Ok if I bought a race header and then got custom 2.5'' piping that went to the stock axle back. Would this be loud or still sound like stock?

 

Why would you do that? I'd be a little louder than stock but with the small piping on the muffler and the chambered design, I doubt if there'd be any performance gains.

 

It's gonna be loud as hell with a race header at 8000 rpm's.

 

just get the hyper medallion or world sport if you want quiet. They are 2.36 inch catbacks though so that might be a problem.

 

Well I am going to get a Spoon n-1 axle back eventually. But till then I was going to run stock axle back. Just wondering if it was going to be loud though.

 

It'll be annoyingly loud unless you get a resonator welded somewhere on the b-pipe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MyCarGoesVroom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It'll be annoyingly loud unless you get a resonator welded somewhere on the b-pipe. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Definately with the Spoon N1. I tried a Tanabe mid pipe w/o the resonator running to the Spoon. Oh **** it was loud, car alarms going off, people flippin me off etc. WITH the Tanabe mid pipe and resonator, still loud but not stupid rice loud, and with the silencer, Borla like smooth deep sound. You definately need the resonator, since it's straight through, any losses should be very minimal.

 

No use in doing this. If anything,youll end up losing hp's My advice, search!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dacaveman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok if I bought a race header and then got custom 2.5'' piping that went to the stock axle back. Would this be loud or still sound like stock?</TD></TR></TABLE>


The second your car activates VTEC the sound will be unbearable.

 

So basically I will get pulled over. And get a fat ticket for my exhaust being to loud.

 

I was running on a custom made 2.5" b-pipe and it was not fun at all. I was actually losing HP because there was not enough back pressure. Try the Spoon N1 axle back with the T1R b-pie. It should be better. There's a reason why Spoon, Muge, Greddy, etc didn't go with a 2.5" exhaust for the DC5.

 

I would make a bit of difference but not alot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joshiscool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No use in doing this. If anything,youll end up losing hp's My advice, search!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very seldom do you lose hps from larger exhaust piping

 

anyone ever try the spoon N-1 with a different b-pipe other than T1R? i tried putting my spoon N-1 with my apex WS b pipe but the mounting point on the WS pipe is different

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoSoJeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone ever try the spoon N-1 with a different b-pipe other than T1R? i tried putting my spoon N-1 with my apex WS b pipe but the mounting point on the WS pipe is different </TD></TR></TABLE>

Used my Spoon N1 with:

1. stock mid-pipe (good tone, not too loud, but boomy at 2200 RPM, no butt dyno gain). I picked up a Honda flange out of a muffler shop dumpster and welded it to the Spoon pipe with a step down fitting.

2. Tanabe mid-pipe (loud, needs silencer for daily driving, drones at 2500 RPM, can feel some punch from 3000 RPM+). Had a 2.25" flange welded to the Spoon.

3. Tanabe mid-pipe w/o resonator (fucken loud, I think I got an aneurysm from it, boomy at 1800 RPM+, loss low speed torque but it moves at WOT). Resonator cut out & replaced with 2.5" straight pipe.


Option #2 worked best.

 

2.5" piping is too large for a very mildly modified motor. Not enough back pressure causes hp loss.

 

Backpressure is measured at the exhaust ports....you do not lose hp from having too large of an exhaust.