I did a search and could only find 1 thread on drilled and slotted, in that post they tended to lean toward the slotted rotor. I was wondering if any of you guys have any experience with any of the 3 types.

Which is the most effective?

Thanks,
Chris

 

blanks are best.

Drilled crack under extreme use, and only have holes to allow gasses from the pads to escape, and pads no longer gas, so they are not needed.

Sloted, they will ruin your pads.

 

I would stay with the brembo blanks( thats what I have) with the drilled and slotted ones they lead to faster pad wear and even warping under heavy breaking and even heard of somepeople cracking pads...if u are gonna go slotted or drilled becareful and make sure that they are really the brembo ones and not just blanks that some machine guy drilled or slotted

 

i would use slotted on the front and drilled in the back. thats what i was told by a friend who is a race car driver. has drove in scca, 12 hours of sebring and alot of other things. thats what i run and it works fine for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blanks are best.

Drilled crack under extreme use, and only have holes to allow gasses from the pads to escape, and pads no longer gas, so they are not needed.

Sloted, they will ruin your pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Extreme use. That seems to be the key! If you are just going for some bling on your daily drive, it won't matter. If you are doing autoX every weekend, you might want to heed the advice of the masters. I can go a whole week without ever hardly using the breaks on my highway commute to work, so I'm leaning towards either slotted or drilled Brembo when I upgrade the rotors, but strictly for looks. Or I may go for a big-break kit (If I ever get a paycheck again). They will last longer than my G2.

 

i've owned my brembo slotted/crossdrilled for about a year and i've already warped the front rotors from day to day commutes and occasional street/freeway speeding and cornering. my pads are also toasted, those rotors really eat em up. I was using semi-metalics and i dont reccomend them for that type of rotor. My buddy however, uses the same rotors w/ organics w/ better results. anyways the point is, regardless of what peoples opinions are, i have noticed better stopping power w/ the rotors @ the expense of premature wear all around. But im a firm believer that the proper combonation of parts can always be harmonized and balanced out. I've also been told but havnt researched or attempted, that carbon fiber pads are well-suited for slotted/c-drilled because the design keeps the pads cool. I used to use c-fiber pads w/ regular blanks and after hard braking they would go soft. food for thought

 

Thanks, so if i did go drilled or slotted, than slotted rotors with high quality pads would do the best over the blank rotor with a high quality pad?

 

Get some Autozone blanks. They're cheap, good quality and come with a 90 day warranty.

 

I would choose either blanks or slotted. Ive heard of cross drilled rotors cracking, although i doubt our hondas/acuras yeild enough heat to do that. Im currently running slotted rotors with ss brakelines, and axis pads, loving it. stops hella better.

peace,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iwhichisme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would choose either blanks or slotted. Ive heard of cross drilled rotors cracking, although i doubt our hondas/acuras yeild enough heat to do that. Im currently running slotted rotors with ss brakelines, and axis pads, loving it. stops hella better.

peace,</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have seen our hondas/acuras with bright red rotors on basic lapping days.

Blanks, don't bother with drilled or slotted. Its not going to help you, especially for daily driving.

 

i'm running brembo blanks and axxis ultimates and i love them. when i mash the pedal. i come to a stop. i've avoided a couple rear ends already. good thing it was in the dry on a hot day with good tires too.

BTW for street/track cobaltfriction's rotors and GT-sport pads have been rated higher than the brembo and axxis ultimate combo.. cobalts rotors cool much much better and are harder to warp than the brembo blanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Blanks, don't bother with drilled or slotted. Its not going to help you, especially for daily driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, i've also heard there are a lot more problems with slotted/drilled. Why not just stick with something more reliable? Isn't that what honda is all about

 

i've had cross drilled and slotted for over 2 years with axxis pads...no problem here and have some track use to it doesn't really matter what you get since your a daily driver....the questioni've always had is if cross drilled is so bad then why do lambos and ferrari's have them stock? and thsoe are supposely race cars right?

 

i've done things with my daily driver on the street that's comprable to track-time. dude,
what do you want? do you want over-excessive braking power? or a better than ordinary braking setup? You have to sit down and get a reality on this, if all you ever do is intake/exhaust/headers and race around from light to light and have some fun on the freeway from time to time, then brembo blanks w/ a good pad like axxis would suit you just fine. Now seriously, DONT DREAM! take into consideration your driving habits and goals with your car. For me, i'm not the best driver at all times, and having the setup i use has saved me from a couple collisions. sometimes i get crazy and take risky chances and i need the stopping power that i have. slotted and c-drilled with stainless steel brake lines. And i have goals for forced induction, driving me to prep the car. So with all that in mind, what are you really gonna do with your car?

`Standerd moding = get blanks w/ good pad.
`Mild application = slotted w/ stainless steel brake lines and accomidating pads and/or big brake kit.(crossdrilled is unessacery in my opinion)
`Serious application = multi-piston caliper setup w/ accomidating rotors brake lines and pads.

(always research, keep learning, eventually you'll know what you need and want)


DAMN THAT WAS LONG! <U></U> <U></U>

 

blanks.

 

Blanks with a good set of pads...

 

all you realy need are blanks so save yourself the money and get those. slotted or drilled typically cost a bit more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverDc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've had cross drilled and slotted for over 2 years with axxis pads...no problem here and have some track use to it doesn't really matter what you get since your a daily driver....the questioni've always had is if cross drilled is so bad then why do lambos and ferrari's have them stock? and thsoe are supposely race cars right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

and it starts... ok first off. have u seen the size of their rotors?? yes they are huge. the only way to increase braking power is to increase friction, namely by increasing surface area.. when you cross drill or slot you are removing surface area.. now if you were to go wiht a big brake upgrade that uses crossdrilled/slotted rotors, you will still end up having more surface area. the reason ferrari's lambo's, porsche have then is because they are all "track" cars.. so frequent 140mph- 40mph stops are expected. this is where the slotting cross/drilling comes into play.. but thats not what acually cools the rotor, they play in it is minimal.. body design, brake ducting and bigger rotors are what cool.. the crilldrilling/slotting makes using the brakes more linear and even. more control.

 

The most detrimental aspect to crossdrilled rotors is the decreased mass of the rotor. Since it's basically a heatsink, removing mass reduces it's effectiveness plus the fact that it is inherently weaker makes it a poor choice if you want your rotors to last awhile. Plus they are more expensive anyway.

Really, the only case comes down to slotted vs blanks. I have found that slotted rotors on the front improve wet braking ability with certain pads. Maybe it was my pads I had before with my oem rotors but I had a huge lag time in the rain from when I applied the braks to when they actually started working. I switched to slotted rotors and that problem immediately went away. For me I like the safety factor, but hate the cost. When these wear out I may see how the Cobalt GT-Sport pads work in the rain with blanks.

 

I could be mistaken but I thought the concept in heatsinks is infact to increase surface area for more surface cooling rather than removing mass. This sort of explains for the elaborate fins on today's cpu heatsinks and monster fans :D

Drilling holes actually increases the surface area (whilst removing mass from the rotor).


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rapid_roy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The most detrimental aspect to crossdrilled rotors is the decreased mass of the rotor. Since it's basically a heatsink, removing mass reduces it's effectiveness plus the fact that it is inherently weaker makes it a poor choice if you want your rotors to last awhile. Plus they are more expensive anyway.

Really, the only case comes down to slotted vs blanks. I have found that slotted rotors on the front improve wet braking ability with certain pads. Maybe it was my pads I had before with my oem rotors but I had a huge lag time in the rain from when I applied the braks to when they actually started working. I switched to slotted rotors and that problem immediately went away. For me I like the safety factor, but hate the cost. When these wear out I may see how the Cobalt GT-Sport pads work in the rain with blanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i agree. blanks. i think you can get Brembo blank for a good price at
http://www.collettimotorsports.com. i dunno if it still up. but good price.

Ron

 

ever since i got my blanks from x-drilled my braking WENT DOWN!!
i dont know why -- everyone here says that its the same or better braking with blanks but i hate my setup--

im gonna get stainless lines then a new master cyld and see what happens-- if no improvement them im going back to drilled rotors

 

why would drilling a hole in a rotor increase surface area? show me some math, and then ill beleive you.

 

I dunno man...Sound like there is a lot of skepticism surrounding cross drilled rotors. I have had my Brembo's on for almost a year now and hhad them re surfaced once. I race a couple of times a week on the street with occasional canyon running and the only problem I had was with some ceramic pads, they totally ate that shiet...I went to axxis metal masters, and havent had any problems since...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntEGNYC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I could be mistaken but I thought the concept in heatsinks is infact to increase surface area for more surface cooling rather than removing mass. This sort of explains for the elaborate fins on today's cpu heatsinks and monster fans :D

Drilling holes actually increases the surface area (whilst removing mass from the rotor).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

There are 2 factors involved. The mass and the surface area.

The mass absorbs the heat, and the surface area removes the heat from the system. In order to avoid brake fade the rotor must remove heat from the pads/caliper/fluid. How long it takes to dissipate that heat is not as important, what is more important is how much heat the rotor can absorb before it boils the fluid.

In other words, of the 2 factors, mass is more important than surface area. It's also not worth sacrificing strength for surface area either. Your best bet will always be a larger, solid rotor.