First of all, my brakes are bad, i don't know if this is what happens to every cars after a while, but anyways when i come to a stop, the brake pressure seems to get weaker and weaker as i hold on to the brake, and eventually i end up flooring on the brake to stop SLOWLY
It wasn't this bad until i got my tires replaced yesterday and it this continues i'll probably go to the shop and ask them what's up, anyways back to the brakes, i got bunch of paper towel to get the brake fluid out from the resovoir and filled it up with new brake fluid and it seems to be better, but still, the brake pressure gets weaker, it sorta feels like there's air leaking or something
So has this happened to anyone? i really need your opinion on this cause i don't wanna end up getting in a wreck because of this and what will i need to replace or do?
I'm thinkin of buying the brake cleaner and spray that on the brakes, or replaces pads but your opinion sure will be very helpful and thanks in advance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngwon22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">, i got bunch of paper towel to get the brake fluid out from the resovoir and filled it up with new brake fluid and it seems to be better</TD></TR></TABLE>

How low did you go, you could actually put air in the system which is bad. Anyways the fluid is not really your problem, you could try a few things to fix the problem.

Bleed the brakes
Or get a new master cylinder

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bleed the brakes
Or get a new master cylinder</TD></TR></TABLE>

uhhh...ummm..ok good idea! how?

 

bleed the brakes for air bubbles and maybe consider SS braided lines

when you brake hard the fluid heats up and expands the brake lines

 

The master cylinder is held on by two bolts and 4 brake lines, if your not sure on how to do these things, you should not really mess with it. Brakes are a pretty big thing on a car, if those go bad while driving your screwed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The master cylinder is held on by two bolts and 4 brake lines, </TD></TR></TABLE>

There is only 2 lines on the MC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngwon22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

uhhh...ummm..ok good idea! how?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a little valve on your brake caliper, it kinda looks like a nipple. Get a friend to get in the car and pump the brake pedal a few times and then hold it, while he is holding it you open the valve( it's either a 8mm, 10mm I can't remember.) Then repeat until it is all fluid coming out. Then do to the other three wheels. If the pedal is still mushy, then it will probably the master cylinder.

I hope this makes sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourthGenHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There is only 2 lines on the MC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good call, I was doing 2 things at once. And about the nipple on the caliper or wheel cylinder. Be very carefull with it, you don't want it to crack off.

 

Would i need to lift the car? and do i even wanna mess with this..?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngwon22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would i need to lift the car? and do i even wanna mess with this..?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes your gonna have to lift the car and take the wheels off. Bleeding the brakes is not to hard, but just be careful when loosening the nipple. You always gotta start some where and learn.

 

The easiest way to bleed brakes is the buddy system...

Man 1 open bleeder screw
Man 2 press and hold down pedal
Man 1 close bleeder screw
Man 2 let up on pedal.

Put a hose on the bleeder screw and a bucket under it to collect what comes out. Its pretty easy.

 

does that drain it completely? btw thanks ppl everything was very helpful and i'm gonna bleed the brakes when i rotate tires and put lowering springs in....just tryin to get everything done at once

 

are you losing any fluid? make sure you don't have a leaking caliper or leaking rear brake cylinder

 

If after you bleed the brakes and the problems still persists,rebuild the master cylinder.

 

no..i'm not losing fluid but i'm losing my ***** stoppin hella slow everytime especially in school zone

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngwon22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no..i'm not losing fluid but i'm losing my ***** stoppin hella slow everytime especially in school zone</TD></TR></TABLE>
ha ha sorry, I know the feeling. makes you wanna grab that e-brake huh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes your gonna have to lift the car and take the wheels off. Bleeding the brakes is not to hard, but just be careful when loosening the nipple. You always gotta start some where and learn.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you dont mind laying on the ground then no you dont have to lift the car nor take the wheels off, but to do the fronts make it easier and turn the wheel all the way out for each side your working on so you can have more access, otherwise the backs are pretty open to get to.

I think the rears are a 10mm nut and the fronts are around a 8 mm. Its not a bad idea to spray the BLEEDERS (since that is what they are called) with some penetrating lube and go around and crack each one loose then tighten them up before actually bleeding the brakes just so you know your okay to proceed.

Thats on a front disc, rear drum setup, ive never done a 4 wheel disk on a crx so you may have more troubles doing it on the ground then I did.

Keep in mind you could have a wheel cylinder that is just totally wasted it can cause a small hydraulic presssure loss that YOU WILL notice. otherwise yes im sure the primary seals inside the master are leaking this willl give you an internal leak and your pedal will feel terrible.

I know becuase I just replaced my master due to the same symptoms I also had bad wheel clyinders.

 

ok...let's say i bled the brakes and what shall i do if it doesn't fix it? Is master cylinder the only other concern than bleeding?

 

You know, i just thought of this today..but what are some reasons i may have to bleed the brakes? I've never done anything to my brakes, but about a month & a half ago the brake fluid was low and i just feeled it up with brake fluid from my cabinet, now i think that i shouldn't have cause it might have been kinda old

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngwon22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know, i just thought of this today..but what are some reasons i may have to bleed the brakes? I've never done anything to my brakes, but about a month & a half ago the brake fluid was low and i just feeled it up with brake fluid from my cabinet, now i think that i shouldn't have cause it might have been kinda old</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only reason you bleed the brakes is to get air out of the system, if your brake fluid dropped to low, air might of got in. You could also flush the system, by doing this, you will replace all the old fluid with new fluid.

 

yea, thats what i'm plannin to do..so how much fluids do i need to buy to replace it all?

 

forgot to mention, thanks 90blackcrx

 

anyone?

 

I'd also recommend replacing your MC, just like Kasper said, it sounds like fluid is getting by the seals in the MC.
Replace it with a 15/16ths MC. I got one from an '88 accord ex-i, it just bolts on. Definitly my second favorite mod to date.

 

Ok...Ok Know these guys might be right. But they forgot to ask you something important. Do you have rear discs or drums. If discs then stay w/ what everyone else said. If not then 9 times out of 10 it is the proportioning valve. Try this to make sure. When you have a long stretch to test the brakes, push in the brake pedal when it starts to get mushy just give the ebrake enough pull to help slow down. The brake pedal should firm up when you have some of the slack taken up with the ebrake. You can try to adjust it yourself, but come on man these are your brakes....definately get some one who knows whats going on to help you out. Going fast is awesome...but if you cant stop in time...its literally the breaks. Pardon the pun. Hope that helped a bit......