Ok, I'm takin a stab at the crazies in the FI forum to see if you can shed some light so I don't screw myself over.

Specs: 88 dx hatch w/pre-obd b16 swap, near stock intake/exhaust (college took my money) and plans to supercharge

Problem: I checked my spark plugs the other day for the heck of it (1/2 yr old Denso Irdiums) and saw that they had a nice white look all over them...leaned out. My timing is set at 17* of advance (15+or- two is stock recomm.) and it always gets 93 octance.

So, since the car see's daily driver, college transporter duty (200+ mi. trips every so often) I think it wouldn't be a bad idea to just go ahead and replace the fuel pump this summer. Well, lucky me a google search pulled up a classifieds for Walbro pumps

(click pic for link)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We are selling the 190, 255, and 255High Pressure pumps and installation kits with FREE SHIPPING for $79, $89, and $99 respectively.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dang good deal huh? They have my car listed on their site also (lightningmotorsports) with a installation kit. What all does the "kit" include usually? Basically what I'm wondering is if I buy this if there's anything else I'm going to need to mod for the pump to work right.

Cliffsnotes: I think I may need a fuel pump for my high mileage swapped hatch, if not it's still good insurance. I wonder if there will be a suprise to this project, and which (lph) should I get for a near stock, but plans for supercharger on down the road?

think that's it....

 

If you know you're going FI down the road I'd go ahead and get the 255. Any excess fuel will just go back into the tank. Larry

 

255lph should plenty good for your setup. The Walbro kit usually includes the pump, the filter, a snap/retainer ring, and sometimes electrical connectors. Make sure you get the right one for your car, because you don't want the pump and the filter facing the wrong direction.

With the 255lph, your idle will be on the rich side. That's because the Honda factory fuel regulator does not have a large enough fuel return.

 

here's my dyno plot i finally found. they misspelled my last name so redded it out


torque is low, but flat, a/f goes lean on me

Are you sure it will be primarily the idle which will run on the rich side? I guess with the 255 lph pump I should go ahead and get the adj. FPR and accomadating fuel rail also, since the supercharger uses the newere one anyways.

 

Stock fuel pump is good for at least 300 hp. So you decide what's best.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green_GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the 255lph, your idle will be on the rich side. That's because the Honda factory fuel regulator does not have a large enough fuel return.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe I'm just a dummy, but what are the downsides to this? I know plugs can get fouled also, but what else? Bad MPG?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green_GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the 255lph, your idle will be on the rich side. That's because the Honda factory fuel regulator does not have a large enough fuel return.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Funny...I've heard that the stock honda fuel system is good for up to around 400HP.

 

really, well one side is sayin get a adj. FPR, along with the pump, which will also make me need the fuel rail since the pre-obd motor is apparently funky w/aftermarket fpr's

any more others, besides i "heard"?

 

I'd talk to Stan [HT alias Flamenco-T]...he's who told me what the stock system was capable of. He carries all sorts of fuel lines and has a wealth of info...I'm sure he could help you out.

Didn't mean to get your panties in a bunch, just relaying info.

 

i got my 255 from titan for 75$

also you can bore out the stock rail, unless you really want that bling bling.

 

Personally I'de stick with a stock fuel pump until I get the FI setup ready

You want a FPR with a 1:1 rise rate

also the 255lph fuel pump will actually be pushing ALOT of fuel to the regulator and it SURE WILL cause you to run very rich.

Correct me if I am wrong but.

the fuel pump gets a message from the ecu telling it to send fuel. Doesn't tell the fuel pump HOW MUCH fuel to send. the FPR controls how much fuel is really spread through out the fuel rail and into the injectors. Then the ECU tells the injectors of how much fuel to spray inside for the mixture.


Think of the worst possibilities:

#1: Maybe it'll flood the fuel system with fuel.
#2: Maybe it'll clog up inside somewhere
#3: Maybe it'll make your injectors run at 100% duty cycle and you will run EXTREMELY rich.

#4: Yet, MAYBE when the fuel pump is on, it will pump the fuel through the lines and come to the fpr where it will be controlled as to HOW much fuel is sent through.

I am just taking a guess here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Didn't mean to get your panties in a bunch, just relaying info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah, you didn't I pm'ed that dude to see if he can yack something down.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_ek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally I'de stick with a stock fuel pump until I get the FI setup ready</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good guesses there, that's about what I was thinking. I guess I could just knock the timing back down to 15* of advance and see if that'll help. Car runs fine, just not like I'd want it to. I was gonna do some bodywork finally, but eh, the motor bug is bitin hard.

A different fuel rail is needed in order for the fuel pressure regulator to clear the manifold. The blower-to-manifold allen bolt heads are NOT 8mm (like the instructions say). So if you're buying tools ahead of time, they require a 6mm allen head.

/\ fuel rail reason taken from keebler65's h-t writeup http://home.mn.rr.com/keebler6....html


Modified by B16_madman at 12:47 AM 4/22/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Funny...I've heard that the stock honda fuel system is good for up to around 400HP.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The fuel return line is good for 400hp, but it's the factory fuel regulator or the B&M adjustable fuel regulator (the one that modifes the factory regulator) can't relieve the fuel fast enough. Imagine the fuel pump is pumping 255lph while your car is just idling using next to no fuel. So if the fuel regulator couldn't relieve the fuel quick enough, the fuel rail pressure will increase, causing rich condition at idle.

Here is a good article regarding running high flow pumps on Honda's.
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/regulator/

 

Ah...I understand now. Now I'm a little worried. I'm using the B&M unit, and a Walbro pump. My static fuel pressure is pretty high compared to stock [around 56psi]. Should I heavily consider upgrading to a better FPR? Any suggestions?

*edit*

Just read that link...very helpful info. I think I may do that hole drilling in my stock FPR.

 

I wouldn't worry about getting a real good aftermarket FPR... a good FPR aren't cheap. If you have something like a standalone or even a VAFC to lean out the fuel at idle, then there's nothing to worry about