ok i have a few questions, how safe would a small (55-65) shot ot a wet (zex) nitrous kit be on my car with the given mods in my sig?

i know i would have to buy 1 or 2 step colder plugs and do some stuff with the fuel, injectors possibly, please elaborate for me.......

also my engine has 187k does that pose any problems? should i get a compression check first? car does run good though

i did search and didnt come up with too much comcerning amount of miles etc.. also i know you all hate this but.....what should expect to run with this set-up?

thanks a lot,
Brad

 

From what I know about nitrous and im using the zex dry shot.....I wouldnt run a wet shot until you get forged pistons and rods and I think the crankshaft. just run a 55-75 of dry.

 

n20teg - you need to do some more research. not to flame, but you need to look into it more

I'm running a 76 wet shot on my completely stock b18b block. only have i/h/e. Runs low 14s no problem. My car has over 100k less miles though. Check compression and make sure you dont have any leaks anywhere. I wouldnt suggest it, since that is a LOT of miles, but if you blow it up B18b blocks are cheap as hell to buy. You're gonna probably lay waste to your clutch though

 

ttt - isnt wet essentially the "safe" kit?

 

cant remember the name of the plugs. i think ngk br7e. you'll foul them every couple thousand miles. Check them often. Dont bother with injectors, your stock ones are fine. In fact, pretty much the only thing you need to upgrade when you put the kit on is the plugs. Everything else will hold the power. Go wet kit. Dry will hurt you more than help and DP isnt worth the low shot you'll be running. I bought an AEM fuel rail to run a line to the fuel solenoid without having to drill the stock fuel rail. If you do this make sure your jets are tuned to 38psi of fuel pressure. Shouldnt have any problems leaning out.

 

well you can run a wet shot on stock motor but its not gonna last very long

 

why wouldnt it last long? Wet shot is better than dry

 

dry kit - just sprays nitrous. hp is determined by nitrous jet

wet kit - sprays both nitrous and fuel so you dont lean out. hp is determined by both nitrous jet size and fuel jet size. you wont get perfect number. thats why i have 76

direct port - same as wet but has lines for each individual runner on the intake. perfect mixture, but its a waste for anything less than 100shot.

 

keep these respones coming - very much appriciated

what is this n00b talking about? why wouldnt i last long? try to redeem yourself with some useful information

 

nitious isnt safe for your engine period

 

saying nitrous isnt safe for a engine is like saying a turbo isnt safe for
a engine

 

Yea except it's a lot easier to **** it up if you don't know what your doing... wet kit is not the safest.

 

Wet kit actually is the safest kind to run, just like stated above. And an engine with nitrous could last a really long time as long as you don't spray 24/7, and take care of the engine.

 

Yea except it's a lot easier to **** it up if you don't know what your doing...


thats with anything u do to ur engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3 plus 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dry kit - just sprays nitrous. hp is determined by nitrous jet

wet kit - sprays both nitrous and fuel so you dont lean out. hp is determined by both nitrous jet size and fuel jet size. you wont get perfect number. thats why i have 76

direct port - same as wet but has lines for each individual runner on the intake. perfect mixture, but its a waste for anything less than 100shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>


You people need to do a lot more research. This guy is right on the money. Nitrous is only as safe as the user. Do your research and also for your application a wet kit should be suitable for you. I have a dry kit and spray 70 and that is the most I can probably spray safely. I kick myself for not going with the wet kit/ direct port, I have friends with wet kit that spray up to 100 safely on a motors with over 150,xxx miles. Its all in the user and your knowlegde.

 

For all you hating on nitrous. Its just as easy, if not easier to **** up an engine boosting than it is juicing. Why all the nitrous horror stories? Nitrous runs you $500. Turbo setup about $3000 (thats if you buy used stuff too). If you're gonna spend $3k usually you do research on it. But for $500 a lot of people wont put the research into it and end up killing their engine.

Two things you need to know. And this coming from someone who is spraying 76shot from a NOS wet kit in a STOCK B18b, making over 200hp and running low 14s.

1. Your going to go through plugs damn fast. 2 steps colder is great while on juice, but not so great off. You'll foul them after only a couple thousand miles.

2. You're going to go through nitrous really fast. And it gets expensive. $35 to fill up and you'll end up filling up more often than you want. It gets costly.


Honostly, I wouldnt squeeze on your block. You're asking for problems. Age and an instant 65hp dont go together. And zex rates jet size by how much power it makes to the wheels. That 55 shot is really closer to 65/70 and so on. You get the point. If you want to run 52 shot I can get you the exact jet sizes you'll need for 38psi (stock fuel pressure). I'd look more into spending money to rebuild a block. Nitrous gets real expensive real fast. And when you start seeing how much it costs to keep filling the bottle you're gonna start wishing you went turbo. Either build up an engine with some badass forged internals and pretty high compression to squeeze on or cut some corners and just do some minor upgrades from stock and build up a turbo motor. Hell, you could essentially buy a stock LS block with lower miles, turbo, and run 13s all day long.

 

I got an 98 RS with the Zex Wet system, Zex spark plugs, JG 301x cams, I/H/E, MSD set up, Apex I Power FC with the original stock clutch.

I have had not problems with anything. Besides the the cams everything else internaly is stock. The only thing I havent tried yet is squeezing with the Power FC since it is still untuned. With just the cams the car runs great with the Zex since it runs rich with the cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3 plus 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">n20teg - you need to do some more research. not to flame, but you need to look into it more

I'm running a 76 wet shot on my completely stock b18b block. only have i/h/e. Runs low 14s no problem. My car has over 100k less miles though. Check compression and make sure you dont have any leaks anywhere. I wouldnt suggest it, since that is a LOT of miles, but if you blow it up B18b blocks are cheap as hell to buy. You're gonna probably lay waste to your clutch though</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cheap as hell? Somebody has too much money lol.

 

not really, the going rate in so. cali for a LS block is only $250 or so. and thats complete

but bump for more info

i'm working on a 100 shot DP, all info is appreciated

 

if i were u doing nitrous i would pull it the safe rout and atleast have some parts stengthened like get some strong pistons and rods. If u are running nitrouse it would be safe to do some internals just to make everything bullet proof..

 

But if you don't have the money for internals, you can still run nitrous safely as long as you aren't stupid with it.

 

Here's my opinion for your situation -

You're working off an old block with high miles. Instead of spraying right now hunt down another LS block. Tear it apart and rebuild it with forged internals. Dont really have to go all out. Swap it into yours and yank all your working parts (alt, tranny, power steering, etc) onto the newely built block. You wont have to worry about high miles anymore (you'll have a new block pretty much) and you can spray an even bigger shot. If you do this route, though, I'd go DP and build the internals to handle much closer to a 150shot.

 

ttt

 

I think dry is safe, the wet kit can be dangerous, it mixing fuel too so i stick to the dry. I am pushing 65 in my ls - damn slow though. my clutch slips. Theres alot to research about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think dry is safe, the wet kit can be dangerous, it mixing fuel too so i stick to the dry. I am pushing 65 in my ls - damn slow though. my clutch slips. Theres alot to research about. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont know what you are talking about at all.