Hey folks. Seems like this must have been covered, but I didn't find anything w/ a search, so here goes:

I'm planning the buildup of a B20 shortblock to mate w/ a B16 head (stock for now, but not for long). I want to be able to reliably rev the motor to 8k at least, if not higher (8,500 would be nice, but certainly no higher than that). So far my plans include either probe or IB rods, ~11.5:1 pistons, gsr/itr girdle... and thats pretty much it.

Seems like I'd need to do a little more to get a safe 8-8.5k redline out of a b20 shortblock... what else do you suggest?

TIA

 

the parts list looks pretty good.
I am not a real big fan of B20/vtec setups, since the cylinder walls are actually weaker than the LS block.

a straight LS/VTEC combo will be good enough and much cheaper too. There is a slight advantage on the b20 due to the displacement, and it will give a bit more HP on the setup. But I'd rather save up a bit more and sleeve a B18A and work on that.

 

I'm aware of the relative disadvantage of the B20 sleeves, but I figure if I keep the compression ratio within reason (which I need to do anyway because of gas quality), I shouldn't have any problems.

Sleeving the shortblock turns me off for two reasons: 1) its more money than I care to spend, 2) it really shouldn't be necessary for a relatively mild setup such as this.

any more suggestions?

 

up.

c'mon folks. Seems like I'd need more than just rods, pistons and a girdle... what else?

 

Your parts looks good. I would put oil squirters if you don't already have them. I would also flare the head on the B16 to reduce hotspots in the chamber and get myself a set of ARP studs

 

so a girdle and rods is really all it takes? Thanks for the suggestions guys... Keep it coming.

:edit: yeah, and I was planning on using arp fasteners wherever possible... but thanks.


:edit: :edit: and I'm not really sure how to get oil squirters into a block that didn't come with them... Input?

 

How about block guard...It's been getting mixed reviews from this site.

 

I really don't think a block guard or sleeves should be necessary for this setup. I'm only running 11:1-11.5:1 compression so its not like I'll be running cylinder pressures sky-high....

I'm more concerned with the rotating assembly being up to the 8-8.5k redline I'm shooting for.

 

back up...

So no balancing of the B20 crank, no knife-edging... none of that business... just decent rods/pistons and a girdle?

Aside from arp fasteners, what else should I be looking into?


And again, I'm not a fan of blockguards, and I'm assuming sleeving wont be necessary on a 11-11.5:1 motor.

More thoughts please

 

it seems to me like everytime someone gives u their opinion u just shoot it down if u keep being like that then no one will wanna give u advice but ill give u mine anyway pistons are good but u dont have to have new rods since ur only gonna be doin a mild setup like u put it just get some arp rod bolts and shotpeen the rods and ull be fine. i dont really like block girdles but its ur motor do what u want just make sure u balance the whole rotating assembly so u can rev that high safely other than that make sure u have all the bearings and vtec water and oil pumps and timing belt and u should be set


edit: if i seem alittle pissed off its cuz i hate my job

 

thanks for the input I don't mean to be shooting down ideas... sorry if it comes across like that. I'm under the impression that a ~11-11.5:1, ~8k rpm setup wont require sleeves or block guard, but if I'm wrong, please correct me. (I've been told that stock B20 sleeves can hold up to 12.5:1 c/r cylinder pressures).

also, I have recieved advice from a couple people not to fawk with the girdle.... Why is this? What are the drawbacks of the girdle?

If you think shotpeened LS/B20 rods are good enough, thats great... but I was under the impression that its best to use aftermarket rods with aftermarket pistons... and aftermarket pistons are the only thing that'll get me the kinda compression ratio I'm looking for. Again, if thats not the case, please enlighten me.

I appreciate the comments, guys.


:edit: caught a few typos... sorry, I'm ****.


Modified by white_n_slow at 5:56 AM 4/22/2004

 

just balance the whole block assembly.. crank, flywheel, pressure plate and disk, pulley, your pistons w/ arp bolts and you shotpeened rods... freak the blockguard, and yes b20 blocks can handle up to 12.5:1cr.. shi* i've seen 13.5:1 on stock sleeves.. remember, detonation kills sleeves.. get that shi* tuned asap.. i hope this helps man.. good luck on the build up..

 

thanks.

Any elaboration on the block girdle? good idea/bad idea?

Also any input on the oil squirter idea? I did a search, and it got pretty mixed reviews.

 

run a girdle to be safe.. on the oil squirters, are we talking B20 here? .. dunno bout that one... you have to fab one up for the non-vtec blocks.. IMO--->"not worth it" i have seen a member on h-t do it tho'... but not me ... later

 

yeah, I got the impession that it was a PITA to rig up... and everybody was split about 50:50 on wether it was helpful or harmful... I may just forget about it.

 

up for more input. I appreciate it, guys.

 

theoldone.com did a b20vtec setup with a gsr head. definately worth reading. will give you the info you kinda need, although i thought it was more of a story than write up. im also lookin for like directions to this b20vtec. i have no idea how to set the b20 block up for vtec. the oil lines and stuff. i get lost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white_n_slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">up.

c'mon folks. Seems like I'd need more than just rods, pistons and a girdle... what else?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a CR/vtec dude...

b16a/b20z... running on 11.5:1 compression...

NEways, after 7200rpm.. I loose power.... its like I have no more umph...

I heard that Toda Cams... would do the trick.... but their too $$ I'm thinking about getting some Buddy Club cams...

 

Why do people say balance the stupid clutch disk and pressure plate? First off, the disk wears, which will throw off your balance. Secondly, if you balance the crank according to the weight of the pressure plate, soon as you change clutches, you are out of balance. And the pully isn't that big a deal, it is so centeral to the center line of the crank, it really has no effect on balance either way.

Now, if I were you get the girdle. Dowel the main studs it sits on, all 6 holes, because if you don't, it is just like not adding it at all. After that is installed, have the machine shop align hone the crank mains. If you don't want to go through that trouble, don't use the girdle. Balance your rod/piston combo, and use ARP bolts on them (but honestly after you pay to resize the rods because of the rod bolts, and shot peen them, you might as well get a set of eagles with the 3/8 bolts and be much safer). You can use Honda head bolts, no biggie since you aren't running super high compression. Installing the oil squierters is more trouble than it is worth, and I would skip it since you are going with a forged piston anyway. Keep the revs below 8200 and you should be fine. Also, get a ITR manifold, and a decent flowing header (ITR 4-1), 2.0L engines flow quite a bit more air than a b16. CTR cams work pretty good, at least they did on my B20/VTEC when I had it running (200hp/153tq).