i have 2 options, upgrade to the integra fronts ,be done w/ it and maybe not have enough money for the actuall class or upgrade to real good carbotech's or cobalt pads and have enough money but still be worried about being underbraked? If i do just the pads and rotors, i'll eventually have enough money to bump up to the teg stuff.

My last hpde was great but i found that the axxis metal masters suck on the track, i burnt out the breaks REAL fast and had to do a lap or 2 to kool them off. I know the carbotech's work great and i know the cobalts work great, just wondering what you all would do. i'm thinking just the pads and rotors because it's just an hpde and i should not be worried about racing but rather be worried about learning as much as i possibly can.

any suggestions?
thanx!!

 

theres no reason to swap knuckles, i have no idea who came up with the idea that this is a positive and worthwhile "upgrade". judging from what i read about ppl who try it, they end up running into more issues with axles and unfixable alignments.

just change your pads and freshen up your fluid. that is ALL you will need to do, unless your rotors need replacing. typical pads ppl use are axxis ultimates, raybestos cermaic enhanced from pepboys, hawk HP+ or carbotech panther (i think). anyone of these is all you need. do a search for "pads" and youll find all the opinions you want.

 

spend the money on carbotech pads and some GOOD fluid....until you can out drive those pads on your stock setup there is no reason to do a brake swap!!!!

i content until you start racing you don't even need rear disks!!!!

 

May I also suggest that you give the Cobalt GT Sports a try? They are an excellent pad for auto-x & hpde use.

 

Right, i heard the same thing but i will not be swapping knuckles. I can get the calipers and rotos w/ the adapter hardware for a real good price from fastbrbakes, just that price puts me a lil over my VERY small budget for this coming hpde at beaver run. But like some of the other people said, i should be fine w/ real good pads untill i learn enough to out drive them. So i should try the cobalt gt spec pads? I'm laready running the superblue brake fluid, that not good enough?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litlekikr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm laready running the superblue brake fluid, that not good enough?</TD></TR></TABLE>

when did you change it last? if it is from last summer, then no, its not good enough.

I'm not a big fan of these "street & track" pads myself. some people have had good results with them but I'm more of the school of using real race pads and changing them before and after the event. Its really not that much work.

real race pads = carbotech xp, hawk blue, performance friction PF NN, porterfield R4, etc.

Todd is Mr. Pep Boyz pads, but Todd can drive anything, and still be fast. That Probe has no brakes with any pads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoelG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not a big fan of these "street & track" pads myself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll second this. Pads that work on the street and track are generally a poor compromise, IMO. Get a decent set of track pads and some good fluid and you should be ok.

Christian- who really likes using track pads on the street... except when they're cold...

 

You don't need brakes, they only slow you down. My Celica is not the best car to out brake a Honda, but once you stop relaying on your brakes and all the other goodies you can be a hell of a driver.

 

I have had Carbotech 1108s on a tt supra that I tracked and from what I understand my CRX hybrid has them on the fronts at least. Someone said there is no good "compromise" pad for the street and track. Actually I have been pleased with the Carbotech XPs for both a track pad and a street pad. Do they squeal a little? Yes. I really can't tell any difference when the pads are cold and you first apply. The pedals a little firm but they still stop fine IMO. The 1108s are good up to 1350F. My Supra was a hefty 3400lbs and I would drive it at Road Atlanta and at Barber Motorports Park. Didn't have issues. Your rotors are a heat sink. One of the best things you can do for your rotors, pads, calipers, caliper seals is to duct fresh air to your rotors. Take the heat out of them. That is critical IMO. Nothing but some ducting hose and zip ties and yanking off dust shields. Duct your front brakes.
Barry H.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoelG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not a big fan of these "street & track" pads myself..... real race pads = carbotech xp</TD></TR></TABLE>

XP8's make a nice street pad!

 

like what everyone else said.. stay with the stock rotors.. just get some good brake pads. Sounds like you are fast enough that the street and track pads wont do anymore.
I would suggest doing what I did until i made my car a track car only. I bought a set of race pads and rotors for the pads (colbolt spec B) I would swap them out either when I got to the track or the night before. then swap them back for street driving. this works well but takes a little more work. and dont get cheap and just swap pads only, you will run into problems down the road!

 

1108s are probably a decent street pad in Birmingham Al., but I'd be a little wary of them in the great white north.

joel -- who used to think porterfield R4 were good street pads, 'til he had a little too much excitement with them one zero degree night

 

well i always replace the rotors, i don't even bother turning them anymore. I only use the brembo stuff and i already have some plans for some ducting so i'm glad to know that i seem to have the right idea.
thanx for everybody's help!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litlekikr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I only use the brembo stuff and i already have some plans for some ducting so i'm glad to know that i seem to have the right idea.
thanx for everybody's help!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont spend the money on brembo.. I buy cheap rotors form kragen or just buy them from cobalt when I place my order. (as a side note, I used to use brembo blank rotors, but I noticed they would get small cracks in them before I would ware out the pads)

 

Hey!

You buy your Cobalt from PDQ Motorsports now, remember???

 

A point here-BeaveRun is a fairly short tight track. The braking zones are going to test your pads and fluid. We are running the HPDE and maybe Time Trials in June. Pads are the standard AEM/Nissin upgrade on fresh Brembo Blanks. Fluid will be changed out as it should be anyway. From my experience-how deep you go into a corner will have a great effect on brake performance as you go faster. See you there.

 

damn, i thought they were cheap, i pay 20 per rotor. hey, jc836, i'll be there in june 5th and 6th. What else should i expect from this track?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litlekikr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn, i thought they were cheap, i pay 20 per rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that would qualify as cheap..

 

Hey man! How goes it? This is Chris from the old hp.com site. Trust me. I agree with the post above about street/strip pads. Get you a set of Hawk Blues or some similiar pad from another company. My GSR does not have that great of a brake setup for the power and weight we have to run at in HC. But I feel pretty confident running the Hawk Blues. When I used to HPDE the Prelude I would swap aggressive pads on before the event. It is not that hard. I would definitely take that route. You will enjoy the Beaver. It is a bit bumpy but a fun track. On 800+ lb spring rates I was sore after the weekend from the bumps. But for an aggressive street setup I don't think it would be that bad.

Chris