DC Header 4-2-1 $150
I just had my exhaust put on yesterday,gsr dc sports exhaust,with carsound cat welded onto the piping,then extended too the header.Its a pretty good flowing system i have, i just want too compliment with a header.I can get a dc-4-2-1 stainless steel for 150.I was wondering if this will be a pretty good investment for the price?I didnt really see much of a gain with intake and exhaust so far.Maybe in the upper range,but then again i still have the stock header.
id say thats a good price for a DC. depends how used it is. if new, id jump on it.
im going to pay $285 for a new one for my DA. is it ceramic or stainless. stainless costs more than ceramic too.
im going to pay $285 for a new one for my DA. is it ceramic or stainless. stainless costs more than ceramic too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You get what you pay for.......
If you want to see gains, spend more money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not necessarily true
the dc sports one is pretty nice especially if it's stainless steel
where are you getting it cuz that's a great price?
If you want to see gains, spend more money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not necessarily true
the dc sports one is pretty nice especially if it's stainless steel
where are you getting it cuz that's a great price?
for 150$ that is a good price but remember than 4-1 is better high end.
Also what size is the dc cat back 2.36? and your cat?--2.25?
However, there are better headers out there to choose from
Also what size is the dc cat back 2.36? and your cat?--2.25?
However, there are better headers out there to choose from
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phatintegra0734 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not necessarily true
the dc sports one is pretty nice especially if it's stainless steel
where are you getting it cuz that's a great price?</TD></TR></TABLE>
excatly the mugen header is 900 bux.. well around there.. makes one more hp diff then a dc sport.. ive seen an actual dyno...
not necessarily true
the dc sports one is pretty nice especially if it's stainless steel
where are you getting it cuz that's a great price?</TD></TR></TABLE>
excatly the mugen header is 900 bux.. well around there.. makes one more hp diff then a dc sport.. ive seen an actual dyno...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DRAG lll INTEGRA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
excatly the mugen header is 900 bux.. well around there.. makes one more hp diff then a dc sport.. ive seen an actual dyno...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright, you've seen ONE dyno where it made a 1hp difference. What other mods were on the car? Was it a lego build or was this a well constructed all motor car?
Lots of thing have to do with the gains on an all motor vehicle. You can't throw Skunk2 Stage 3 cams on a stock GSR and expect that thing to race around like a rocket with huge gains in whp. You'll lose power because you don't actually have the correct compression to get the gains, and your stock gsr valvetrain won't allow you to use the cams higher lift. You also have to have other mods to open up that air flow. Meaning headwork, 2.5" header back setup in a free flowing exhaust, etc. There is so much to it.
Read the articles on team-integra.net. Learn something about building a all motor setup and why you can't just throw one part in with another and expect gains. You have to build your setup as a whole, not in pieces. You should have a particular order in which you present your setup. Everything must coexist to get the most out of it.
I'd like to see this dyno. I'd also like to see this car that they dyno'd. Also, was it the only change done? I find it hard to believe if it was, I also find it VERY HARD to believe it was done on a car with a strong all motor setup. It was probably some GSR w/ intake and exhaust.
A high priced header is worth the gains, if you know what your doing and you know how to piece together a setup. I had a GSR that cranked out 190whp untuned on ITR cams. Now thats very very tough to do. Unless you build your engine package nearly perfect to mate with your other mods.
do some reading......
excatly the mugen header is 900 bux.. well around there.. makes one more hp diff then a dc sport.. ive seen an actual dyno...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright, you've seen ONE dyno where it made a 1hp difference. What other mods were on the car? Was it a lego build or was this a well constructed all motor car?
Lots of thing have to do with the gains on an all motor vehicle. You can't throw Skunk2 Stage 3 cams on a stock GSR and expect that thing to race around like a rocket with huge gains in whp. You'll lose power because you don't actually have the correct compression to get the gains, and your stock gsr valvetrain won't allow you to use the cams higher lift. You also have to have other mods to open up that air flow. Meaning headwork, 2.5" header back setup in a free flowing exhaust, etc. There is so much to it.
Read the articles on team-integra.net. Learn something about building a all motor setup and why you can't just throw one part in with another and expect gains. You have to build your setup as a whole, not in pieces. You should have a particular order in which you present your setup. Everything must coexist to get the most out of it.
I'd like to see this dyno. I'd also like to see this car that they dyno'd. Also, was it the only change done? I find it hard to believe if it was, I also find it VERY HARD to believe it was done on a car with a strong all motor setup. It was probably some GSR w/ intake and exhaust.
A high priced header is worth the gains, if you know what your doing and you know how to piece together a setup. I had a GSR that cranked out 190whp untuned on ITR cams. Now thats very very tough to do. Unless you build your engine package nearly perfect to mate with your other mods.
do some reading......
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=838521
I have DC header for sale at 150!
I have DC header for sale at 150!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Alright, you've seen ONE dyno where it made a 1hp difference. What other mods were on the car? Was it a lego build or was this a well constructed all motor car?
Lots of thing have to do with the gains on an all motor vehicle. You can't throw Skunk2 Stage 3 cams on a stock GSR and expect that thing to race around like a rocket with huge gains in whp. You'll lose power because you don't actually have the correct compression to get the gains, and your stock gsr valvetrain won't allow you to use the cams higher lift. You also have to have other mods to open up that air flow. Meaning headwork, 2.5" header back setup in a free flowing exhaust, etc. There is so much to it.
Read the articles on team-integra.net. Learn something about building a all motor setup and why you can't just throw one part in with another and expect gains. You have to build your setup as a whole, not in pieces. You should have a particular order in which you present your setup. Everything must coexist to get the most out of it.
I'd like to see this dyno. I'd also like to see this car that they dyno'd. Also, was it the only change done? I find it hard to believe if it was, I also find it VERY HARD to believe it was done on a car with a strong all motor setup. It was probably some GSR w/ intake and exhaust.
A high priced header is worth the gains, if you know what your doing and you know how to piece together a setup. I had a GSR that cranked out 190whp untuned on ITR cams. Now thats very very tough to do. Unless you build your engine package nearly perfect to mate with your other mods.
do some reading......</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed...goals are needed and lego building leads to power lost etc
its not hard to believe that that one car with lets say a dc header & dc exhaust makes 150 hp while the a 2000$ hytech system on that same car will make 151 hp--on lets say are fairly stock motor.
What patdemps was trying to get at I think is when you start adding more mods. each mod you put on will be greatly affected. Lets say to add skunk2 stage 2 cams to each car. You might get 10 hp out of the hytech exuast car because it responds well. While on the other hand you have lego building with the dc system and only gain 4 hp. As you keep lego building (adding more parts) you could gain a measily 15 hp with 2500$ worth of mods. Or you can look further down the road, plan your mods and goals and gain 30-40 hp with parts that match each other well.
*Numbers are just examples*
Alright, you've seen ONE dyno where it made a 1hp difference. What other mods were on the car? Was it a lego build or was this a well constructed all motor car?
Lots of thing have to do with the gains on an all motor vehicle. You can't throw Skunk2 Stage 3 cams on a stock GSR and expect that thing to race around like a rocket with huge gains in whp. You'll lose power because you don't actually have the correct compression to get the gains, and your stock gsr valvetrain won't allow you to use the cams higher lift. You also have to have other mods to open up that air flow. Meaning headwork, 2.5" header back setup in a free flowing exhaust, etc. There is so much to it.
Read the articles on team-integra.net. Learn something about building a all motor setup and why you can't just throw one part in with another and expect gains. You have to build your setup as a whole, not in pieces. You should have a particular order in which you present your setup. Everything must coexist to get the most out of it.
I'd like to see this dyno. I'd also like to see this car that they dyno'd. Also, was it the only change done? I find it hard to believe if it was, I also find it VERY HARD to believe it was done on a car with a strong all motor setup. It was probably some GSR w/ intake and exhaust.
A high priced header is worth the gains, if you know what your doing and you know how to piece together a setup. I had a GSR that cranked out 190whp untuned on ITR cams. Now thats very very tough to do. Unless you build your engine package nearly perfect to mate with your other mods.
do some reading......</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed...goals are needed and lego building leads to power lost etc
its not hard to believe that that one car with lets say a dc header & dc exhaust makes 150 hp while the a 2000$ hytech system on that same car will make 151 hp--on lets say are fairly stock motor.
What patdemps was trying to get at I think is when you start adding more mods. each mod you put on will be greatly affected. Lets say to add skunk2 stage 2 cams to each car. You might get 10 hp out of the hytech exuast car because it responds well. While on the other hand you have lego building with the dc system and only gain 4 hp. As you keep lego building (adding more parts) you could gain a measily 15 hp with 2500$ worth of mods. Or you can look further down the road, plan your mods and goals and gain 30-40 hp with parts that match each other well.
*Numbers are just examples*
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xx dc2teg xx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
agreed...goals are needed and lego building leads to power lost etc
its not hard to believe that that one car with lets say a dc header & dc exhaust makes 150 hp while the a 2000$ hytech system on that same car will make 151 hp--on lets say are fairly stock motor.
What patdemps was trying to get at I think is when you start adding more mods. each mod you put on will be greatly affected. Lets say to add skunk2 stage 2 cams to each car. You might get 10 hp out of the hytech exuast car because it responds well. While on the other hand you have lego building with the dc system and only gain 4 hp. As you keep lego building (adding more parts) you could gain a measily 15 hp with 2500$ worth of mods. Or you can look further down the road, plan your mods and goals and gain 30-40 hp with parts that match each other well.
*Numbers are just examples*</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats pretty much a wrapup of what I meant. Just in other terms trying to make it easier to understand. Some people just don't get it when it comes to modding a car. Thats why you have so many people dissapointed in their results or they are just worried about their PEAK WHP when a car with less PEAK WHP can beat that car with the same driver because the one with less power actually has a better "powerband" and was tuned properly. If your racing your not at your peak whp the entire race, your in your powerband. Therefore, you should tune to that and brag about having a mean powerband instead of having a 180 ricer whp but my damn curve sucks ***.
A lot of people need to read up on team-integra.net. You will learn a ton.
agreed...goals are needed and lego building leads to power lost etc
its not hard to believe that that one car with lets say a dc header & dc exhaust makes 150 hp while the a 2000$ hytech system on that same car will make 151 hp--on lets say are fairly stock motor.
What patdemps was trying to get at I think is when you start adding more mods. each mod you put on will be greatly affected. Lets say to add skunk2 stage 2 cams to each car. You might get 10 hp out of the hytech exuast car because it responds well. While on the other hand you have lego building with the dc system and only gain 4 hp. As you keep lego building (adding more parts) you could gain a measily 15 hp with 2500$ worth of mods. Or you can look further down the road, plan your mods and goals and gain 30-40 hp with parts that match each other well.
*Numbers are just examples*</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats pretty much a wrapup of what I meant. Just in other terms trying to make it easier to understand. Some people just don't get it when it comes to modding a car. Thats why you have so many people dissapointed in their results or they are just worried about their PEAK WHP when a car with less PEAK WHP can beat that car with the same driver because the one with less power actually has a better "powerband" and was tuned properly. If your racing your not at your peak whp the entire race, your in your powerband. Therefore, you should tune to that and brag about having a mean powerband instead of having a 180 ricer whp but my damn curve sucks ***.
A lot of people need to read up on team-integra.net. You will learn a ton.
by the way.....
that header is a good find for $150 if its in good condition. definately a steal....hopefully it all works out for you. im just suggesting if your smart and your building a big *** setup and want some mean power then I suggest another route. but its your car, do as you will. most learn from their mistakes. however, if your not too serious about it and you just want more power then this is a great buy for a pretty cheap price. jump on it.
that header is a good find for $150 if its in good condition. definately a steal....hopefully it all works out for you. im just suggesting if your smart and your building a big *** setup and want some mean power then I suggest another route. but its your car, do as you will. most learn from their mistakes. however, if your not too serious about it and you just want more power then this is a great buy for a pretty cheap price. jump on it.
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