my brother has a 89 std hatch..he first swapped in a zc..made the necessary

modifications to make the zc run properly(wiring etc... etc.),then that blew up so

he swapped in a d16a6 and again he made all of the necessary adjustments to

make that motor work properly....now we installed a 1st gen b16a into his car..he

purchased a hasport sub harness..to make wiring a little easier..

for some reason we cant get the damn thing to fire up..it was running fine in the donor car 3 days ago and now we cant get it to run..it seems to have no spark at all..i stuck a screw driver in the plug wire and grounded it against some bare metal and no spark..i then took a plug stuck it in the plug wire and grounded it and still no spark..then we switched plug wires to see if he ones that came with the motor work for somereason and stil no spark?????...he had to do some minor wiring to the big plug on the distrubitor but nothing major and from what we can tell everything is fine wiring wise cause all of the wires match up and all of the pins in the plug matchup???..he also had to do some modifications to the wiring to the ecu...im not sure but i think he had to add a knock sensor,vtec and convert some other things to si chassis pinouts...anyone have any ideas?


edit: i forgot to mention..the car is supposed to have 2 o2 sensors and neither of them are installed..this might make a diffrence but i dont know..i thought the car should atleast start up without them but im not 100% sure

 

yes...i started off with a 89 std dpfi hatch...then went to dohc zc and did all the wiring to convert from dpfi to mpfi and then that blew up so i put in a d16a6 (the only thing i had to do was run the wires i had going to the zc's external cam sensor to the si's distributor) for the zc to a6 swap.
now i just recently picked up another hatch with the B16A in it already running,and i swapped it into my car.. (this was like 3-5 days ago that the motor was running)

i did all the nessecary wiring modifications for the si to b16 swap ..i also picked up a EFSIVTEC subharness from hasport to make things a little easier. plugged everything in and what not and then i :

did my ecu wiring...
- ran secondary o2 sensor (even though i dont have any) to pin C8
- ran VTEC solenoid to pin A8
- ran VTEC oil pressure to pin B5
- ran knock sensor to pin B19

as for the dizzy:
- i just matched up all the colors and wired that accordingly..but the B16 had two extra wires that i wasnt sure where they went..so i used the wires that used to be for the zc's external cam sensor, and im pretty sure thats where they go.

i have two wires that i dont know where to put them but they used to go on the back of the A6's intake mani...the like a little solenoid back there and thats where they used to go but there isnt anything like that on the B16..and i had no luck tracking them down to find out where they went..one is BLU/YEL and the other BLK/YEL. i was looking at my PR3 pinout sheet and it says that A11 (BLU/YEL) is IACV from electronic air control valve. and this wire is loose ..and i cant figure out what the BLK/YEL one is.

this motor was in the other car running just last week..and it had no 02 sensors and no knock sensor...all that was done was the VTEC..this donor car was a DX model and the harness i got off of it is somewhat different than my STD harness.

then once everything was what we thought to be wired right..we tryed turning it over..it turned over but it wasnt firing..so we checked for spark..nothing. then we tryed using the plugs that came off of the car that was running, thinking that the napa plugs we shitty...still nothing.

so then i went over all my wiring..thinking the motor doesnt really need VTEC to run..so the wires i cut @ A8 and B5 i disconnected and tied the wires that originaly went the back..thinking i might have cut a wire that i wasnt supposed to..then i tryed again..still nothing. so i hooked up the VTEC again.

im not sure what to do at this point.

are the std,dx,si civic pinouts the same @ the ecu plugs?
because i followed the directions that came with the EFSIVTEC subharness from hasport..and this subharness is made to convert from si to b16..im thinking that the si ecu pinouts are different from the std civic ecu pinouts..the reason i bought it was to ease the process of wiring..haha yeah right. but i just considered my car a si because it was already converted to mpfi.

damn...any help would be a start. let me know what you think.

 

if you arent getting spark then one of the 2 white wires on the dizzy plug are in the wrong spot. That is the number one thing to check and make sure all those are right.. The o2's shouldnt have anything to do with the car not starting, hell it should run half decently without any o2s at all.

 

Good call.. thats what it was.

about an hour too late but thank you very much

i got it running at about 5pm and then i got rid of all the butt connectors and soldered all my connections and heat wrapped them...then adjusted the idle and what not..got it all running nice,etc. (runs rich btw, probably because of no 02 sensors yet, also smell of sulfer..rich+cat i presume) anyways..i took it for a ride around the block a few times then drove to the gas station filled it up with 93..then drove around the block a few more times..brought it up to about 7400rpms and felt a slight miss in timing so i eased off the throttle and drove it home...then i put the hood back on and went inside to get a soda then i come back out and try to start it and it wont start...what could cause this?
check engine light is on..no light in PR3 ecu (someone took it out)
im pretty sure the engine light is on becuase of the 02 sensors missing but there is no way to tell what else the light could be on for due to no light. so my plans are to get a stock PR3 computer. this PR3 im running now is chipped 4500 vtec and no rev limit. i want to get rid of it.
any ideas on why my car would not start after it ran fine for about 8 minutes then i shut it off for 2 minutes and try to start it and it wont start?
thanks

 

are you still getting spark? what are the symptoms now that it wont start?

 

ok after about an hour of waiting..i went out and started it and its started right up..but it idles kind of low..ill have to adjust that ..but does anyone know what the problem could be? i have the fan wired to the factory spot..could it be overheating?

 

anyone have any ideas?
im gonna go out and check the timing..the motor has skunk2 cam gears + ctr cams..i think the timing is advanced ..so ill set it back to stock..and then ill warm it up and check to see if both hoses are getting hot..and maybe replace the thermostat..and check to see if the fan comes on..how do i check if the coolant temp sensor works properly? (the little two prong plug on back of block)
thanks

 

if this warm start problem keep occuring check your main relay too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Die-Laughing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone have any ideas?
how do i check if the coolant temp sensor works properly? (the little two prong plug on back of block)
thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Disconnect the plug and put a jumper in it. The fan should run all the time. If it doesn't then you need to hook the fan directly up to battery and make sure it works. Get a new fan motor if it doesn't work. Check fuses and wiring if it does work.

When you get the fan running with a jumper in the temp sensor plug, remove the jumper reconnnect it to the sensor. Idle the car for a some time - the fan SHOULD come on. If it doesn't and the temp gauge is creeping up there then you can pretty much figure that the sensor is bad.

 

ok...i replaced the thermostat, checked the fan..it works but doesnt want to come on, the lower radiator hose doesnt get hot at all, yet the heater works fine and the heater hoses get hot. the idle keeps changing ..i had a steady idle for a while but then i keeps adjusting itself.? there are still no 02 sensors so its running rich as hell..but i dont really think thats a problem.
recap:
-it seems like the coolant doesnt want to flow throughout the engine, wont get hot.
-lower hose wont get hot, replaced t-stat..still no heat from lower hose.
-fan works when hooked to battery, but wont come on when plugged in.
-no 02 sensors, runs rich.
-idle adjusts itself (i adjusted it using the throttle stop and the screw on the t-body)

what the hell? could it be the water pump?
i never check the thermo switch..but i check to see if the plugs were on tight and they are. im pretty sure everything is wired right with good connections.

what are some other reasons why the motor wont get hot..or why the coolant wont flow? why wont the damn lower hose get hot? i thought it was because the thermostat was bad..but i replaced it with the same results.
any help would be great.

EDIT: also, why isnt my speedo working? this ever happen to anyone else?

 

bump for help needed..replace that water pump then let us know D-L

 

my haynes repair manual says that the upper radiator hose should be hot and the lower hose cool...did you bleed the cooling system of all air?...you should fix those problems you know you have that would help o2 sensors,etc.

 

really? its says the lower hose should be cool?hmm. yes.. i bled the air out.
yeah im gonna get the 02 sensors and some bungs tomorrow and install them, which means i have to cut holes in my apexi 4-2-1...oh well.
im also going to get a water pump.

anyone else?

 

if you water isnt flowing then its either the water pump or maybe the radiator is clogged. the reason why hte lower radiator hose is cool because the hot water flow from the upper radiator hose into the radiator, the coolant flows through getting cooled off, then goes back into the engine via lower radiator hose, so your lower radiator hose is flowing back in cooled off coolant.

what i would do is take off the upper radiator hose and see if water is getting pushed out by the water pump, if not then you know its the water pump