CMP is next on the schedule and the only place where we'll need brake ducts on the ITC car. The only problem is that I can't figure out where to pick up the air. There isn't much room between the radiator and the grille and I'm not allowed to use turn signal light holes and such.

Suggestions?
Pictures?

 

Well I will be watching this thread because I need to duct my brakes on the 88 CRX. Sorry can't be of help. Are you making backing plates?
Barry H.

 

Is this a trick question? You are allowed two 3" holes to be cut into the front bumper cover.

 

can you run an undertray ? NACA ducts on the undertray , GT1 style would be nicey...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phat-S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this a trick question? You are allowed two 3" holes to be cut into the front bumper cover.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know. But since CMP is the only place I'll ever run brake ducts I was hoping for an alternative to sawing on the bumper cover. There probably isn't one, but I thought I'd ask and see if there was something I hadn't thought of.

 

I saw one of the hundred or so NASCAR shows on TV yesterday. The tech topic was brakes and brake cooling which is the only reason I didn't keep flipping the channel. They use inline fans on the short-track cars to help move the air along thru the cooling hoses. I would think if you had the right fan, you could put the air intake hose almost anywhere and not have to worry about it having to be forced in from the front of the car. Might check some of the stock car parts suppliers online to find them...

Thawley

 

I have a pair of carbon fiber ducts for the civic and crx for the 88-91 models.
cost is 300 for the ducts only, and you pull the air off from the bumper in 2 places depending on the bumper cover your using. If you have the "fog light" bumper cover 90-91 you can cut holes there, like the picture shown above, if your using the 89 bumper, like I had, I had to "massage" the frontal area of the core support to squeeze them into holes the factory left for you to use.
If you would like more info, call me, I'd be glad to help you.
330-721-6600

 

Chris, what do you use for the exit point at the rotor and caliper? Any photos?

Thawley

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phat-S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this a trick question? You are allowed two 3" holes to be cut into the front bumper cover.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

only problem i see with this pic is that the driver side duct in that position is SMACK right where the windshield washer fluid tank is, and totally obstructs any position of inlet duct and tubing. id like closer pics of anyone doing it like this successfully going around the tank, or id just assume the tank is not there, which, to many ppl, would be considered illegal, but please dont read this as a blind accusation (if anyone should care).

 

Nope, washer bottle is still there. Absolute pain in the *** to get the ducting back on the outlet on the back side past the bottle and life would be considerably easier if it wasn't. I think it was better with my first bumper than this one, the angle was ever so slightly down or out or whatever but it was less of a b****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I know. But since CMP is the only place I'll ever run brake ducts I was hoping for an alternative to sawing on the bumper cover. There probably isn't one, but I thought I'd ask and see if there was something I hadn't thought of.</TD></TR></TABLE>

IIRC, you're running a RRG front air dam. This would make it a little more difficult to run the ducting below the front bumper since I'm sure you don't want to modify the air dam. As you may have seen, I got around the washer bottle (and the rest of the IT rules) by running a slightly taller air dam and installing the ducting below the bottom lip of the 88 bumper. This has worked very well and only requires 7 small holes drilled in the bumper to hold the air dam. This would require that you remove the RRG airdam, however, so this idea may be too much trouble for a single event. As Roadracejunkie said, you may be able to squeeze them into the opening for the radiator and zip tie the ducts in place without much of an air scoop. However, I'm not sure how different the Civic and the CRX are in that area. In the CRX, as noted already, it would require some "massage."

 

travis, I run a RRG airdam/splitter as well and there is no problem placing the little scoopers on the backside of the bumper without modifying the airdam at all. All one would need to do to make life easier is shim up the top of the scoop where it makes contact w/ the bumper cover so it points a wee bit downward. I'd suggest you take your scoop, attach a piece of brake ducting to it, get under the car and with some of that tack putty that you hang a print with, attach it to the backside of the bumper so you have the right angle for the best clearance around the washer bottle. Take off the hose, leave on the scoop, take off the bumper and ink a line where you need to cut. You are allowed a 5x7 opening in the bumper cover (not an airdam) to attach a 3" duct.

 

I didn't think that thing went fast enough to use the brakes.

&lt;ducking&gt;

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaddMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't think that thing went fast enough to use the brakes.

&lt;ducking&gt;</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine? Nah, its just that the paddock at RA is hilly and that really works the brakes pretty hard getting her woe'd down entering the skidpad - I can't afford to hit a car or ... take out a dually's fender or something. They always say, if you can't fix it, duct it right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Scott's.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you can't fix it, duct it</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, no, no. If you can't fix it, duct *TAPE* it...

 

Its not, but CMP is... CMP.

Of course, I am ASSUMING I'll need the ducts there. Who knows, maybe I won't. My brakes haven't even come close to fading yet.
Yet.

 

I glazed XP8's there

No duckz, dust sheilds removed. Chasing down a M3 LTW on victoracers. I did not succeed

 

some how, my brakes worked best during the H-C race sunday. Strong pedal and zero fade. And I gotta have at least twice the hp and weight of your car Scott

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phat-S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">travis, I run a RRG airdam/splitter as well and there is no problem placing the little scoopers on the backside of the bumper without modifying the airdam at all. All one would need to do to make life easier is shim up the top of the scoop where it makes contact w/ the bumper cover so it points a wee bit downward. I'd suggest you take your scoop, attach a piece of brake ducting to it, get under the car and with some of that tack putty that you hang a print with, attach it to the backside of the bumper so you have the right angle for the best clearance around the washer bottle. Take off the hose, leave on the scoop, take off the bumper and ink a line where you need to cut. You are allowed a 5x7 opening in the bumper cover (not an airdam) to attach a 3" duct.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I understand that the RRG airdam doesn't get in the way of running the ducts behind the bumper. However, since Scott mentioned he didn't want to cut the bumper I was referring to how I ran the ducting below the bumper in my airdam, and that the RRG airdam would be in the way for that method.

-travis, who still doesn't understand the wording in the GCR about what holes you can cut, and has read it 100 times.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokin rubber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some how, my brakes worked best during the H-C race sunday. Strong pedal and zero fade. And I gotta have at least twice the hp and weight of your car Scott </TD></TR></TABLE>

The speed you are going is a LOT more important to brake fade than the weight of the car.

Energy (heat) = 1/2 x Mass x Velocity(squared)

so, double the weight and only double the HP means you are prob slower down the straights = less heat in the brakes.

 

Bringing this back from the dead.

I need help with the brake ducts on my 88 CRX Si and would like to see pictures. I searched a bunch but most of the pictures are not in the old threads anymore.

Thanks,

AJ

 

Just curious: why do you need ducts? Pad fade or fluid boiling?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious: why do you need ducts? Pad fade or fluid boiling?</TD></TR></TABLE>

because they quack and cool the brakes better

 

PICS are GOOOOOOD!

 

Curious &lt;