I have a 92 cx hatch and am getting ready to tear out the massive 70 Hp beast of a motor for a B20z., I just have a few questions for making good Hp while still having daily drivability..

Should I use an Ls manifold or go with a Skunk2 Manifold, or for that matter a Type r manifold?

Ive just read that the Ls manifolds seem a little restrictive.

Also use the Ls ecu?

Anybody who reads this has any inof you could give me on how to make some good power to the ground WITHOUT going cr-vtec, or boost (this is my daily and I have another car Im pouring money into) please let me know....

Thanks.

 

Do you plan to go B20 vtec?

 

He stated that he's not going the crvtec route,

to answer your questions, if you want this car to be a daily driver and you have another car you are building, I assume you won't want to rev the **** out of the b20.

I am in the same boat as you, and Im actually using the stock b20z manifold with the "power chamber" on top. I've seen good results from that, it supposedly tunes out the dip in the lower-mid power band. ALso, this way you don't have to spend more money and go through the hassle of swapping manifolds.

Yes, you will need a LS ecu... get a fpr and tune it.

Theres really not much you can do thats worth while on the b20z, I would just leave it stock internally. WIth bigger cams, your idle will suffer (which is the reason why honda created vtec in the first placce).

The motor will pull like a **** w/ a good tranny, just keep it stock and enjoy that honda oem torquey goodness.

should be a high 13 sec car on slicks if you know how to drive.


Modified by SilverCIVIC96 at 5:33 PM 4/30/2004

 

Hey I appreciate the info.

 

i have a skunk2 manifold on mine with intake header and exhaust, pulls real good, dont know about 13's but hey...

anyway if your lookin for something mild try the crower 62403 cams and some bolt ons... you should be happy..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverCIVIC96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He stated that he's not going the crvtec route,

to answer your questions, if you want this car to be a daily driver and you have another car you are building, I assume you won't want to rev the **** out of the b20.

I am in the same boat as you, and Im actually using the stock b20z manifold with the "power chamber" on top. I've seen good results from that, it supposedly tunes out the dip in the lower-mid power band. ALso, this way you don't have to spend more money and go through the hassle of swapping manifolds.

Yes, you will need a LS ecu... get a fpr and tune it.

Theres really not much you can do thats worth while on the b20z, I would just leave it stock internally. WIth bigger cams, your idle will suffer (which is the reason why honda created vtec in the first placce).

The motor will pull like a **** w/ a good tranny, just keep it stock and enjoy that honda oem torquey goodness.

should be a high 13 sec car if you know how to drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean there is nothing worthwhile you can do on a B20z? and you can go as large as crower 404's without a bad idle, you can do higher comp pistons, and PnP head, and a stock B20 is not a 13 sec car.

 

the itr intake will not bolt up. I used a skunk2 On my B20z cause i could not find a ls one at the time. I dont have anything to base on since I had the 1.6 sohc in my ek HB before and droped in the b20z so I dont know if there was an advantage in manifolds.

 

aebs manifold is sweet! And it is cheap.

 

what I mean by nothing worthwhile is that if you are going to spend the money upgrading the b20z, you might as well put that money into a vtec head. You will end up ahead, just ask any engine builder.

Sure cams are great, but they'll give you mostly top end, sacraficing idle quality in the process. My purpose for the b20z is a torque car that can lug the car around at lower rpm's, not track.

PS. don't think aebs makes a manifold for the LS head.

 

If I go with those crower LS cams (#62403) would you recommend upgrading any valvetrain components in the b20?

I would like to go a bit further than mild but a low to mid 14 second hatch is fine as a daily...

How well do these motors handle the bottle?
Thanks

 

the 603s require the valve springs be replaced. your stock springs will not hold up. ill be putting in 404s in my b20z and the idle shouldnt be that bad. the more in displacement you go with aggressive cams, the less you notice them.

they can handle "the bottle" but i would only suggest very small amounts of Nitrous to be used. the cylinder walls on B20s are weaker than ones in all the other Honda motors. sure you could probably hit the "NAWZ" a couple times, but soon something bad will happen

 

take the money you would spend on cams, springs and retainers and just go Vtec. GSR head, GSR mani, GSR ecu and GSR cams tuned on a b20z make good power to 7800rpm. We are getting high 13s out of that set up in a daily driven DC2 that still has AC, and power steering. The set up has been in the car for almost 3 years now.

 

No non-vtec love

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the money you would spend on cams, springs and retainers and just go Vtec. </TD></TR></TABLE>

honestly ive done the math alot, it comes out to be about the same $$ as a basic vtec setup..... the only plus to non vtec is theres alot less hassle, you dont have to hack up your old distributor or buy a new one, you dont have to worry about valve clearance, dont need to get alot of extra parts that often dont come with the head like the vtec solenoid ect.... im still not sure what i want to do... ive been going back and forth on this for years now...


what kinda weight were those dc2's and more info on their setups please!!

 

damn why is everyone so **** on pushing VTEC to be the only way to go if you have a b18a/b or b20b/z block? now if your gunning to be the fastest then yes LS/VTEC would be the best way to go. mildly built b20 w/ basic bolt on + cams can hold its on against a b20/vtec (stock head). its ALL personal preference. like coke & sprite, both are different but get the job done.

 

well, if it takes the same amount of money to for a extensive non-vtec build vs. a basic vtec setup to acheive the same power figures, why not do the vtec... and retain the drivability down low? The point of vtec is to give you good low end, and turn on the power when needed in the higher rpm's

I don't get it when all you people say, "no love for non-vtec", sure, it's great, and much simpler than a vtec set up, hell, Im keeping my b20z stock too. But look at the situation objectively, and you'll see that it is much easier to make 190hp w/ a b20vtec than a non-vtec. Im not hating, just stating the facts...


Modified by SilverCIVIC96 at 3:58 AM 5/17/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverCIVIC96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not do the vtec... and retain the drivability down low?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the idle isnt bad at all if you bump the CR slightly. a 9.5 CR engine with 404s idles like stock. 403s idle like stock anyway

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverCIVIC96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The point of vtec is to give you good low end, and turn on the power when needed in the higher rpm'</TD></TR></TABLE>

With crower 404s, I made hands down more low end torque than a modified ITR and GSR that dynoed at the same shop... on a B18B.

VTEC = idle / gas lobe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20zhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Should I use an Ls manifold or go with a Skunk2 Manifold, or for that matter a Type r manifold?

Also use the Ls ecu?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

james,did you get the motor yet?

you'll need a 94-95 ls 5sp ecu, and if you can get one cheap a ls manifold will work fine, thats what terry used on his b20 92-5 hatch,but i would think a skunk2 would be better.

remember a type r intake manifold only fits pr3 heads (b16,b17,b18c5)

thats why i bought a skunk2 for my gsr head, a p72 head

btw, i burnt/bent some valves at the track tuesday (got ferrea valves on the way, and arp studs and a whole lot more(skunk2 cams)

good luck with your build up james hope to see the rb25 running soon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20zhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 92 cx hatch and am getting ready to tear out the massive 70 Hp beast of a motor for a B20z., I just have a few questions for making good Hp while still having daily drivability..

Should I use an Ls manifold or go with a Skunk2 Manifold, or for that matter a Type r manifold?

Ive just read that the Ls manifolds seem a little restrictive.

Also use the Ls ecu?

Anybody who reads this has any inof you could give me on how to make some good power to the ground WITHOUT going cr-vtec, or boost (this is my daily and I have another car Im pouring money into) please let me know....

Thanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Only the stock B20 manifold, the LS manifolds, and the Skunk2 will bolt to the motor. I don't know how well the stock B20 manifold works. So I can offer no comment on it. LS manifolds work well enough and are what most people use. Just steer clear of the smaller 1990-1993 LS manifold. If you go LS, use a 1994+ manifold. The Skunk2 manifold works quite well and is probably the best choice for this motor.

2. As far as bone-stock ECUs go, the LS P75 is the one to use. The 1992-1993 P72 is almost exactly the same. But the 1990-1991 ECU is only used by 1988-1991 owners who don't know how to wire.

3. Basic bolt-ons help ALOT with this motor. And you can also expect to see gains through porting and/or cams.

 

I threw away my B20z manifold...just cleaning house and no one wanted it. I still have a 96 LS manifold though, if you are interested and decide to go that way.

Anyone know if the b20z manifold with the chamber actually helps the 3k torque dip? I always though maybe I should weld that chamber on my skunk2 and see, but for me that's an expensive experiment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darrinbrewer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

james,did you get the motor yet?

you'll need a 94-95 ls 5sp ecu, and if you can get one cheap a ls manifold will work fine, thats what terry used on his b20 92-5 hatch,but i would think a skunk2 would be better.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, skunk 2 would probably be better, but LS is way cheaper. I'm pretty happy with the way my(terry's) car runs, I just wonder how much of a difference the Endyne ECU that I have makes.

 

For those in doubt

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=818820

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

 

and you still didnt get as much power as you would have with a Vtec head. If you like the nonVtec heads so much I have about ten of them come and get them. I just pitch them in the trash. If you dont like Vtec why not not just buy a Neon.

 

If you guys want to start comparing, let me join the party...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=595138