Hey guys,

So I took my bottom end apart the other day and saw my #3 rod journal to be pretty effed. All the other journals are fine and have no sign of any wear. Anyways, I was wondering if I went ahead and got it machined and replaced all 4 bearings if I'd be ok? Also, I was thinking of getting the rod itself recon'd (not sure if this is necessary?)

So basically, if I did all ofthis would I be ok or is there anything else I have to do to ensure that the car returns back to normal? I'm on quite a budget here so no i cant do a full rebuild or anything

 

Is this the car thats going turbo? If so then i would just change the rods and bearing for stronger stuff for when you go turbo. Because turbo + spun rod bearing = bye bye motor.

I dont know about resurfacing your rod bearings, i just heard to replace them. Maybe you could have them resurfaced but i dont know enough (i know none) info about doing it to say yes. Can anyone put some insite about it?

 

I cant afford pistons and rods currently. I have debt, insurance to pay for AND about 200$ in the bank.

I think you misunderstood me. I'm going to buy all NEW rod bearings. I was just wondering that if I got my crank machined(Only rod journal 3 is crapped) if I could put it together with new bearings, a newly machined crank and not worry about this happening to me again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dyzee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you misunderstood me. I'm going to buy all NEW rod bearings. I was just wondering that if I got my crank machined(Only rod journal 3 is crapped) if I could put it together with new bearings, a newly machined crank and not worry about this happening to me again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, yea i did misunderstood you, i thought you ment you wanted to resurface the rod bearing itself and i didnt know that could be done and work, you know. But for machining the crank, im pretty sure that would help but i dont know personally if its worth the money to help that much. I think once your replace the rod bearing your good to go.

 

Well the reasoning behind me getting the crank itself machined is that its not smooth at all anymore on rod journal #3. I can scratch it with my nail and its not like glass like all the other journals.

 

the smartest thing to do would be to get your whole crank machined until it is true again. Then you find out how many thousandths of an inch it was shaved and order undersize bearings for it (rod and mains) If it took only .010" to fix it then you would need .010" undersize bearings, get it? You shouldn't really only do one part of the crank or only replace one set of bearings, if you do one, you have to do all because you want everything wearing evenly. Also if you only do one you will have different oil clearances throughout the bottom end. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle Swap16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the smartest thing to do would be to get your whole crank machined until it is true again. Then you find out how many thousandths of an inch it was shaved and order undersize bearings for it (rod and mains) If it took only .010" to fix it then you would need .010" undersize bearings, get it? You shouldn't really only do one part of the crank or only replace one set of bearings, if you do one, you have to do all because you want everything wearing evenly. Also if you only do one you will have different oil clearances throughout the bottom end. Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is only one thing I question here. I called up honda just to see what bearings and prices would come out too and it seems that most of my rod journals/bearings already have different clearences and they're not all "even". I mean, I believe I have 2 sets of "yellow"s, one set of brown and one set of green or something. The point being that the stock honda crank dosnt have the same clearnence throughout the crank...

So why can I not just get the crank grinded where the rod bearing spun and micropolish all the other rod journals that did not get screwed up(this was saving me some money).

 

how about trying to pick up a used z6 series short (long) block. I bet you can get one for like $100-200.

 

ya i pick up an auto one for 130 real good shape

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about trying to pick up a used z6 series short (long) block. I bet you can get one for like $100-200.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I cant find one locally. I've been trying for a couple of weeks now and noone has them. Also, buying them from the states would kill me in shipping charges AND broker/duty would just hit me even harder(I live in Canada).

 

Yeah that blows.

 

What about local shops? It might cost a little more because they have to deal with the shipping but maybe they could help you out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about local shops? It might cost a little more because they have to deal with the shipping but maybe they could help you out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Again tried it. For the price of a shortblock in my area I could rebuild my engine. So essentially i cojuld have an engine with "0 km" compared toa used shortblock that I could get shipped.

 

Wow.... Canada sucks. Sorry dude.

What about coming to the states with a truck and picking up a shortblock? or would they still charge you up the *** to bring it back there?

 

I'd get charged mucho for duty on the block.
Problem is, I dont have, or dont know anyone that has a truck that can be driven down to get a short block.

Heck, I dont even have the money to actually pay for gas and then buy the block, im having a rough enough time just payinf for machining + bearings...

 

Quick update.

By some stroke of luck i have found a new shortblock for 50$!!!!.

So my new plan is, replace the shortblock(obviously new headgasket) and drop that in my car and turbo it.

In the meantime, I'll build the D16Z6 and doa full OEM rebuild with new pistons/rods.

x1000)!

 

NICE!!!

 

good job eric, where'd you pick up teh short block if you don't mind me askin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dyzee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quick update.

By some stroke of luck i have found a new shortblock for 50$!!!!.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Excellent, good to hear! Not to go OT, but I'm still wondering about machining the crank. If it's done like suggested: (If it took only .010" to fix it then you would need .010" undersize bearings) whatever the amount of machining it happened to be, and the appropriate bearing sizes were used, wouldn't that make the oil clearances equal to before the machining? Then you can just use the stock bearings for the others, and be good to go?