I did some searching and I haven't came up with any clear answers, can people that actuarially have these on there cars let me know if there is any problems with them. I keep reading oh my friend or on my brothers car it rubs it this it that or should i look into anther company its going on a ek hatch wheels are 15x6.5 street 13x8 track. Want to try to get this by the end of the week.

 

search around for full-race traction bars

 

it only brought up one post and it didn't help me for Sh*t doesn't even list what brand it is

 

If you are worried about clearance or rubbing, I would get there do-it-yourself kit if you know how to weld or have access to a good welder.

If you go this route, I would take the dampers out so you can run the suspension through its full range of motion while positioning the radius rods to see where it would fit best. Find out where it binds and where it clears then spot weld a few spots so you can take it down and finish it up with some nice clean beads.

 

do you realize that their DIY kit is a joke becuase the length of the radius rod itself determines where on the crossmember it mounts? You cant move the mount without changing the length of the rod

 

geoff what is the price on the traction bars from you for a 93hatch.

 

Longer/shorter radius rods can be got for not too much so that's not really a big issue. Plus they have adjustment for caster so you probably could make the ones in the kit slightly longer if it is only a minor inward adjustment in the mount point.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22avid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Longer/shorter radius rods can be got for not too much so that's not really a big issue. Plus they have adjustment for caster so you probably could make the ones in the kit slightly longer if it is only a minor inward adjustment in the mount point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to mention the fact that they aren't designed to be a custom kit it is just a kit that is unwelded. All the measurements are there. It is for the enthusiast that has the ability to weld or the access to a welder rather than paying the higher dollar price for the already welded piece. I personally think it is a great idea

-Ryan

 

the range of adjustment from screwing in/unscrewing a heim should be no more than 1/2". The range needed for real adjustment is about +/- 2" either direction, a total of 4". I hope that heims are not unscrewed or screwed in that much.

i am not posting that to start ****, i posted that becuase i build stuff like this every day for a living and i understand the importance of a good design, not of guessing lengths by randomly tightening a heim down.

 

you wonthave clearence issues with the z10 bar with streets. although, you will hit with these 8in wide slicks, but then again that wouldnt be to the very end of turing radius, so you would really never have a problem. i have a set

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you realize that their DIY kit is a joke becuase the length of the radius rod itself determines where on the crossmember it mounts? You cant move the mount without changing the length of the rod</TD></TR></TABLE>

We offer 3 different rod lengths. You just have to specify which size rod you need.

 

Sorry to hi - jack this thread, but it will only be for a minute. Hey Rob, I just got back from VA., Z-10 oil pan was on my desk. Thank You, and it looks awesome.

 

I have run them for 2 years now, and the Z10 is absolutely fantastic. I have zero wheel hop as result. I run them at 3 turns in (creates a toe in condition), the car tracks perfectly straight down the dragstrip.

My only complaint is that the driver's side strut rod rubs on my Moroso 5 quart pan, I will eventually pull the pan and cut the corner off and re weld it to clear the strut rod, it's not a major issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to mention the fact that they aren't designed to be a custom kit it is just a kit that is unwelded.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not true, This kit can easily serve as a custom kit if you are any good at fabbing stuff. You save over half the fab work by having everything (i.e. brackets, bars, etc.) already cut to specs. The only fabbing you would have to do is get the proper length radius rods and locate those where you need and weld up the brackets they give you in the kit. Much quicker and easier for the weekend warrior to do than having to cut brackets and bars from raw stock.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the range of adjustment from screwing in/unscrewing a heim should be no more than 1/2". The range needed for real adjustment is about +/- 2" either direction, a total of 4". I hope that heims are not unscrewed or screwed in that much.

i am not posting that to start ****, i posted that becuase i build stuff like this every day for a living and i understand the importance of a good design, not of guessing lengths by randomly tightening a heim down.</TD></TR></TABLE>.......

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22avid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Longer/shorter radius rods can be got for not too much.... you probably could make the ones in the kit slightly longer if it is only a minor inward adjustment in the mount point.</TD></TR></TABLE>......

The key word here is minor adjustment. I never suggested randomly unscrewing 2" adjustments out of the rods. That's why I started with the fact that you can get radius rods in varying lengths to suit your setup.

 

How much is DIY z-10 kit ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boost psycho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have run them for 2 years now, and the Z10 is absolutely fantastic. I have zero wheel hop as result. I run them at 3 turns in (creates a toe in condition), the car tracks perfectly straight down the dragstrip.

My only complaint is that the driver's side strut rod rubs on my Moroso 5 quart pan, I will eventually pull the pan and cut the corner off and re weld it to clear the strut rod, it's not a major issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The new Z10 pan is made to fix that problem. The corner is rounded.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sold9secteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to hi - jack this thread, but it will only be for a minute. Hey Rob, I just got back from VA., Z-10 oil pan was on my desk. Thank You, and it looks awesome. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sweet oil pan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Barney Ruble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much is DIY z-10 kit ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

$199 Shipped