Most websites state their swaps average 30k miles... I believed it till i saw someone post that its not true... Isn't that illegal then? WTF? IS there a way to find out the truth when buying a swap? Makes me think twice about getting a swap...im saving up for my b18c5 and id be pissed to find out it really had 100k miles , when told it only had 30k.

heres the link to the post where the guy said it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=852357
it was "5W20"... now im thinking twice about spending 4500 for a swap

 

You could probably run a car fax with the vin number and see what was the last mileage on the car before it was totalled (usually they get swaps from totalled cars). I would do a compression test and see how that goes and if it shows good numbers then i wouldnt mind.

 

b18c5 - complete changeover = 4500
swap- 600-800
extras - new pumps, wires..etc.. - 200-400

thats around 6k.
Imagine spenidng 6k for a swap w\ 100k miles.

Am i safer going w\ a usdm c5 rather than jdm ,and not have to worry about getting scammed...or does it go for both ?

 

Get the USDM one. At least you'll be able to run the Vins and such.

 

You can find the mileage on a JDM motor if you buy a front clip.

 

It's not illegal because more often than not they say, "Most swaps average 30-45K" or something similar. They are not making a guarantee of the mileage, so you really can't hold them to it. That's my .02 anyway.

 

Modified by CardDealer at 3:54 PM 11/17/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, a lot of the swaps come from japan where consumers have to get rid of the car after a short amount of time (dont remember exactly, but it's like 2 or 3 years) then Japan starts taxing the hell out of the car and its cheaper to junk it and buy new.....thus they have big yards of these newer cars where they take the engine out and ship them here.....that's why a lot of them only have 30k on them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you serious? that's an interesting concept... saves the gov't time from running emissions and bar testing

 

I, personally, paid the extra money. I went to the junkyard, scratched down some VINs, and found an LS motor with 12,800 miles on it. Plus it was out of an automatic, so it was a rather easy 12,800 miles She is beautiful on the inside.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I, personally, paid the extra money. I went to the junkyard, scratched down some VINs, and found an LS motor with 12,800 miles on it. Plus it was out of an automatic, so it was a rather easy 12,800 miles She is beautiful on the inside.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell yea....the smart way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, a lot of the swaps come from japan where consumers have to get rid of the car after a short amount of time (dont remember exactly, but it's like 2 or 3 years) then Japan starts taxing the hell out of the car and its cheaper to junk it and buy new.....thus they have big yards of these newer cars where they take the engine out and ship them here.....that's why a lot of them only have 30k on them. </TD></TR></TABLE>
this guy is right, i think its after 30k emissions laws tax the hell out of them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CXinthemaking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this guy is right, i think its after 30k emissions laws tax the hell out of them</TD></TR></TABLE>

yyyyyYYYYEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

 

yep and also if you want to keep your car you need to take it some testing BS and pay like **** load of money for the test it self, and they can fail you for little **** too, but some motors could be really high milage.

Also it's the best to get motors from your local dealers or shops because you can take a look at it before you buy it. For example one motor that were looking at had crazy buildup, and the second one looked like it just came out of the factory oil didn't even get to color the metal yet.

 

yup. i'll be getting my c5 form hmotors..i live 30 min away wo0T!
ive heard nothing but good from them, so i guess ill go there, and i assume he lets you choose your motor, i wonder if hell let me take the valve cover off, so ican see how clean/dirty it is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeffk182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can find the mileage on a JDM motor if you buy a front clip.</TD></TR></TABLE>

care to explain how?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeHock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup. i'll be getting my c5 form hmotors..i live 30 min away wo0T!
ive heard nothing but good from them, so i guess ill go there, and i assume he lets you choose your motor, i wonder if hell let me take the valve cover off, so ican see how clean/dirty it is</TD></TR></TABLE>

probably not....all you really need is a compression test or leakdown test and it will be safe, by the way you live 30 mins from them so if you did get scammed you probably could return it will no hassle. By the way, I would worry about gettin scammed from HMotorsonline they have a great reputation and I personally have seen how clean and what quality motors they ship.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeHock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18c5 - complete changeover = 4500
swap- 600-800
extras - new pumps, wires..etc.. - 200-400

thats around 6k.
Imagine spenidng 6k for a swap w\ 100k miles.

Am i safer going w\ a usdm c5 rather than jdm ,and not have to worry about getting scammed...or does it go for both ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think all those numbers are kinda high. We just sold two jdm itr engines for 4500.00 and that included the correct wire harness, throttle bracket, kenji ecu, newly installed (last year) timing belt, water pump, exedy clutch's, misc gaskets and a fresh tune from the dealership. Engines ran like champs. Best thing was they were complete drop in swaps.

My point is look around find someone reputable and you will find a good deal. If at all possible try and buy more than one engine at a time...find two or three others wanting to do the same swap. Companys will generally work with you if you say "yeah we want four of those".

*EDIT* BTW they also came with dyno charts.