1994 Accord Ex
159,985
4 cyl, V-Tec

Got this car from a lady who was going to junk it - daughters trashed it up a bit. Car was not maintained well, and it was hit twice, but not hard, more cosmetic than serious. I'm far more concerned about the mechanical condition, though. Filthiest air filter I ever saw (black soot - probably reason for high carbon/compression reading 185-200 [cold comp test]). S. Plugs center electrode almost worn away. Fan switch by stat had to be jumped to get fan working. Filthy engine oil and trans oil too.

I replaced all the above myself; drained trans fluid and replaced w/Honda Auto Trans fluid; No codes of any kind and body and interior are nice. Needs some front end body work cosmetic damage, probably a hood; Pass door was hit in the center but it functions ok (will fix that last); Unitbody frame is ok and everything lines up ok. Exhaust and brakes good shape. Engine runs well.

A friend of mine who owns a shop that works on Honda's and Audi's, did a hydrocarbon test for me and looked the car over. He is an honest type of person. He said it has a very slight head gasket leak (low readout numbers); two bad drive axles; and the water pump is leaking badly (I drove the car into him and was paranoid the pump would fail, and take out the valves but he said it was next to none that would happen and it didn't).

Car smokes a little when starting but not much and it goes away rather quickly. He said he would not put any money into it for the head repair ($500 his price). He said it should last a year or two before any serious trouble from the head.

But he would do the timing belt water pump and all related seals, etc., everything in that area ($350 for entire job, not sure if its with Honda or aftermarket parts). It also needs two drive axles. He said he uses some quality Japanese brand of rebuilt axles that he claims rebuilds them for Honda anyway ($100 for ea drive axle and $100 labor).

I have the Haynes manual and after looking at it, I feel it is worthless piece of s___! The typos and erroneous info are replete throughout the manual. I need a Helms or a Honda repair manual - but which is really the best? I keep reading archives that advocate for both manuals (but I'm not buying both), and some archives say there is no difference! Opinion from anyone who has both?

Anyway, this same mechanic knows I have been working on Volvos for a few years now, and he thinks I should do the TB/Water Pump job, with all the seals, etc, everything in that area of the engine. He thinks I should fix it up and sell it to a college kid for a good deal. He doesn't trust the car to last. He thinks it has too many miles on it to warrant any investment. I got most of the tools (but not any Honda SST's) and the desire. However, I have a few reservations about doing this work:

One, I am very busy with a home repair, two Volvos, a Toyota MR2, and a DIY court case (I used to be a law clerk). I'm not married and I have to do all my own cooking and cleaning and grocery shopping. I live with my Brother but there is no place to park the Honda and just do the work as I can. Unless he goes on vacation for a week (not likely, he just came back from one), then all I get is from Friday morning to Sunday night to do the job in his garage. I'm sure he would extend it if an emergency happened but he always bitches about it, so I would rather avoid hearing his s___! I have done TB on a 91 Volvo, and a water pump on an 89 Volvo.

Something is just not sitting right with me about doing it myself, yet I feel uncomfortable spending $350 for labor. $350 buys lots of nice tools. Lets see what else? ... oh yeah, I am also a magnet for Murphy's law. If I do this job, there is no doubt in my mind that something will cause me serious problems ... I'm already guessing it will be when I start getting to the sprockets or the seals. The pump looks easy; Volvos water pumps are much harder to do, but the TB's on Volvos are a piece of cake and the older Volvos have tons of room to work in. Point is that this all puts me under too much pressure. If I was less busy and/or did the job before, and/or had the time and space to jack it up, put it on stands, and do it at my leisure, one step at a time, then I'm sure it would only be half as troublesome. Then again, maybe I need other opinions form people who might have been in my situation at one time.


thanks,
diyer

 

is this your only car? None of the repairs that you need to perform are very complicated; however if it is your first time working on the car you should leave time for any complications that may arrise.

$350 sounds like a good price for the water pump, gaskets, and T belt job, but $200 to replace each axle is rather hefty.

Sounds like you have the mechanical apptitude to get the job done. Now just jump in there and do it! You have found an excellent network of experience and knowledge here at Honda-tech to help you through your problems.

Good luck

 

"[QUOTE=SearchBeforeUPost!]"

No, this is not my only car. But the Toyota (which has a blown head) is occupying the only available parking space on our property and since there is no other place to park the honda, I am forced to do the job in the garage from friday morning to sunday night - plenty of ample time IF you did the repair before.

The other problem is the question on which is the better manual? If you have a Haynes manual, #42013, Honda Accord, 1994 thru 1997, all models, turn to page 2A-11, #8. It says " ... draw a simple diagram showing the location and length of the bolts so they can be" Now turn the page for the remainder of the sentence and where the ______ (bleep) is the rest of it. This damn thing is replete with typos and nonsense. All Haynes is doing is a bunch of idiotic cutting and pasting without editing the manuals. They have a disclaimer in the manual, but I think this is so grossly incompetent I hope the hell they get sued someday. People can get hurt when important information is missing.

I need a Helms or a Honda repair manual - but which is really the best? I keep reading archives that advocate for both manuals (but I'm not buying both), and some archives say there is no difference! I need to hear from someone who has both?

I did do a search in the archives. I think I am just struggling far more with being too busy and having to do the repair quickly than I am with the actual mechanical repair. I think the pressure of having to do it "within a certain time frame" as opposed to "it will take as much time as it takes" kind of situation. I think that's where I could run into problems.

"... but $200 to replace each axle is rather hefty ..." Its not $200 for each axle - its $100 for both.

" ... Sounds like you have the mechanical apptitude to get the job done. Now just jump in there and do it! You have found an excellent network of experience and knowledge here at Honda-tech to help you through your problems."

Its ironic. Last year my Mom's AC went south on her Volvo, and the AC shops and techs all said the AC ECU had to be replaced and could not be repaired. I tore the dash apart and yanked the ECU out and took it apart - darn thing even had hoses in it as well as wires and all these connectors. Anyway, I have this theory about electronics, and even though I had no manual or any computer coeds I did what they all said could not be done, I actually fixed the AC ECU. Pathetic huh, I did that and I'm worried about this job!

diyer

 

As a professional auto repair tech, I'm under huge pressures to get jobs done everyday on time. You know how you feel if your car is not done when promised? Replacing the water pump, t-belt, tensioner assembly and related seals is a real straight forward job. The only special tool required is the crankshaft pulley holder. You WILL need this tool to remove the crank shaft bolt. You should be able to borrow one from a local Auto Zone or Checker-Schucks-Kragen if they have a tool loaner program. You can put a cash deposit on the tool and keep it as long as you need. As far as typos in your repair manuals go, most of the time the manuals are copied directly from the OEM service manuals. You should try to read ones that are translated from other languages!!! Somehow something always gets lost in the translation!! If you are reserved about doing this work yourself, leave it to a professional. The money you spend for having someone qualified to the repairs is money well spent. Messing up a timing belt install can really screw up some expensive engine parts. (valves, pistons etc.) You have found an excellent source of information here at Honda-tech.com/ If you run into any problems or have any questions about any Honda repairs you are trying to do yourself, this is the place to get the answers. It's your call, your money and your time. If you have any questions, feel free to email me! Good luck!

 

Hmm…

Any car that you can buy, put minimal work into, and sell for $500 or so in profit is a good deal, so it sounds like your Honda will work out for you (I’m assuming you picked it up for real cheap). What I would do would be to replace what I could, cleaning up the interior and exterior as best I could, maybe have the mechanic do some currently necessary work that I couldn’t do, and then sell it ASAP. You don’t need four cars, besides you don’t have a parking spot for it.

By the way, what Volvos do you have? I have a ’93 945T, besides my ’99 Honda Accord.

As for the Haynes manual, I’ve never had a problem, though I have had problems with the Chiltons for a car I used to have, been a Haynes man ever since.

 

"[QUOTE=Heat] By the way, what Volvos do you have? I have a ’93 945T, besides my ’99 Honda Accord."

That is a good vehicle you have. Love those B230F engines (built like tanks, swedish steel - will go a million miles with TLC). Let me know if you have any Q's about the Volvo. Email me at <diyer999@aol.com> Where you located?

Have you ever done the water pump or the TB job on your Volvo? I have and I'm wondering how that job compares to this Honda (94, Accord EX, VTEC)?


I have an 89, 245. Mom has a 91, 740 Regina Ign system. We had 91 turbo 745 but sold it. Currently we only have two operational cars. I like to keep extar cars around for when another one breaks. I'm planning on getting a Bike just for fun. The MR2 is just for fun too. I could use a hummer or an SUV, perhaps a Jeep, but since I don't live in the Mtns, I figure it would be overkill. I love BMWs and I will probably sell the Honda and the 91 Volvo to get one.

But I will tell you this. I am extremely impressed with how well this HONDA ACCORD EX is built. If Honda had made a rear wheel drive car similar to BMW, I would probably be getting one of those instead. I'm speaking about used cars. I don't like em until they have at least 100k on them (not broken in yet).

diyer

 

Ten four. Thanks for the reply.

diyer

 

I'm aware of the importance of double checking to stay on TDC and matching up all the pulley marks for all sprockets. I'm more worried about any tricks to removing the sprockets or removing/installing the seals. I never did a seal yet, even on the Volvos. An old timer Bosch tech told me that seals have a tendency to wear a groove in the crankshaft, and even though you think you are doing the good thing replacing them, that worn spot creates leak problems even for new seals. I find Murphy's law is always on my back and if I do not look into each and every little nuance of a job, Murphy's rear his ugly head, and I'm lucky if I get away without breaking anything or making things a whole lot worse. But yet I wouldn't hesitate to take a computer apart and fix it, which drives most techs nuts. Go figure?

Btw, if I need to replace the drive axles as a whole assembly, out with he old and in with the new, is this a good time to take that area apart before I take the TB water pump out. I noticed in a picture someone downloaded that the drive axle was kind of in the way and close to this area. It might give me more room to work and let more light into that area (I like natural light when possible). Anyway, if that is a yes, I could replace the axles as a last step. Opinions?

thanks,
diyer

 

I just picked up the Volvo from my brother-in-law about six weeks ago, he just picked up a Volvo XC90. I haven had to do anything yet other than putting in an Alpine CD player and replacing the power antenna (just $22 for the new antenna, the old one wouldn’t extend all of the way).

He had the water pump and radiator replaced in the past year, as well as replacing all of the belts and hoses. It's a nice car, and I can carry stuff in it (I just carried four long tables and four chairs in it the other night, with all of the doors closed (nothing sticking out)). I could have taken them on my Honda with my Thule roof rack, but it was easier just to slide them into the wagon.

Thanks for the invite to answer questions, I read http://www.brickboard.com on a daily basis to keep up on what is happening to other people’s 9XX series cars.

I’ll keep the Volvo for two or three more years, then sell it and buy a new family vehicle (either a Honda Odyssey, a Volvo V70, or a Passat wagon, the Volvo and Passat with 5-speed manual transmission, of course). At that point the ’99 Honda Accord would become my commuter.