Source for GOOD radiator screen?
Kirk,
Try here: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/. Actually here's the link to the PDF of page 44 of their catalog: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/044.pdf
304 stainless wire cloth, searching on "wire cloth" will bring it up in the Order On-Line section too. Def. beats the stuff from the hardware stores that tarnishes after a while.
Try here: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/. Actually here's the link to the PDF of page 44 of their catalog: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/044.pdf
304 stainless wire cloth, searching on "wire cloth" will bring it up in the Order On-Line section too. Def. beats the stuff from the hardware stores that tarnishes after a while.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ace Hardware.
Chicken Wire. I painted mine black.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Chicken Wire. I painted mine black.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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catch22 is spot on. i used the heavier chickenwire as a first defense, and as a latice onto which i could attach a finer mesh household windowscreen mesh.
i am protecting a very expensive Howe combination radiator/oil cooler.
it looks perfect after a year of racing. without it, the lower section of fins would be totally battered and smashed in, plus jammed with rubber marbles.
total cost, about $10. that includes chicken wire, window mesh, and a ton of small zip ties.
i am protecting a very expensive Howe combination radiator/oil cooler.
it looks perfect after a year of racing. without it, the lower section of fins would be totally battered and smashed in, plus jammed with rubber marbles.
total cost, about $10. that includes chicken wire, window mesh, and a ton of small zip ties.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">catch22 is spot on. i used the heavier chickenwire as a first defense, and as a latice onto which i could attach a finer mesh household windowscreen mesh.
i am protecting a very expensive Howe combination radiator/oil cooler.
it looks perfect after a year of racing. without it, the lower section of fins would be totally battered and smashed in, plus jammed with rubber marbles.
total cost, about $10. that includes chicken wire, window mesh, and a ton of small zip ties.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Keep in mind that most window meshes have very little free area (less than 50% open area is not uncommon) so you're really cutting down on the airflow through the radiator.
As usual, everything is a compromise
i am protecting a very expensive Howe combination radiator/oil cooler.
it looks perfect after a year of racing. without it, the lower section of fins would be totally battered and smashed in, plus jammed with rubber marbles.
total cost, about $10. that includes chicken wire, window mesh, and a ton of small zip ties.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Keep in mind that most window meshes have very little free area (less than 50% open area is not uncommon) so you're really cutting down on the airflow through the radiator.
As usual, everything is a compromise
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Keep in mind that most window meshes have very little free area (less than 50% open area is not uncommon) so you're really cutting down on the airflow through the radiator.
As usual, everything is a compromise
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hi matt!
yup; as an engineer, this is the first thing i considered..... but, the rad i ordered from Howe was oversized; way oversized. its for a circle track racecar; rated conservatively for a 450 hp racecar running long races (200+ miles). so i think i could cut it down to almost no airflow and it would be ok. as it was, the first time out, with the mesh screen in place, i had to replace the old orifice plate i had in place of the thermostat (which is what i ran with the delsol vtec rad) with a stock thermostat. the engine wouldn't warm up at all with the orifice plate in. the rad is way overkill; i never have to worry about overheating again!
in fact, i don't run a fan (the rad is so thick that there is not clearance for one). she will stay under 200 degrees when sitting and idling, just from convection, on an average day. i have let it idle for 30+ minutes like this, observing it. gridding up and waiting for a race is no problem; in fact, i have to startup early in order to get some heat into the motor so it is ready when the green drops!
todd
Keep in mind that most window meshes have very little free area (less than 50% open area is not uncommon) so you're really cutting down on the airflow through the radiator.
As usual, everything is a compromise
</TD></TR></TABLE>hi matt!
yup; as an engineer, this is the first thing i considered..... but, the rad i ordered from Howe was oversized; way oversized. its for a circle track racecar; rated conservatively for a 450 hp racecar running long races (200+ miles). so i think i could cut it down to almost no airflow and it would be ok. as it was, the first time out, with the mesh screen in place, i had to replace the old orifice plate i had in place of the thermostat (which is what i ran with the delsol vtec rad) with a stock thermostat. the engine wouldn't warm up at all with the orifice plate in. the rad is way overkill; i never have to worry about overheating again!
in fact, i don't run a fan (the rad is so thick that there is not clearance for one). she will stay under 200 degrees when sitting and idling, just from convection, on an average day. i have let it idle for 30+ minutes like this, observing it. gridding up and waiting for a race is no problem; in fact, i have to startup early in order to get some heat into the motor so it is ready when the green drops!
todd
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