milled head, cam and ignition timing
well id like to say that im fairly good at workin on hondas but i would like some insight. heres the deal.
my head is milled roughly .020 w/ a 2 layer OEM head gasket. now i set up my cams at 0,0 as if the head was not milled. so to compensate for my milled head i advanced both I/E cams 1 degree on the cam gears, ok. now my distributor is almost at full retarded position and running the correct 17 degrees. can someone explain this for me???
my head is milled roughly .020 w/ a 2 layer OEM head gasket. now i set up my cams at 0,0 as if the head was not milled. so to compensate for my milled head i advanced both I/E cams 1 degree on the cam gears, ok. now my distributor is almost at full retarded position and running the correct 17 degrees. can someone explain this for me???
i think you need to change your cam gears more
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=700573
hope that helps
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=700573
hope that helps
thanx bob but it didnt help. i know i have them set right because when i have the cyl #1 at TDC i can put the allen head wrench through the cam rails and line up perfectly in the cams. the T belt was put on when the cams were at 0,0 so i know thats perfect.
Setting them up with the allen wrench doesn't matter, because the problem occurs when you tension down the timming belt. (which is of cource down, by spinning the crank counter clockwise).
You should have them set at about 1.5, 1.5
The distributor is attached to the intake cam, so when you advance/retard the intake cam it does play with your ignition timming.
You should have them set at about 1.5, 1.5
The distributor is attached to the intake cam, so when you advance/retard the intake cam it does play with your ignition timming.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Setting them up with the allen wrench doesn't matter, because the problem occurs when you tension down the timming belt. (which is of cource down, by spinning the crank counter clockwise).
You should have them set at about 1.5, 1.5
The distributor is attached to the intake cam, so when you advance/retard the intake cam it does play with your ignition timming. </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is with the timing belt tensioned. if u made half *** sense out of anything u were trying to say it might actually b relevant. i know the damn distributor is attached to the intake cam, but if u read my problem i only have the intake cam adjusted 2 degrees advanced and the distributor is pulled almost all the way forward (retarded). just wondering if other ppl have had this issue and what they did to overcome the issue if they ran out of room for adjustment on the distributor.
You should have them set at about 1.5, 1.5
The distributor is attached to the intake cam, so when you advance/retard the intake cam it does play with your ignition timming. </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is with the timing belt tensioned. if u made half *** sense out of anything u were trying to say it might actually b relevant. i know the damn distributor is attached to the intake cam, but if u read my problem i only have the intake cam adjusted 2 degrees advanced and the distributor is pulled almost all the way forward (retarded). just wondering if other ppl have had this issue and what they did to overcome the issue if they ran out of room for adjustment on the distributor.
lol calm down there tiger, you expect people to help if your being an ***? 
Real Time had to open up the notches in on distributor to allow for more adjustment.
That would be a simple way to get back to 16BTDC.
Modified by StyleTEG at 5:00 PM 4/26/2004

Real Time had to open up the notches in on distributor to allow for more adjustment.
That would be a simple way to get back to 16BTDC.
Modified by StyleTEG at 5:00 PM 4/26/2004
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that was my next option cause my new motor will prolly b decked to make more compression. anyways, thanx for the new info.
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