Tein RA or Buddy Club Racing Spec Coilover?
Both cost about the same, which one would you choose/recommend and for what reasons? BTW I heard that the older Tein's had problems with leaking from the shock resovoir, are the new version fixed or is there still a chance of leaking with the Tein RA?
i'm actually thinking about getting the buddy club coilovers myself... it has the lowest drop i believe.. up to 3 inches..... but i think the teins are lighter.?....
I like Tein because of the name brand and they've been around for a long time. I've had my Tein Cs for about a year and they show no signs of leaks or any other problems.
I was thinking about the buddy clubs because they have some nice features like the double adjustability, you can adjust the ride height without disturbing the spring travel, only the Tein RS has that feature. I've never installed the B/C's but my friend told me that they are pretty heavy and don't seem to be made as well as Teins.
It's a really hard choice, but no matter which one you pick you'll be getting an excellent coilover
I was thinking about the buddy clubs because they have some nice features like the double adjustability, you can adjust the ride height without disturbing the spring travel, only the Tein RS has that feature. I've never installed the B/C's but my friend told me that they are pretty heavy and don't seem to be made as well as Teins.
It's a really hard choice, but no matter which one you pick you'll be getting an excellent coilover
Tein in Japan is like APC here in the US.
I'd look into the JIC, Apexi, Buddy Club, and Amuse coilovers. If the funds aren't there, go with a Koni Yellow's with GC coilovers, or with either Espelier or KG/MM springs.
Good luck either way.
I'd look into the JIC, Apexi, Buddy Club, and Amuse coilovers. If the funds aren't there, go with a Koni Yellow's with GC coilovers, or with either Espelier or KG/MM springs.
Good luck either way.
i bought some tein RA's...only because i got them on a great deal...if not i would have went with the buddy clubs....but both coilovers are great...if u dont use them for real track racing...just get something that works...my tein RA have very stiff settings....it was on level 12F/8R...and that was crazy stiff fro street....not i have it set on 4F/2R...much better
thanks for the replies. i guess i'm going with the buddy clubs. anyways, what do you guys think about the kg/mm race springs and koni yellow shocks setup? i want something that offers a little stiffer ride than stock but with a great improvemnet in handling performance.
its good too, the buddy clubs are cheaper than the tein ra by about 300 bucks.
its good too, the buddy clubs are cheaper than the tein ra by about 300 bucks.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JL9000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen too many rusted Teins. I don't like rusted coilovers, but that's just me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
rusted teins=made of steel
RA's, RS's=made of aluminum, therefore they dont rust.
</TD></TR></TABLE>rusted teins=made of steel
RA's, RS's=made of aluminum, therefore they dont rust.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both cost about the same, which one would you choose/recommend and for what reasons? BTW I heard that the older Tein's had problems with leaking from the shock resovoir, are the new version fixed or is there still a chance of leaking with the Tein RA?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
there were only a few cases of the faulty shocks and were warrantied. Considereing how many shocks Tein sells these days, they are a bigger company than Buddy Club and granted quality control should be better as well as their products. You have your heart set on a japanese coilover? Eibach is coming out with coilovers for the s2000. Don't expect a vast improvement in handling by upgrading the suspension. If you haven't really stretched the legs of the stock suspension, you'll probably do more harm by changing the spring rates and shocks to something very different. I would run the koni yellows and some sort of good spring rates and you'll get a nice package, not slammed to the ground but a good handling and affordable package.
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there were only a few cases of the faulty shocks and were warrantied. Considereing how many shocks Tein sells these days, they are a bigger company than Buddy Club and granted quality control should be better as well as their products. You have your heart set on a japanese coilover? Eibach is coming out with coilovers for the s2000. Don't expect a vast improvement in handling by upgrading the suspension. If you haven't really stretched the legs of the stock suspension, you'll probably do more harm by changing the spring rates and shocks to something very different. I would run the koni yellows and some sort of good spring rates and you'll get a nice package, not slammed to the ground but a good handling and affordable package.
vapor, honestly i just want to drop the car an inch or so. i am happy with the handling of my stock s2000 and i do not track my car whatsoever. i will also be running my stock wheels(i love the look of a s2000 dropped on some oem alloys). anyways, i figured i'd get the coilovers due to the height adjustability feature and for the reason that japanese coilovers offer good quality.
anyways, would the performance improve from running something like kg/mm race springs with koni yellows? i am running koni yellows with neuspeed sport springs on my 94 accord and the ride is perfect, i just don't know how they are with the s2000. vapor, you seem to know your stuff, what springs would you recommend that offers a good drop and works great with koni yellows?
all input is appreciated.
anyways, would the performance improve from running something like kg/mm race springs with koni yellows? i am running koni yellows with neuspeed sport springs on my 94 accord and the ride is perfect, i just don't know how they are with the s2000. vapor, you seem to know your stuff, what springs would you recommend that offers a good drop and works great with koni yellows?
all input is appreciated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vapor, honestly i just want to drop the car an inch or so. i am happy with the handling of my stock s2000 and i do not track my car whatsoever. i will also be running my stock wheels(i love the look of a s2000 dropped on some oem alloys). anyways, i figured i'd get the coilovers due to the height adjustability feature and for the reason that japanese coilovers offer good quality.
anyways, would the performance improve from running something like kg/mm race springs with koni yellows? i am running koni yellows with neuspeed sport springs on my 94 accord and the ride is perfect, i just don't know how they are with the s2000. vapor, you seem to know your stuff, what springs would you recommend that offers a good drop and works great with koni yellows?
all input is appreciated.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
in your case, I wouldn't do the coilovers b/c you wont adjust them often and will be happy with one setting. The koni's have a lower perch so you can ride lower and spring choice will be your preference in terms of rates and ride quality. I would venture towards a good manufactuer for the springs. I don't want to sound like an eibach ***** but their springs are good quality coming from a company that specializes in springs. I'd say get in touch with vtecvoodoo on eibach spring options to run with the koni yellows.
anyways, would the performance improve from running something like kg/mm race springs with koni yellows? i am running koni yellows with neuspeed sport springs on my 94 accord and the ride is perfect, i just don't know how they are with the s2000. vapor, you seem to know your stuff, what springs would you recommend that offers a good drop and works great with koni yellows?
all input is appreciated.
</TD></TR></TABLE>in your case, I wouldn't do the coilovers b/c you wont adjust them often and will be happy with one setting. The koni's have a lower perch so you can ride lower and spring choice will be your preference in terms of rates and ride quality. I would venture towards a good manufactuer for the springs. I don't want to sound like an eibach ***** but their springs are good quality coming from a company that specializes in springs. I'd say get in touch with vtecvoodoo on eibach spring options to run with the koni yellows.
Razor,
It might disappoint you but there's a reason why a lot of the guys who track their S2000 (seriously; not so seriously) don't run the boy racer Tein/Buddy Club coilovers. It's either stay stock, go with Koni Yellows, or spend the $$$$ on Ohlins and the like.
They find the $1500JDMs too stiff even if you adjust them to soft. And honestly, if you live the same kind of lifestyle as I do, there's simply no time or desire to mess around with suspension settings and get alignments each time you adjust the ride height. I want set once and drive.
Based on what I've read, and I've read lots, going coilovers is merely a necessary evil that trades off Honda engineering's balanced stock tuning to a lowered setup that's very amateur (but it looks a lot better since the wheel gap is gone especially if you're running bigger wheels like myself).
I'm running Ground Control adjustable coilovers (340F/380R) on the stock Showas and many others on the board are doing this as well. I have put on about 30K on this setup and it still feels as good as day one. The stiffness feels very similar to stock and I reeled in some of the oversteer bite to a more neutral and progressive setup with S-03s/bigger front sway bar.
If you have the cash to spend on the $1500+ on JDMs, go for it because on the street it ain't really gonna matter.
But for overall feel and track duty, the closer to stock softness of the GC setup has received positive reviews. Perhaps that extral $1K in your pocket can go to other goodies.
Good luck
It might disappoint you but there's a reason why a lot of the guys who track their S2000 (seriously; not so seriously) don't run the boy racer Tein/Buddy Club coilovers. It's either stay stock, go with Koni Yellows, or spend the $$$$ on Ohlins and the like.
They find the $1500JDMs too stiff even if you adjust them to soft. And honestly, if you live the same kind of lifestyle as I do, there's simply no time or desire to mess around with suspension settings and get alignments each time you adjust the ride height. I want set once and drive.
Based on what I've read, and I've read lots, going coilovers is merely a necessary evil that trades off Honda engineering's balanced stock tuning to a lowered setup that's very amateur (but it looks a lot better since the wheel gap is gone especially if you're running bigger wheels like myself).
I'm running Ground Control adjustable coilovers (340F/380R) on the stock Showas and many others on the board are doing this as well. I have put on about 30K on this setup and it still feels as good as day one. The stiffness feels very similar to stock and I reeled in some of the oversteer bite to a more neutral and progressive setup with S-03s/bigger front sway bar.
If you have the cash to spend on the $1500+ on JDMs, go for it because on the street it ain't really gonna matter.
But for overall feel and track duty, the closer to stock softness of the GC setup has received positive reviews. Perhaps that extral $1K in your pocket can go to other goodies.
Good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WRS2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Razor,
It might disappoint you but there's a reason why a lot of the guys who track their S2000 (seriously; not so seriously) don't run the boy racer Tein/Buddy Club coilovers. It's either stay stock, go with Koni Yellows, or spend the $$$$ on Ohlins and the like.
They find the $1500JDMs too stiff even if you adjust them to soft. And honestly, if you live the same kind of lifestyle as I do, there's simply no time or desire to mess around with suspension settings and get alignments each time you adjust the ride height. I want set once and drive.
Based on what I've read, and I've read lots, going coilovers is merely a necessary evil that trades off Honda engineering's balanced stock tuning to a lowered setup that's very amateur (but it looks a lot better since the wheel gap is gone especially if you're running bigger wheels like myself).
I'm running Ground Control adjustable coilovers (340F/380R) on the stock Showas and many others on the board are doing this as well. I have put on about 30K on this setup and it still feels as good as day one. The stiffness feels very similar to stock and I reeled in some of the oversteer bite to a more neutral and progressive setup with S-03s/bigger front sway bar.
If you have the cash to spend on the $1500+ on JDMs, go for it because on the street it ain't really gonna matter.
But for overall feel and track duty, the closer to stock softness of the GC setup has received positive reviews. Perhaps that extral $1K in your pocket can go to other goodies.
Good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
stiffness is one part of the problem. That's a vague term that should be replaced with spring/shock under-dampening. A good suspension system should be able to dampen the various surfaces of tracks you run or the streets you are driving the car on. The problem with running high rate springs on local tracks out in my area that are bumpy is the loss of dampening over those bumps. Instead of the shock/spring combo dampening those bumps, the car hops over them and it's not easy to drive. I'm not talking about bumpsteer, that's a different story. However, the way the car reacts to turn in, bumps, exit etc etc etc is up to driver preference. Some drivers prefer the high spring rates, however most people prefer an easier drive.
It might disappoint you but there's a reason why a lot of the guys who track their S2000 (seriously; not so seriously) don't run the boy racer Tein/Buddy Club coilovers. It's either stay stock, go with Koni Yellows, or spend the $$$$ on Ohlins and the like.
They find the $1500JDMs too stiff even if you adjust them to soft. And honestly, if you live the same kind of lifestyle as I do, there's simply no time or desire to mess around with suspension settings and get alignments each time you adjust the ride height. I want set once and drive.
Based on what I've read, and I've read lots, going coilovers is merely a necessary evil that trades off Honda engineering's balanced stock tuning to a lowered setup that's very amateur (but it looks a lot better since the wheel gap is gone especially if you're running bigger wheels like myself).
I'm running Ground Control adjustable coilovers (340F/380R) on the stock Showas and many others on the board are doing this as well. I have put on about 30K on this setup and it still feels as good as day one. The stiffness feels very similar to stock and I reeled in some of the oversteer bite to a more neutral and progressive setup with S-03s/bigger front sway bar.
If you have the cash to spend on the $1500+ on JDMs, go for it because on the street it ain't really gonna matter.
But for overall feel and track duty, the closer to stock softness of the GC setup has received positive reviews. Perhaps that extral $1K in your pocket can go to other goodies.
Good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
stiffness is one part of the problem. That's a vague term that should be replaced with spring/shock under-dampening. A good suspension system should be able to dampen the various surfaces of tracks you run or the streets you are driving the car on. The problem with running high rate springs on local tracks out in my area that are bumpy is the loss of dampening over those bumps. Instead of the shock/spring combo dampening those bumps, the car hops over them and it's not easy to drive. I'm not talking about bumpsteer, that's a different story. However, the way the car reacts to turn in, bumps, exit etc etc etc is up to driver preference. Some drivers prefer the high spring rates, however most people prefer an easier drive.
I definitely see your point.
I know in many of the evo reviews, they tend to favor the well-damped, less "sporty" suspension settings over the less than glass-smooth British roads.
Whereas in the import crowd, stiffness seems to rule. I am more with the cantankerous British folk in this matter.
Like I loved how my friend's 996 just seemed to eat up the bumps at high-speeds on I-5 whereas my car transmitted it all to my kidneys. But in turns and at lower speeds, I liked the on-point feel of my S2000 much better.
Positives and negatives...
I know in many of the evo reviews, they tend to favor the well-damped, less "sporty" suspension settings over the less than glass-smooth British roads.
Whereas in the import crowd, stiffness seems to rule. I am more with the cantankerous British folk in this matter.
Like I loved how my friend's 996 just seemed to eat up the bumps at high-speeds on I-5 whereas my car transmitted it all to my kidneys. But in turns and at lower speeds, I liked the on-point feel of my S2000 much better.
Positives and negatives...
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From: Arlington // Madison Motorsports, VA, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WRS2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Razor,
It might disappoint you but there's a reason why a lot of the guys who track their S2000 (seriously; not so seriously) don't run the boy racer Tein/Buddy Club coilovers. It's either stay stock, go with Koni Yellows, or spend the $$$$ on Ohlins and the like.
They find the $1500JDMs too stiff even if you adjust them to soft. And honestly, if you live the same kind of lifestyle as I do, there's simply no time or desire to mess around with suspension settings and get alignments each time you adjust the ride height. I want set once and drive.
Based on what I've read, and I've read lots, going coilovers is merely a necessary evil that trades off Honda engineering's balanced stock tuning to a lowered setup that's very amateur (but it looks a lot better since the wheel gap is gone especially if you're running bigger wheels like myself).
I'm running Ground Control adjustable coilovers (340F/380R) on the stock Showas and many others on the board are doing this as well. I have put on about 30K on this setup and it still feels as good as day one. The stiffness feels very similar to stock and I reeled in some of the oversteer bite to a more neutral and progressive setup with S-03s/bigger front sway bar.
If you have the cash to spend on the $1500+ on JDMs, go for it because on the street it ain't really gonna matter.
But for overall feel and track duty, the closer to stock softness of the GC setup has received positive reviews. Perhaps that extral $1K in your pocket can go to other goodies.
Good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhhh the problem with the JDM coilover setup 'stiffness' is not merely the damping, its the fact that they tend to have spring rates that are 2 or more times greater than stock (depending on what you're buying). Of course its going to feel stiff.
As far as them being amateur there is a large range of products ranging from mild improvement over stock to full-blown remote reservoir race-only stuff. If you run out and buy the race only stuff and don't tune it properly you may end up having unfavorable handling but that is not because the systems do not work or because they are 'amateur'. It is simply a matter of adjusting the spring rates and damping settings to your liking. Its kind of like putting aftermarket cams in a car without tuning the timing. You could complain about not making more power but it would be a result of ignorance not a defective or poorly-engineered product.
I do agree with your conclusion that chances are that Razor would be happy with just some GC sleeves with Koni Yellows with stock or slightly bumped spring rates
. If you're talking about light track duty the stock limits of the car are going to be more than enough for someone who is just starting out. Too much if you are the imprudent type really.
As far as the Tein vs. Buddy Club both of them are quality coilovers but from talking to a Tein rep the other day it sounds like the RA is somewhat of an outdated model with limited ride height and stroke adjustments. He recommended revalved FLEX or the RS. Buddy Club just opened a US office (www.buddyclub.us) and they seem to have pretty good turnaround on service so I'd be more than willing to go with them. Matter of fact I'll probably be running that on the racecar in a few weeks.
It might disappoint you but there's a reason why a lot of the guys who track their S2000 (seriously; not so seriously) don't run the boy racer Tein/Buddy Club coilovers. It's either stay stock, go with Koni Yellows, or spend the $$$$ on Ohlins and the like.
They find the $1500JDMs too stiff even if you adjust them to soft. And honestly, if you live the same kind of lifestyle as I do, there's simply no time or desire to mess around with suspension settings and get alignments each time you adjust the ride height. I want set once and drive.
Based on what I've read, and I've read lots, going coilovers is merely a necessary evil that trades off Honda engineering's balanced stock tuning to a lowered setup that's very amateur (but it looks a lot better since the wheel gap is gone especially if you're running bigger wheels like myself).
I'm running Ground Control adjustable coilovers (340F/380R) on the stock Showas and many others on the board are doing this as well. I have put on about 30K on this setup and it still feels as good as day one. The stiffness feels very similar to stock and I reeled in some of the oversteer bite to a more neutral and progressive setup with S-03s/bigger front sway bar.
If you have the cash to spend on the $1500+ on JDMs, go for it because on the street it ain't really gonna matter.
But for overall feel and track duty, the closer to stock softness of the GC setup has received positive reviews. Perhaps that extral $1K in your pocket can go to other goodies.
Good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhhh the problem with the JDM coilover setup 'stiffness' is not merely the damping, its the fact that they tend to have spring rates that are 2 or more times greater than stock (depending on what you're buying). Of course its going to feel stiff.
As far as them being amateur there is a large range of products ranging from mild improvement over stock to full-blown remote reservoir race-only stuff. If you run out and buy the race only stuff and don't tune it properly you may end up having unfavorable handling but that is not because the systems do not work or because they are 'amateur'. It is simply a matter of adjusting the spring rates and damping settings to your liking. Its kind of like putting aftermarket cams in a car without tuning the timing. You could complain about not making more power but it would be a result of ignorance not a defective or poorly-engineered product.
I do agree with your conclusion that chances are that Razor would be happy with just some GC sleeves with Koni Yellows with stock or slightly bumped spring rates
. If you're talking about light track duty the stock limits of the car are going to be more than enough for someone who is just starting out. Too much if you are the imprudent type really.As far as the Tein vs. Buddy Club both of them are quality coilovers but from talking to a Tein rep the other day it sounds like the RA is somewhat of an outdated model with limited ride height and stroke adjustments. He recommended revalved FLEX or the RS. Buddy Club just opened a US office (www.buddyclub.us) and they seem to have pretty good turnaround on service so I'd be more than willing to go with them. Matter of fact I'll probably be running that on the racecar in a few weeks.
FWIW, I'm going with the Ground Control/Koni Yellow setup after Vapors' and Vtecvoodoo's recommendations. I was debating this very thing for a month up until a few weeks ago.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JMS JT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FWIW, I'm going with the Ground Control/Koni Yellow setup after Vapors' and Vtecvoodoo's recommendations. I was debating this very thing for a month up until a few weeks ago.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i read on http://www.buddyclub.us that the racing spec dampers come with camber plates.. but only select models. just wondering if you guys know if the s2000 is one of those select models....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PROFILES2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on a side note i love my RA's
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Care to share why you love em so much? I'm still debating between these two coilover set ups myself. Does anyone know how much the RA can drop?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Care to share why you love em so much? I'm still debating between these two coilover set ups myself. Does anyone know how much the RA can drop?
- I just got my bootyclubs today...
- only got the rears in, having a problem with the fronts... they are hitting the a-arm for some reason.. I think it has something to do with the 2nd adjustablity part..
- but anyways, these seem like very good coilovers for the money...
- here is a little jpeg I modified to show my friends what I got
- only got the rears in, having a problem with the fronts... they are hitting the a-arm for some reason.. I think it has something to do with the 2nd adjustablity part..
- but anyways, these seem like very good coilovers for the money...
- here is a little jpeg I modified to show my friends what I got
Just some info on the two of them:
Buddy Clubs:
-Pillow ball Upper Mounts
-Adjustable Stroke
-Chromoly steel coated with weather protected
-15 way damper adjustable
-46mm piston
Tein RA's:
-Pillow ball Upper Mounts
-Non-Adjustable Stoke
-Aluminum
-16 way damper adjustable
-45mm piston
also found this link on the Tein site. Talks about how low they go and what not:
http://www.tein.com/ti/a58.html
Personally after reading what you are really looking for and the suspension you want to get you should listen to Vapor. It sounds like all you want to do is just ge rid of some wheel gap, but still have a nice solid ride. Save yourself some money and follow vapors advise. I think you would be happier in the end.
Buddy Clubs:
-Pillow ball Upper Mounts
-Adjustable Stroke
-Chromoly steel coated with weather protected
-15 way damper adjustable
-46mm piston
Tein RA's:
-Pillow ball Upper Mounts
-Non-Adjustable Stoke
-Aluminum
-16 way damper adjustable
-45mm piston
also found this link on the Tein site. Talks about how low they go and what not:
http://www.tein.com/ti/a58.html
Personally after reading what you are really looking for and the suspension you want to get you should listen to Vapor. It sounds like all you want to do is just ge rid of some wheel gap, but still have a nice solid ride. Save yourself some money and follow vapors advise. I think you would be happier in the end.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut619 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- I just got my bootyclubs today...
- only got the rears in, having a problem with the fronts... they are hitting the a-arm for some reason.. I think it has something to do with the 2nd adjustablity part..
- but anyways, these seem like very good coilovers for the money...
- here is a little jpeg I modified to show my friends what I got
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just got done installing my RA coilovers last night. I too had trouble with the fronts... What a pain in the ****! You have to take the two upper 17 mm bolts that connect the upper control arm to the body. Once that is out, you can just swing the whole assembly out and hank out the shock. I thought the rear was extremely easy except for the driver side. The fuel line made it almost impossible for my small asian hands to fit in there. I can't imagine how some of you bigger guys can do it with the fuel line in place.
I dropped my RA's all the way to the lowest setting front and rear and i have about a one finger gap all around with stock rims. With the dampening 8 clicks in the front and 4 clicks in the rear (from hardest setting), the car "feels" very planted and the ride quality is very comparable to the EVO i used to own. As far as handling...i haven't gotten a chance to test that out yet. I need to get some matching tires in the rear then get my car aligned. Those are just my first impressions. Take it for what its worth. But so far, no rattles nice ride, and nice drop.
- only got the rears in, having a problem with the fronts... they are hitting the a-arm for some reason.. I think it has something to do with the 2nd adjustablity part..
- but anyways, these seem like very good coilovers for the money...
- here is a little jpeg I modified to show my friends what I got
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just got done installing my RA coilovers last night. I too had trouble with the fronts... What a pain in the ****! You have to take the two upper 17 mm bolts that connect the upper control arm to the body. Once that is out, you can just swing the whole assembly out and hank out the shock. I thought the rear was extremely easy except for the driver side. The fuel line made it almost impossible for my small asian hands to fit in there. I can't imagine how some of you bigger guys can do it with the fuel line in place.
I dropped my RA's all the way to the lowest setting front and rear and i have about a one finger gap all around with stock rims. With the dampening 8 clicks in the front and 4 clicks in the rear (from hardest setting), the car "feels" very planted and the ride quality is very comparable to the EVO i used to own. As far as handling...i haven't gotten a chance to test that out yet. I need to get some matching tires in the rear then get my car aligned. Those are just my first impressions. Take it for what its worth. But so far, no rattles nice ride, and nice drop.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StinkyTofu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I just got done installing my RA coilovers last night. I too had trouble with the fronts... What a pain in the ****! You have to take the two upper 17 mm bolts that connect the upper control arm to the body. Once that is out, you can just swing the whole assembly out and hank out the shock. I thought the rear was extremely easy except for the driver side. The fuel line made it almost impossible for my small asian hands to fit in there. I can't imagine how some of you bigger guys can do it with the fuel line in place.
I dropped my RA's all the way to the lowest setting front and rear and i have about a one finger gap all around with stock rims. With the dampening 8 clicks in the front and 4 clicks in the rear (from hardest setting), the car "feels" very planted and the ride quality is very comparable to the EVO i used to own. As far as handling...i haven't gotten a chance to test that out yet. I need to get some matching tires in the rear then get my car aligned. Those are just my first impressions. Take it for what its worth. But so far, no rattles nice ride, and nice drop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
- the problem is with my a-arm hitting the coils when it is installed.... this car is very easy to lower...
- thats why I didn't go with TEIN, becuase they don't go too low...
I just got done installing my RA coilovers last night. I too had trouble with the fronts... What a pain in the ****! You have to take the two upper 17 mm bolts that connect the upper control arm to the body. Once that is out, you can just swing the whole assembly out and hank out the shock. I thought the rear was extremely easy except for the driver side. The fuel line made it almost impossible for my small asian hands to fit in there. I can't imagine how some of you bigger guys can do it with the fuel line in place.
I dropped my RA's all the way to the lowest setting front and rear and i have about a one finger gap all around with stock rims. With the dampening 8 clicks in the front and 4 clicks in the rear (from hardest setting), the car "feels" very planted and the ride quality is very comparable to the EVO i used to own. As far as handling...i haven't gotten a chance to test that out yet. I need to get some matching tires in the rear then get my car aligned. Those are just my first impressions. Take it for what its worth. But so far, no rattles nice ride, and nice drop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>- the problem is with my a-arm hitting the coils when it is installed.... this car is very easy to lower...
- thats why I didn't go with TEIN, becuase they don't go too low...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut619 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
- the problem is with my a-arm hitting the coils when it is installed.... this car is very easy to lower...
- thats why I didn't go with TEIN, becuase they don't go too low...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I see...thats very odd that the a-arm is hitting the coils when installed.
Hope you get that fixed asap. I'm looking forward to seeing your slammed s2k
You'll be getting more booty with your bootyclubs
- the problem is with my a-arm hitting the coils when it is installed.... this car is very easy to lower...
- thats why I didn't go with TEIN, becuase they don't go too low...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I see...thats very odd that the a-arm is hitting the coils when installed.
Hope you get that fixed asap. I'm looking forward to seeing your slammed s2k
You'll be getting more booty with your bootyclubs


