can the block itself handle 8000+rpm? im asking about just the block itself, i know you would have to obviously have all the other surrounding mods to make it even work but can the block itself do it?

 

The block itself can definitely handle 8k. I say this assuming that you are only talking about the block and sleeves and nothing else.

 

yes the block itself, i woudl be using a built LS head and would build the head and valvetrain to work at 8k+

 

long as your staying na the b20 block will handle 8k, only bad thing is long stroke, mine goes to 6900 rpms daily and thats a bone stock b20z with bolt ons.

 

well see i figured the long stroke would help with low end torque and having the built head would allow for high rpm and good top end hp...is there a flaw to my thinking?

 

the torque is real good down low but long stroked motors really dont like to sustain high rpms for long perioids of time. But im doing the same deal a reworked p75 LS head for my b20

 

If you are talking about ALL the possible mods surrounding a high reving engine, then you might as well include longer rods and pistons with the wrist pin raised. That would improve your r/s ratio, and reduce piston sideloading.

 

yeah....i get my ported an polished head in the next 2 weeks. and i plan on getting type r/gsr rods to see if i can run those with the wrist pins raised like styleteg suggests. i'm planning on goin to 7600 in my automatic once i get a standalone

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are talking about ALL the possible mods surrounding a high reving engine, then you might as well include longer rods and pistons with the wrist pin raised. That would improve your r/s ratio, and reduce piston sideloading.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and what kinda rods would those be....? im going to start my ls build soon im looking into all the options

 

i think endyn has the rods and pistons your looking for

 

sleeves are basically styro foam paper...i wouldn't trust them beyond 8k rpms...

 

yes b20 sleeves ARE brital. i don't know if i'll take it that far. thats a lil out there man. my max shift is at 8400. after i sleeve it in jan im gonna let my cams go to work. but yes b20 sleeves are the weakest of the b-series.

 

i aint taken my b20vtec past 7800 tired of spinning rod bearings rather be safe than sorry

 

like people say i'm sure the block could rev to 8k but wouldn't buying a block girdle help? i mean weoulnd't it be a good investment

http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/ge_engine.htm

such as those i'm sure thosea arent the best just using it as an example.

 

will a stock block (b20 n/a) be able to handle a 7k load wit the way a b18b would?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94sohc13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like people say i'm sure the block could rev to 8k but wouldn't buying a block girdle help? i mean weoulnd't it be a good investment

http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/ge_engine.htm

such as those i'm sure thosea arent the best just using it as an example.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, a block girdle would be a good investment. Blockposting would also be a good investment.

 

Block will handle 8000rpm fine. Do not need a girdle, but posting is not a bad idea if you are going past 11-1 comp. ratio.

 

b20vtec for two years now, i shift at 8-8.2k rpms on gsr cams/springs/retainers. i have managed to rev the engine well over 8.5k rpms on a misshift, in fact i have broken 2 pressure plates by missing a gear. that i can remember, i have done over 100 passes on this engine wich is completetly stock from top to bottom with no reliability issues. my .02c

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and what kinda rods would those be....? im going to start my ls build soon im looking into all the options</TD></TR></TABLE>

uh gsr rods... they are longer ya know! using longer gsr rods and keeping the b20 crank means you keep the displacement but still raise your r/s ratio. to keep the piston from coming out of the block you move the pin location down to keep the same overall combined length of the rod/piston. this IMHO wont have any effect on how high you can rev the B20 block though but it will shift your powerband up higher (piston speeds past 8500 with the b20 crank will make you loose power compared to a gsr crank)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

uh gsr rods... they are longer ya know! using longer gsr rods and keeping the b20 crank means you keep the displacement but still raise your r/s ratio. to keep the piston from coming out of the block you move the pin location down to keep the same overall combined length of the rod/piston. this IMHO wont have any effect on how high you can rev the B20 block though but it will shift your powerband up higher (piston speeds past 8500 with the b20 crank will make you loose power compared to a gsr crank)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now is this true? Is this from experience? Any Dyno charts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokey2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b20vtec for two years now, i shift at 8-8.2k rpms on gsr cams/springs/retainers. i have managed to rev the engine well over 8.5k rpms on a misshift, in fact i have broken 2 pressure plates by missing a gear. that i can remember, i have done over 100 passes on this engine wich is completetly stock from top to bottom with no reliability issues. my .02c </TD></TR></TABLE>Just curious, what kind of times are you running with this stock setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious, what kind of times are you running with this stock setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>i took some time off this week, and i made it to the tracl both days. for reference, i have a 12.8 as my best time on 13" m&h dot legal tires. wednesday night i took the car out to the track, i was shocked to have it run 13.3@104mph on 14" falken azenis. those tire are about 25-50% worn out, and are the tires that i drive the car with everyday. after seen how well the car ran with street tires, i decided to come again on friday night test and tune. friday on my first pass, i manage to get a 12.2@ 105mph with the tires at 18psi. on my second pass, i hit my new personal street tire et of 13.1@106.??. i manage to run that time about 3 more times, but i ran no slower than 13.3 the whole night. so as it stands 12.8@107mph with a 1.9 60' time on the 13" m&h dot tires and
13.1@106mph with 14" falken azenis tires with a 2.1 60' times

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokey2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i took some time off this week, and i made it to the tracl both days. for reference, i have a 12.8 as my best time on 13" m&h dot legal tires. wednesday night i took the car out to the track, i was shocked to have it run 13.3@104mph on 14" falken azenis. those tire are about 25-50% worn out, and are the tires that i drive the car with everyday. after seen how well the car ran with street tires, i decided to come again on friday night test and tune. friday on my first pass, i manage to get a 12.2@ 105mph with the tires at 18psi. on my second pass, i hit my new personal street tire et of 13.1@106.??. i manage to run that time about 3 more times, but i ran no slower than 13.3 the whole night. so as it stands 12.8@107mph with a 1.9 60' time on the 13" m&h dot tires and
13.1@106mph with 14" falken azenis tires with a 2.1 60' times </TD></TR></TABLE>Sounds like a reliable and fun daily driver Is that the b20z or b20b?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like a reliable and fun daily driver Is that the b20z or b20b?</TD></TR></TABLE>it's the b20z bottomend, i should be able to go to the track next saturday and make a couple of passes with some 13x8x22 m&h slicks!

 

but back to what ws said earlier does the gsr rod thing work or is this a "in-theory" responce????