers to put back in to get it over the new pads. I think in the U.S they are like $8 or so. Good investment
It's a bit that attaches to a ratchet extention and looks like a brass cube.
Cheers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's EXACTLY what you need to get. Looks like a cube and has all different sizes for calipers to put back in to get it over the new pads. I think in the U.S they are like $8 or so. Good investment
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Re: (pcorad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcorad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Big flat screwdriver!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can even use the shaft part of it (meaning you dont need one with a huge tip) and fit it in the groove the long way and twist.
You can even use the shaft part of it (meaning you dont need one with a huge tip) and fit it in the groove the long way and twist.
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Joined: May 2003
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Re: (JDMpianoguy)
you should flush all the old break fluid and replenish it with a new one... with abs vehilcles you should OPEN the bleeder before pushing any piston back in. you could accidently trigger the ABS light and then you gotta take it to a dealer for reset. They sell a tool for under 10 bucks thats shaped like a 3-d box with diffrent pins sticking out.. it fits onto a regular 3/8 ratchet. you simply push and twist back in.. a pair of needle nosers works fine too.. regrease the bolts covered by the rubber boots, they need to flex on that piece they need to be re lubricated.
u can ask me any other questions, i do brakes in a maintence shop.
u can ask me any other questions, i do brakes in a maintence shop.
Joined: May 2004
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From: Rockford, MI, USA
Re: (IVI)
How much fluid is usually required to do a flush on a 2000 SI?
I'm changing rotors / pads / lines, and I picked up 2L of ATE SuperBlue. I figured that should do it, but it would be nice to know for sure before I begin.
I'm changing rotors / pads / lines, and I picked up 2L of ATE SuperBlue. I figured that should do it, but it would be nice to know for sure before I begin.
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: (kallussed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kallussed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much fluid is usually required to do a flush on a 2000 SI?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Should need less than 1Liter.
I can do a flush with ~3/4 of a Liter.... but its nice to have extra just in case.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Should need less than 1Liter.
I can do a flush with ~3/4 of a Liter.... but its nice to have extra just in case.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Chicago
Re: (kallussed)
Flush the fluid if the fluid needs flushing. If you've already flushed fluid in the previous 12-24 months (or 6 months if you race/autocross your car), then you don't need to do it again.
When changing the pads, first loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, to allow the fluid level to rise when you're retracting the piston. This will make it easier (less pressure) to retract. Also, it's a good idea to place a shop rag around the top of the reservoir at the same time, just in case it overflows. And don't forget to remove it, and tighten the reservoir cap, when you're all done!
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Re: (nsxtasy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Flush the fluid if the fluid needs flushing. If you've already flushed fluid in the previous 12-24 months (or 6 months if you race/autocross your car), then you don't need to do it again.
When changing the pads, first loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, to allow the fluid level to rise when you're retracting the piston. This will make it easier (less pressure) to retract. Also, it's a good idea to place a shop rag around the top of the reservoir at the same time, just in case it overflows. And don't forget to remove it, and tighten the reservoir cap, when you're all done!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
loosen the bleeder. if your doing a flush you dont want to push that dirty fluid back up into the lines and into the master cylinder. crack the bleeder and when you push the piston back in the fluid will come right out of the bleeder nipple.
Flush the fluid if the fluid needs flushing. If you've already flushed fluid in the previous 12-24 months (or 6 months if you race/autocross your car), then you don't need to do it again.
When changing the pads, first loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, to allow the fluid level to rise when you're retracting the piston. This will make it easier (less pressure) to retract. Also, it's a good idea to place a shop rag around the top of the reservoir at the same time, just in case it overflows. And don't forget to remove it, and tighten the reservoir cap, when you're all done!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
loosen the bleeder. if your doing a flush you dont want to push that dirty fluid back up into the lines and into the master cylinder. crack the bleeder and when you push the piston back in the fluid will come right out of the bleeder nipple.
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From: Chicago, IL
Re: (IVI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
loosen the bleeder. if your doing a flush you dont want to push that dirty fluid back up into the lines and into the master cylinder. crack the bleeder and when you push the piston back in the fluid will come right out of the bleeder nipple.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can any air get back in the system this way??
loosen the bleeder. if your doing a flush you dont want to push that dirty fluid back up into the lines and into the master cylinder. crack the bleeder and when you push the piston back in the fluid will come right out of the bleeder nipple.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can any air get back in the system this way??
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Re: (erottik-R)
Anyone have brake fluid come out of the reservoir when pushing the piston back in for the new pads? I flushed my brake fluid last fall and changed my pads a few weeks ago, before a HPDE, and when i pushed in the piston for one of the fronts i noticed brake fluid leaking down from the engine bay onto the floor. It freaked me out, since i had never changed pads before. Apparently because my pads were pretty worn i had too much fluid in the system for the new pads, which forced the fluid out through the resevoir cap when i pushed the piston back in.
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From: Chicago
Re: (CanadianR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CanadianR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Apparently because my pads were pretty worn i had too much fluid in the system for the new pads, which forced the fluid out through the resevoir cap when i pushed the piston back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The reservoir has markings for MIN, the minimum fluid level, and MAX, the maximum. The reason for the difference between the two is to provide for the difference in fluid level and piston travel as the brake pads wear. It's possible that some folks might fill it to the MAX point, thinking that it's like engine oil, but you should not fill it up to that level unless all four pads are new, for exactly the reason you describe.
The reservoir has markings for MIN, the minimum fluid level, and MAX, the maximum. The reason for the difference between the two is to provide for the difference in fluid level and piston travel as the brake pads wear. It's possible that some folks might fill it to the MAX point, thinking that it's like engine oil, but you should not fill it up to that level unless all four pads are new, for exactly the reason you describe.