i used a torqued wrench too and this is the result




what now, buy a new gasket and start from scratch? i went along and added the the oil since i still need transportation, its still leakings, same spot driver side front of the pan.

i knew i will mess up somewhere so i left the flywheel cover off just in case.
just another learning experience, it just take time and more money.

 

you dont need a torque wrench for that.

yes, definitely change the gasket and hand torque it next time.

 

just hand tight it and leave it at that?

 

just hand tight it and leave it at that?
i might be able to borrow a snap on torque wrench but if hand tightening will suffice then ill do that instead.

 

8 ft-lbs?

 

suppose to be according to the torque wrench i used.

 

just go my spec and you should be fine.

another thing to consider is getting new bolts.

for my nissan maxima, I did a tranny service and nissan recommends replacing the bolts as well as the gaskets. apparently there's antiseize and some other lubricant threaded in the new bolts. Im not certain hondas have that but maybe its worth a try.

 

i have the EXACT same problem.. while my car is at the mechanic now having a test pipe made i told him to re torque the bolts that go to the oil pan.. i thnk i over torqued them and caused it to leak alittle. is your gasket new? i just bought a new one and the same thing happened so hopefully i can still reuse it.

 

You shouldn't need to use a new gasket. The gasket is plastic enough that it'll bounce back without permanent deformation.

Use 72 in*lb's (6lb*ft) at most. I've found that this works the best. 10lb*ft is way too much. That much will fold the gasket and cause it to leak in some places.

 

dude you use threadlock?

 

*did

 

No. You won't need it b/c the nuts & bolts won't back out, even with the lower torque rating.

 

Use the proper torque. If the gasket/pan/block are ABSOLUTELY clean, and there is NO oil residue, it will not slide out like that. Make sure you only use a new gasket, reusing the old one is very ghetto. And make sure you use a small amount of Honda grey on the block where the oil pump mates up to the block, and where the rear main seal cover mates to the block. These four points will always leak after a while if you don't. If unsure, check the S/M, it will show you in there where to put the grey.

 

my method: half a wrist turn and call it a day.

 

very common problem. Mine squeezes out the same way with proper torque settings. I will try about 5-6ftlbs next time

 

make sure you do it in proper torque sequence

 

I make sure that the mating surfaces of the gasket to block and gasket to pan are COMPLETELY DRY, then I hand tighten the nuts and bolts. Haven't had a comeback in the few years I've been a tech at Acura.

 

8 ft-lbs is recommended according to the most service manuals. RTV silicone is a good replacement for an oil pan gasket but NEVER use both on the same application. Just make sure you don't put too much and get a solid coat of it all around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeAssPinoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">8 ft-lbs is recommended according to the most service manuals. RTV silicone is a good replacement for an oil pan gasket but NEVER use both on the same application. Just make sure you don't put too much and get a solid coat of it all around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check the S/M, you have to use a very small amount of RTV with the factory gasket. Just make sure you put it in the right spots, and the right spots only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeAssPinoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">8 ft-lbs is recommended according to the most service manuals. RTV silicone is a good replacement for an oil pan gasket but NEVER use both on the same application. Just make sure you don't put too much and get a solid coat of it all around.</TD></TR></TABLE>


silicone is not a option on most honda oil pans as a replacement for a gasket ....on a toyota yes but not integras ... they have dimples to hold the gasket in place and there is no way that that much silcone will dry fast enough to make a good seal

 

Don't use RTV at all. If anything use Honda bond.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1bad-eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't use RTV at all. If anything use Honda bond.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honda bond is a type of RTV.

 

Permatex 2B works too

Although the HB is 100x easier to use and does not stick/smear everywhere.

 

Ive got a similar problem, but I dont think mines leaking from the oil pan...I used a new gasket and it buldges out just like that. BTW, if you notice the little dimples on the outside edge(where the gasket goes), they act as "bump stops" and wont let the gasket squash down past what its suppose to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Honda bond is a type of RTV.</TD></TR></TABLE>I meant RTV silicone. Correct me if I'm wrong but the RTV silicone isn't the same as honda bond.