I already put my motor in my crx and my dude is selling a dc 4-1 header for 100 bucks but it was off a 00 si b16 will it still fit on mine since its a b16a1.?

 

Should fit, I think all the B16 deck heights were the same. It would be different if it came off a B18C1/C5

 

will it fit with the crossmember or do i have to take the whole engine out

 

nah it should fit with the crossmember in place. If it doesn't its easier to remove the crossmember or radiator than a whole engine

 

i have a focuz 4-2-1 header know will i notice a big difference with a dc 4-1 and where should the other bung hole be welded on it

 

pull the rad, drain it, undo the hoses, undo the fan wire. Then theres 2 clips holding it on the top, they each take 2 10mm bolts, undo them and the rad pulls up. Then the cross member, i think each side has 2 17mm bolts, then undo the radius rods, (i used a deep 11/16 socket or something) there not that tight. Then its kinda hard to slide on and off the radius rods. I did it about a hundred times because i had to modify my crossmember to clear my header (you might) so it took a few times to check clearance.

Header probably wont be the proper length to bolt to the cat, might need some work down there.

Installation is opostite of taking it apart.

-Eric

 

Why do you have to pull the rad? The rad is attached to the unibody, not the crossmember.

 

don't waste your time on the radiator. drop the x-member and you're ready to install. you will have to beat the **** out of the stock x-member to make it clear the header.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you have to pull the rad? The rad is attached to the unibody, not the crossmember.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is just the way i did it so i could get in there to mark it better though the front, mine required some cutting then welding.

Cutting the cross member is fine, i cut and welded it, i can jack up my car from the cross member with the jack in the middle of the cross member. Dosent flex an inch (that with no front mount attached).

Its all good.

-Eric

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Header probably wont be the proper length to bolt to the cat, might need some work down there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This all depends. The interesting thing here is that if nothing has been changed, length will be perfect! The problems arise because 99.999% of B16A swappers (into 1988-1991 Civics and CRXs, that is) use the 1G JDM B16A. With this motor, the length of the exhaust has to be changed to bolt the downpipe to the cat. So when you add a 1999-2000 SI or 1994-1997 Del Sol VTEC header, length is once again incorrect. But if either (1) you are just swapping in the engine and have not modified anything on the exhaust, (2) you used a 1992+ B16A manifold/downpipe instead of the 1G JDM pieces, or (3) you are using a 1992+ JDM or USDM B16A, no modifications will be required.

 

it should fit with modification to your crossmember, depending on the mounts you are using, i took a good 1.5-2" out of mine to clear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This all depends. The interesting thing here is that if nothing has been changed, length will be perfect! The problems arise because 99.999% of B16A swappers (into 1988-1991 Civics and CRXs, that is) use the 1G JDM B16A. With this motor, the length of the exhaust has to be changed to bolt the downpipe to the cat. So when you add a 1999-2000 SI or 1994-1997 Del Sol VTEC header, length is once again incorrect. But if either (1) you are just swapping in the engine and have not modified anything on the exhaust, (2) you used a 1992+ B16A manifold/downpipe instead of the 1G JDM pieces, or (3) you are using a 1992+ JDM or USDM B16A, no modifications will be required.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know when i put on my 4-1 header with 2.5" collector i had to weld tons of **** to make it work. I had to shorten the exhaust first, then i had to get a huge dougnut sealer and flange, drill it out differently, then weld that onto 3 reducers and weld the reducer on my cat, then bolt the **** back up. It was a PITA, considering i didnt take the exhaust off the car when i did it.

-Eric

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I know when i put on my 4-1 header with 2.5" collector i had to weld tons of **** to make it work. I had to shorten the exhaust first, then i had to get a huge dougnut sealer and flange, drill it out differently, then weld that onto 3 reducers and weld the reducer on my cat, then bolt the **** back up. It was a PITA, considering i didnt take the exhaust off the car when i did it.

-Eric</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have access to a welder by any chance ???

 

i already have a aftermarket header on there and exhaust system.. so your saying the dc header is longer than the header i have know? causing me to take another trip to the muffler shop