VERY SPECIFIC question about head milling/cam/valve to piston clearance
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From: Hypocrisy Capital of the World, New York
Ok....
Straight to the point.
B18c5 head, milled .030, stock spec valves, 12.1mm lift cams, stock PR3 pistons, Stock Head Gasket, Stock Deck height.
Piston to valve clearance issues? Yes or No?
Straight to the point.
B18c5 head, milled .030, stock spec valves, 12.1mm lift cams, stock PR3 pistons, Stock Head Gasket, Stock Deck height.
Piston to valve clearance issues? Yes or No?
Would like to know also, though I'm prob not gonna be going 12.1mm lift.. that's a lil too wild for me
bump.
bump.
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From: Hypocrisy Capital of the World, New York
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fatredcircle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would like to know also, though I'm prob not gonna be going 12.1mm lift.. that's a lil too wild for me
bump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it's not for everyone, but it's good to know where I stand, and I don't want to get the head milled and clay the motor and find out that it has valve to piston clearance problems...
bump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it's not for everyone, but it's good to know where I stand, and I don't want to get the head milled and clay the motor and find out that it has valve to piston clearance problems...
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From: Hypocrisy Capital of the World, New York
Intake and Exhaust duration is 284. I will be using RM M22 cams.
So basically retard the timing?
So basically retard the timing?
I wanted to bring this post back from the dead. I wanted to get omnimans opinion on this again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omniman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont go more than 4-5 degrees anvanced on the intake. remember milling the head pushed everything back about 2 degrees</TD></TR></TABLE>
Early you said that milling the head would advance the cam timing 2 degrees?
-Milling retards cam timing I thought
But my main ? is this.
If you have a head that is milled .030, and you install the cams at 0,0 is it safe to assume you are effectively at -2, -2?
If that is so should both cams be advance +2,+2 to bring it back to true zero. Or is this why a degree wheel is so important? I am a bit confused.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omniman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont go more than 4-5 degrees anvanced on the intake. remember milling the head pushed everything back about 2 degrees</TD></TR></TABLE>
Early you said that milling the head would advance the cam timing 2 degrees?
-Milling retards cam timing I thought
But my main ? is this.
If you have a head that is milled .030, and you install the cams at 0,0 is it safe to assume you are effectively at -2, -2?
If that is so should both cams be advance +2,+2 to bring it back to true zero. Or is this why a degree wheel is so important? I am a bit confused.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asubennett »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... Or is this why a degree wheel is so important? I am a bit confused.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the motor spins counter-clockwise, from the timing belt side and tensioner is on the left section the cam timing will retard as you mill head (relative to the crank obviously.)
Basically, a degree wheel is a very important tool when building a motor properly.
If the motor spins counter-clockwise, from the timing belt side and tensioner is on the left section the cam timing will retard as you mill head (relative to the crank obviously.)
Basically, a degree wheel is a very important tool when building a motor properly.
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