even MORE weight reduction!!!
alright pplz. i've reduced the weight of my DA to my ability... now i want to take out the a/c... i need steps on how to do that... i've already taken out the panels in the rear, seats,seatbelts, ALL the tar, and mayb sum otha b/s i haven't really needed... i WUZ thinking about the rear windshield wiper... but that's a neccessity i think i'll still need... anyway... i need the steps to take out the a/c and i needa know if it's hard... thanks members. hope to hear from ya'll asap.
If you've taken out all that fat, you could probably figure out how the AC comes off.
Step 1: Remove belt.
Step 2: Take the AC compressor off.
Step 3: Take the lines off.
Step 1: Remove belt.
Step 2: Take the AC compressor off.
Step 3: Take the lines off.
It is extremely easy to remove. I can't give you a step by step because I took mine out over a year ago and no longer have the car. Just unbolt the compressor, condensor, and all related lines (assuming you know what and where these are). Follow every line until you get to the firewall and remove everything. Be sure to take off the bracket holding the compressor to the block and also the ac fan (it's the smaller one mounted on the right (driver) side of the radiator. Good luck.
Oh yeah....It is illegal to discharge freon into the atmosphere so first you'll need to take your car to any basic car/tire shop and have them discharge it for you. It cost me like 20 bucks. This is assuming you have freon in there anyways, if not don't worry about it.
honda's don't come with freon in them, it is one of the other non-toxic refrigerants. Don't remember which. i let mine out by jamming a screw driver in the low pressure spout, and then used one in the high pressure spout to control the flow...it spit all over the engine bay and left a slight film everywhere, so I wouldn't go apeshit with it and just have some patience when letting the refrigerant out. And remember to do this before taking off ANY lines!!!!
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hondas before 94 should have R-12 or freon, after 94 they should come with r-134, an easy way to know is look at the service fittings, if they look like bicycle valves with threads then they are "most likely" R-12 if they look like quick releases they are most likely R-134. This is the most common thing to look for, I have seen it differently.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iLUVmySH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it really worth it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you do not mind sweating while driving or in traffic then I would not see why not.
If you do not mind sweating while driving or in traffic then I would not see why not.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PiNoY GsR RaCeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you do not mind sweating while driving or in traffic then I would not see why not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that way..he's doing even more weight reduction but losing some water weight (vaporizing...even though some is soaked in between his *** crack and his skid marks)
If you do not mind sweating while driving or in traffic then I would not see why not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that way..he's doing even more weight reduction but losing some water weight (vaporizing...even though some is soaked in between his *** crack and his skid marks)
lol. thank you for all your comments... but tell me this... is it really worth it to keep an a/c when only the heater works... i turn the dial to the blue side... hot air comes out.. =*(, summer or not, i don't think it's worth the weight.
save the a/c and get on atkins :D
wanna shed more weight?
get a haircut, clean shaven face and drive barefoot. who needs shoes....
if you need them, at least toss out the laces or wear velcro.
wanna shed more weight?
get a haircut, clean shaven face and drive barefoot. who needs shoes....
if you need them, at least toss out the laces or wear velcro.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nexus da9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol. thank you for all your comments... but tell me this... is it really worth it to keep an a/c when only the heater works... i turn the dial to the blue side... hot air comes out.. =*(, summer or not, i don't think it's worth the weight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not worth the weight to me either. Especially if it's your daily driver. On a dedicated track car then it's logical. Right now I hate driving my beater EF because I need to fix the A/C and this heat sucks!!
Not worth the weight to me either. Especially if it's your daily driver. On a dedicated track car then it's logical. Right now I hate driving my beater EF because I need to fix the A/C and this heat sucks!!
all you comedians should keep your day jobs.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nexus da9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol. thank you for all your comments... but tell me this... is it really worth it to keep an a/c when only the heater works... i turn the dial to the blue side... hot air comes out.. =*(, summer or not, i don't think it's worth the weight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're absolutely right. If it's not working, take it out, save the weight and clean up the engine compartment, making plenty of room for a nice turbo
Have had 3 DA tegs, three of them had non operational A/C systems for different reasons. Tried to recharge my first one just to have it run out the next day, then had it diagnosed and fixed costing me $220. (that was back in 1999), the next few, I just took the crap out, and drove around with the windows down, and without a shirt........got to work, put on my shirt, and no one was any wiser to me sweating on my commute
It's really pretty strait forward. Just get the R-12 taken out and then have at it. I would start with taking out the lines that run in front of your motor then take the bumper off and get the lines that run in front of your radiator. Then your going to have to take out your radiator to get the condenser out. so make sure you put radiator fluid and water back in your car once you put the radiator back in. the compressor is held on by 4 bolts and you can take off the bulky thing that holds it on to the block too. Along with the line tensioner. and get the line in and the return line that goes through the fire wall. Everything in the system is hooked together so it's pretty easy to know what to take out. Just don't take off PS lines by accident. but it's really easy to know the diff. The PS line behind the bumper is the one that has the cooling fins on it. Good Luck. Not that you need it since it's really easy.
I remember when they built the FD3 (93-95) Mazda RX7 the engineers at Mazda went so crazy to reduce weight they drilled holes in the foot pedals and shortened the the spark plug wires lol like how much does an extra inch or two of spark plug wires weigh


