alright, my distib is being gay. we have done every possible test for power on my coil. there is power going in and coming out with the ignition on and even when the car is cranking. i have a new cap and rotor. but for some unknown reason my car will not start. there is no reason for this to be happening there is no spark... but power is coming out of the coil. but not jumping the coil to make spark. this is going agenst all laws of electricity. the coil has power and when we tried to make it manually jump the coil we get nothing but we still have a 12.86 +- oh the ohm meter. all these tests were performed by my uncle and father both licenced electricians. whats the deal??!

 

Does the ICM trigger wire pulse at all while your cranking the car?

 

ive replaced the whole housing of the distrib, i was thinking about the icm trigger isnt getting a feed, and that my wire harness is shot. for ***** and giggles im putting another harness in cause ive done everything else.

 

try a different coil, just because it tests out ok doesn't always mean it is ok, and usually the ICM and coil effect eachother so if one goes bad count on the other one going bad too. I bought a brand new dizzy from Distributor King, for my GSR it was like 200 bucks off ebay, best investment ever

 

I might be able to walk you through the diagnostic procedures, but first I need to know what year, model, and engine we're talking about.

 

ive tried 3 different coils and 2 icms. there is no way all 3 of them are blown. when tested i mean power was running through the coils, we took our ohm meter to auto zone and did a side by side test on a new one and the one i was using.both came out fine. i see no need to buy another dizzy, ive taken them off of running cars and it still will not produce spark. the only thing left is the harness. i made up a new harness and i got like 5 plugs to finish up on and im gonna give it a crank. its probibly not going to start but now i know it wouldent be the harness. but hopefully it is so i can drive my car, its a 93 civic dx hatch with the stock non vtec harness, with a 99 ex block and a 95 si head and dizzy. vtec is wired through the current harness using the pins the vtec wiring was suposed to be held in. and to make sure i took all my vtec wireing out of my harness so i wasent grounding anything out to be on the safe side.

 

i just changed the wire harness and it still dosent start. im getting so annoyed

 

are you sure its spark related?

 

It's not something silly like a broken cam or t-belt is it?

 

yup thats what i would check, it your dist even spinning. then i would check grounds, because if 1 ground isnt hooked up or is getting a bad connection then it wont fire, check valve cover, tranny, and t stat ground, take them off and clean them

 

the cam is fine, the timing is perfect, and yes the dist spins.. there is no spark coming from the coil. even when we manually collapsed the coil it dint spark. and THERE WAS power in the coil we had the ohm meter on it the whole time. we had spark for a few cycles of the engine when we came up with an idea then it went dead again. none of this makes sence. like i said its defiing laws of electricity. if you have power and collapse a connection then reconect the circut there has to be a spark, and there is not. ive also done all the grounds. even put another ground line on the dist and ecu.

 

did you do a motor swap?..do you have the correct ecu for your motor?..checked all your fuses?..checked all your grounds?...do you have the correct distributor for your motor?...did you hook up all the wires correctly?

 

yeah it was a swap 95si into 93dx. the car ran for a week b4 this started to happen. i would shut the car off. then it wouldent start. so i would pop the hood and wiggle wires and it would start again, i did that a total of 3 times and the 4th time i had to be towed home and here i am baffled. all the grounds are connected, its the right ecu but it wouldent matter they are all the same ecu's minus the vtec pins. all the connections were right if they wernt my car wouldent of run for that week. and yes its the correct distrib. vtec cars have different mounting bolts then non vtec anyways so you really cant screw that up.

 

my bro has a 92 civic and one day his distributor started making noise(it was the bearings going bad)but then it finally wouldnt start.so we tried a new cap/rotor and that didnt do anything so we called distributorking.com and got a new dis had it installed and it runs fine now..maybe you need a complete new distributor

 

The small ground wire at the t-stat housing is in good condition, right? (it may be small, but it's important) Do you have a known good ECU to try?

 

yah the ground on the thermo houseing is good, gonna wire brush all my grounds tomarrow. ive been looking for a s15 light to pop up for the ecu (thats suposed to pop up after 20 seconds of cranking and no sparking) and i havent seen it yet. i have 2 ecus and neither of them change anything. my dad is trying to jump the coil with a hot wire to see if anything is going through the coil. is the ICM before or after the coil, as in what does the power go through first then to the cap. my aim sn is SlivicSLPR if you got aol or im hit me up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchedzex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my dad is trying to jump the coil with a hot wire to see if anything is going through the coil. is the ICM before or after the coil, as in what does the power go through first then to the cap. my aim sn is SlivicSLPR if you got aol or im hit me up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The coil should always have battery voltage with the key on. Then the igniter will ground the coil to produce a spark.

What does your check engine light do? When you turn the key to the run possition, does it come on for two seconds and then go out?

 

Hatchedzex,

Remove the distributor cap, rotor, and dust shield. On the coil, you'll find two wires. One is marked + and the other is marked - . Disconnect the NEG wire from the coil completely. Now connect an ordinary test light to the battery POS terminal.
while cranking the engine, touch the test light to the NEG wire you disconnected from the coil. The light should blink indicating that the ignitor is pulsing the ground to the coil as it should. If this is the case, then the ignitor, computer, and distributor are all doing their job. You've most likely got a problem with your coil, or your rotor might be defective. If the light does not blink while cranking the engine, then you've got problems in your PCM, distributor, or ignitor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmrvi1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hatchedzex,

Remove the distributor cap, rotor, and dust shield. On the coil, you'll find two wires. One is marked + and the other is marked - . Disconnect the NEG wire from the coil completely. Now connect an ordinary test light to the battery POS terminal.
while cranking the engine, touch the test light to the NEG wire you disconnected from the coil. The light should blink indicating that the ignitor is pulsing the ground to the coil as it should. If this is the case, then the ignitor, computer, and distributor are all doing their job. You've most likely got a problem with your coil, or your rotor might be defective. If the light does not blink while cranking the engine, then you've got problems in your PCM, distributor, or ignitor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

alright if they do not blink whats the best u think i should do. but a new dist? to be honest to get all this **** out of the way im willing to spend the money lol and PCM? pluse control?. the distributor should be fine this is the second housing ive tried. thaks fer your help im gonna test asap tomarrow. crossing fingers

 

alright we did the test light procedure, the light does not blink. to buy a new distrib is like 150 bucks. new coil and things like that is gonna be in the hundred+ dollar range if i buy seperatly so i figure buying a new dizzy is the best way to go, is there a possible chance that my ecu is screwed?.. i doubt it but just a thought. im going to order a dizzy tomarrow. thanks especially to CMRVI1

 

hey man my car is doing the exact same thing i dont have an engine swap either it is a 93 ls and i was at discount and tried to start it is just cranks and cranks but no spart ive been trying to figure it out put new coil in my dizzy and changed spark plugs wires and cap still nothing changed ecu nothing let me know if it is your dizzy .... do you u have a zex nitrous kit on your car?? well let me know

 

i didnt see it but did you check for spark be either getting a light test or see if it would jump a gap?

 

yea i checked for spark