For my b20 setup im wondering if i should run b20 rods shot peened or eagle rods. Also take into consideration im running arias 11.8:1 pistons and the whole bottom end will be getting balanced and blue printed.

 

it depends on your plans for the engine, and your budget.
id say shotpeen them as a minimum.
if you have money get forged rods.
forged rods will give you extra reliability and ability for more power.
of course use ARP rod bolts if you shotpeen the old ones

i have forged rods planned for my future lsvtec build.

 

i was in the same position as you and my buddy talked me into just doin eagle rods. so im gonna give you the same advice. its nice to not have to worry about those giving out. goodluck bro

 

it depends how you look at it really. usually when someone throws a rod, the problem can be traced back to a stretched rod bolt. personally, i think, for an NA motor not spinning to oblivion, shot peened stock rods with ARP rod bolts are awesome. Remember, Honda makes quality good ****, thats why we're all on this site in the first place. OEM=

 

where does someone go to or call to have this done?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it depends how you look at it really. usually when someone throws a rod, the problem can be traced back to a stretched rod bolt. personally, i think, for an NA motor not spinning to oblivion, shot peened stock rods with ARP rod bolts are awesome. Remember, Honda makes quality good ****, thats why we're all on this site in the first place. OEM= </TD></TR></TABLE> I agree, as long as you arn't going to the moon you will be ok with a set of shot peened ones

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where does someone go to or call to have this done?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

good thread

 

stock rods are going to be lighter than some eagles and have enough strength for pretty much any hp u will throw at them n/a. Rpm's are going to put alot of tensile stress on them so ARP's sound like a good idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where does someone go to or call to have this done?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your local machine shop.

 

To get REAL shotpeening, go to Metal Improvement Company. Most shops just use a "glass bead" cabinet that actually can weaken the rods. You need to install and re-hone the big end after shotpeening.

 

Wow thanks DonF... called my machine shop and they only glass bead. So I never did get a price.

 

... and now I am finding out how hard it is to have done here in Spokane

 

Check with Loyning's Engine Service in Portland. Shipping cannot be that much.

 

Yeah that is kinda what I was thinking. So after these are done they still need to be machined for ARP hardware but also HAVE to be re-honed right?

Just I am going to need to cordinate all of this so it is done in the right order/ timeline.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it depends how you look at it really. usually when someone throws a rod, the problem can be traced back to a stretched rod bolt. personally, i think, for an NA motor not spinning to oblivion, shot peened stock rods with ARP rod bolts are awesome. Remember, Honda makes quality good ****, thats why we're all on this site in the first place. OEM= </TD></TR></TABLE>

No sir,

I've tried that several times and it didnt wok revving to 8grand. The rod would break in the middle after about 30 passes. If you going to build some to race just get the good stuff and be safe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team Evol Tyrone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No sir,

I've tried that several times and it didnt wok revving to 8grand. The rod would break in the middle after about 30 passes. If you going to build some to race just get the good stuff and be safe. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've taken good LS rods to 9300 for more than 100 passes on the dyno for the test mules and well over 50 pases down the track without with no such breakage. Have seen those same rods take 100 NOS shots making well over 280 whp too, without breaking. I'm not talking about 1 block... well over 14, 14 X 4 = 56 rods that have never snapped minimum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris Tune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've taken good LS rods to 9300 for more than 100 passes on the dyno for the test mules and well over 50 pases down the track without with no such breakage. Have seen those same rods take 100 NOS shots making well over 280 whp too, without breaking. I'm not talking about 1 block... well over 14, 14 X 4 = 56 rods that have never snapped minimum. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Your so lucky i need the winning lotto numbers ASAP. To me its just not worth the risk of ruining the whole setup over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team Evol Tyrone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Your so lucky i need the winning lotto numbers ASAP. To me its just not worth the risk of ruining the whole setup over. </TD></TR></TABLE>

luck had nothing to do with it, i could do it over and over and over and over and over... maybe one will fail, one that i knew nothing of, one that maybe cracked and i didn't checked throughly, one with extreme metal fatigue, maybe you just had one bad.

 

Yeah but that one bad one is could ruin a lot of parts and its not worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team Evol Tyrone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you going to build something to race just get the good stuff and be safe. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so whats the good stuff?

 

The few breakages I have seen were from greedy timing. I am trying to be realistic about it and know it is for daily driving. No it is not a full race motor but it should do what I ask of it. Again I am just not expecting huge *** numbers. But I do see the point in how much stronger it would be with a set of Eagles or something. It is just not in my budget and all I need it to do is crack off a high 12

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by badboyr66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The few breakages I have seen were from greedy timing. I am trying to be realistic about it and know it is for daily driving. No it is not a full race motor but it should do what I ask of it. Again I am just not expecting huge *** numbers. But I do see the point in how much stronger it would be with a set of Eagles or something. It is just not in my budget and all I need it to do is crack off a high 12</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can crack off a high twelve these days in B16a form and its a stronger rod hahaha. Even swapping in a gsr grank and rod is a better choice I think. Dude you can get a Scat rod for like 240 bucks. They light and would be better than destroying a block and head with hope that you picked a great LS rod. Just think you race a guy for 100 bucks and you almost paid for the security of the rods. To each his own though just my two cents but don't cry when your ***** folded up. Wait I got a picture of a broken LS rod motor destroyed.

Rod broke and destroyed buddies 800 dollars worth of head work. So totalled about 1200 including head cost.

 

if you have the money buy the eagles.. i mean i would trust the eagles before the oem rods.. so why not do it?


shawn

 

i would also go the safe route and just get eagle rods because not only are they fitted with arp hardware, it is just more insurance.

we used to do shot-peening and it was 15/rod.
im not sure why we stopped.