ok did a search and really didnt find an answer...could a valve adjustment keep me from burning oil (im burning a quart every 1500 miles)

 

nope. beating the **** out of your car, having bad oil rings, or valve seal/guides worn are the usual suspects for oil consumption. Also make sure you dont have any leaks around your oil pan or drain plug, head gasket, cam seals, etc.

 

try changing oil brands if you haven't already...most likely a ring problem

 

No.

Oil Rings or valve seals may be on their way out.
Or cam seal/valve cover gasket leak, but doubtful.

That much oil consumption/burning indicates something is wrong. Changing oil weights is a VERY temporary solution.

Do:
1. Compression test
2. leakdown

Report back.

Small amounts of oil burning is normal - burning oil on the track sometimes is a function of the extreme heat and hot air temps.... other times its actually oil getting past the oil rings, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98cwitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok did a search and really didnt find an answer...could a valve adjustment keep me from burning oil (im burning a quart every 1500 miles) </TD></TR></TABLE>

More info needed!

How do you drive? How often are you in VTEC? All the time? Seldom? Is this a car you drag-race? Do you have a history of high-rpm use? How often do you change the oil? How often do you have the valves adjusted? Are you the original owner of the car? If not - what was the condition of the car and mileage when you got it?Have you ever mis-shifted or over-revved? What kind of oil are you using now? Do you have an aftermarket header?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Phat R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

More info needed!

How do you drive? How often are you in VTEC? All the time? Seldom? Is this a car you drag-race? Do you have a history of high-rpm use? How often do you change the oil? How often do you have the valves adjusted? Are you the original owner of the car? If not - what was the condition of the car and mileage when you got it?Have you ever mis-shifted or over-revved? What kind of oil are you using now? Do you have an aftermarket header?</TD></TR></TABLE>

rarely hit VTEC on the street. Had about 30 runs down the 1/4mi with the R. Change the oil every 3000, never had a valve adjustment, and im not the org. owner of the car, the car had 64k on the clock when I got it and now had 86k, I am using Quaker State 5w-30 peak performance oil...but have switched to High milage 5w-30. I do have i/jdm header/ exhaust/ Kenji (9,000rl) and a oil catch can. I figured thats a lot of burning oil...just trying to find the problem

 

I have the same problem, i burn 1qt per 1k miles of 10w-10 syntheic oil. I did a compression test and got all my cylinders at 225psi except cylinder 3 with was at 175psi.

I would do a compression test and see what that says. It is really easy and you can do it yourself, a compression test kit cost like $25.00 at advanced auto parts.

here is the link that tells you how to do one:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by valentinecr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the same problem, i burn 1qt per 1k miles of 10w-10 syntheic oil. I did a compression test and got all my cylinders at 225psi except cylinder 3 with was at 175psi.

I would do a compression test and see what that says. It is really easy and you can do it yourself, a compression test kit cost like $25.00 at advanced auto parts.

here is the link that tells you how to do one:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php
</TD></TR></TABLE>

now you need to do a leakdown and see where you are leaking from

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Have someone hold the compression tester while you press the gas pedal all the way to the floor, this is very important. While the pedal is pressed down, turn the ignition on and crank the motor over 5 times.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so you have to do this 5 times on each cylinder, continueously or crank...stop...crank etc etc? Why does the gas pedal have to be to the floor? Ill probably go do the tonight and see what I get.

i heard that since I have a JDM header my car should normally burn oil (from HT members actually), can anyone verify this?


Modified by 98cwitr at 4:10 PM 4/27/2004

 

no, you crank it and let it turn over about 5 times. dont crank, stop, crank more, stop. I forget why u need to have your foot on the gas(do you even need to do that?) but I think you are supposed to disconnect your injectors or pull the fuse for them. no positive, havent done it in awhile.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98cwitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so you have to do this 5 times on each cylinder, continueously or crank...stop...crank etc etc? Why does the gas pedal have to be to the floor? Ill probably go do the tonight and see what I get.

i heard that since I have a JDM header my car should normally burn oil (from HT members actually), can anyone verify this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL...what? Normally burn oil? That's an oxymoron...every car burns SOME oil, but it should hardly be noticeable...your case is not normal...not by any stretch of the imagination....if you want my opinion, I blame it on the oil you have been using...not really top of the line for a car that is revving to 8400...

 

what type of oil would you guys suggest?

 

Oh boy....

The point of my last post was to tell you indirectly that the damage has been done...in part....IN PART I said, to the oil you were using.

Just my opinion though...do some searches for oil and see what you find....

 

Dude - your car is 6 almost 7 years old. Add to that - you are the 2nd owner. Who knows what abuse the 1st owner subjected the car to.

Time for a valve adjustment, compression test and leakdown test.

You will glean a lot of information from this.


Modified by Big Phat R at 2:02 PM 4/27/2004

 

i will be doing the comp. check tonight myself...i dont have an air compressor so I will take it to Honda and have a leakdown test and valve adjustment done my car runs very very very rich and I've had black smoke coming out of my exhaust, but never noticed (or been told) that there was any bluish white smoke, only black.

i appeciate all the help guys...Ill keep ya posted

 

well been calling around

Sutton Acura: Leakdown - $125
Valve adj.- $160

Walsh Honda: Leakdown - $varies
Valve adj. - $95
but, they dont work on Acura's since they are so busy...WTF?

Hughes Honda - suppose to be calling me back

**** Acura


Modified by 98cwitr at 5:28 PM 4/27/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98cwitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you have to do this 5 times on each cylinder, continueously or crank...stop...crank etc etc? </TD></TR></TABLE>turn it over 5 times, continuously cranking, yes.
---&gt;the person holding the compression test guage will see the guage's needle jump each time THAT one specific cylinder is pressurized so it is very simple for that person to see the 5 times the motor needs to be turned over.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98cwitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why does the gas pedal have to be to the floor?</TD></TR></TABLE>to allow air into the cylinder, more importantly... <U>the maximum amount of air</U>