hey guys,

i did this swap recently and i have been reading alot! i put a h22-a4 out of a 2001 prelude into my 95 honda accord and have had nothing but codes and terrible performance! i read this in an article, is this true?

The only H22 to avoid is from the Type SH Prelude. The brilliant torque distribution system (an electronically controlled box of clutches bolted to the block that Honda calls ATTS) replaces the intermediate shaft and its mounting bracket. The engine and transmission code to avoid is H22A4 and M2U4, respectively. Again, when someone actually swaps this in functionally, let us know.


i dont know if that is my tranny code, i have to check, but its out of a 2001 prelude, i keep throwing an egr code, is there a way to fix this problem!

please help!

 

is it a base model or sh model?

 

how would i tell?

 

the h22a4 is the code for the type sh motor. do you have the sh ecu???? if not, that's probably your problem because of the transmission. it's designed differently and won't work correctly with other ecus that aren't the jdm type s ecu or the usdm type sh ecu. the atts is computer controlled.

 

the h22a4 is the code for ALL 97+ USDM h22 engines.
if it was a Type-SH it owuld not have a half shaft it would have a big bulky chunk of **** under the manifold attached to teh tranny.

 

i have the h22-a4, but am using the p-13, from a 95 prelude, is there any way to make this work?i want to keep it obd 1! and i am using a intermediate shaft to the tranny!

 

i think you need obd1 injectors, and distributor.

 

did you swap the pins for the EGR and O2 sensor?

 

i'm with cd8 for shure check out obd1 injectors

 

did the injectors already, just found out about the o2 wire and the egr wire, can you go into more depth. i know it is pin#s 6 and 11 need to be switched, any references on colors? i would also like a pin out diagram on the h22a4 ecu and the f22-b1 ecu, can you guys help?

please!!!!!!

 

ok i read online this article, i switched the pins, number 6 and 11 which were the egr and the O2 heater wire and no more engine check lighs and the car runs great. in the article it talks of wiring a AIB (air intake bypass) in. the aib opens the short, high-rpm runners in the intake mani. it say that it get added by tapping the black/yellow wire from the h22 plug, which is the wire that goes to the distributor. it says that it supplies the wire power to activate the silenoid. it says the pink signal wire from the aib goes to pinout 17 which has nothing in it right now. can you guys help, a little confussed!

 

heres the article, please READ! http://www.sportcompactcarweb....ybrid/

 

another problem, when i hook vacum to the egr, car idles rough, when i unhook car idles fine! is my egr valve bad?

 

here is a link that might help with the pin colors!!!


http://www.geocities.com/honda....html