Recently since I started school it seems like everything in the hatch wants to go bad. The other day (Saturday) I woke up went to start my car, and it wouldn't turn over, just click click click. It only started when I got a jump off. The lighting on the dash works, the headlights work, the radio works, everything works fine when the car is off. So first off I need to know what exactly is going on here. Second my brakes are acting wierd, I noticed this on a trip back from Florida. When I hit the brake pedals it doesn't really slow down, changed the brake master cylinder and it didn't help, in fact it sorta made it worse or so it seems. The car half *** stops when the pedal is on the floor. And then it'll pull to one side more than the other. Oh and it's also leaking anti-freeze from somewhere, i'll have to get up under it and look later on.


So if anybody can help me on any of the problems i'd appreciate it. Oh and if anybody finds any good deals on some 205-45-16's let me know.


Thanks

 

get a new starter,

get new brake pads... (before you get brake pads bleed them to see if thats the problem)

when you install the new brake pads bleed the **** out of them

 

just hang in there bro

cars go through these dumb stages, believe me i've been there plenty of times with mine over the past three years

 

Brake pads and rotors are basically still new, I purchased them and put them on April 03'. So you think it's the starter, any definate way to be sure because I don't really like spending unecessary money when I don't have to. I've heard about some trick when you switch the ignition to the on position and take off the negative terminal ( I believe) and if you tap the battery w/the negative terminal it should cut on, or something along those lines. I'm sure somebody can clear up what I mean.

 

um, before you go out and buy a new starter, lets look at things. you said it goes click click click when you try to start, and it only starts when you have a jump? that means your batery is dead, not your starter.

as far as the brakes, are you sure they were bled properly? do you have enough fluid? i'd check simple stuff like that before you start buying new parts. good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newaccordguy2003 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um, before you go out and buy a new starter, lets look at things. you said it goes click click click when you try to start, and it only starts when you have a jump? that means your batery is dead, not your starter.

as far as the brakes, are you sure they were bled properly? do you have enough fluid? i'd check simple stuff like that before you start buying new parts. good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR-Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a new starter,</TD></TR></TABLE>
Starter makes a click noise. Starter is good

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR-Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get new brake pads... (before you get brake pads bleed them to see if thats the problem)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Car pulls to one side. Air in lines not the whole problem, if a problem at all.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR-Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you install the new brake pads bleed the **** out of them</TD></TR></TABLE>Installing new pads doesn't allow air to get into the lines unless you suck at life. Againg air and brake pads not the problem


As for your problem. If you have rear drum remove the drums and check the self adjusting mechanism to see if it is working properly. Then I would also check to make sure that your brake pads are not contaminated. Check mainly on the side that the car pulls away from when you depress the brake pedal.

 

Thanks man, I'll go and check all of the things you said a.s.a.p. Somebody else also told me that the rear drum mechanism may be the problem. What's a contaminated brake pad? never heard of that before...learn somethin new everyday.

Thanks for the help everybody.

 

Contaminated brake pad would be if there is any oil or grease on the pad taht contacts the surface of the rotor. If there is it will cause that pad to slip and the car will pull to the opposite side.

 

Well to be on the safe side, I'll charge the battery first.

 

Ok I took the battery back and they gave me a new one free since it was still under warranty. Now i'm leaking anti-freeze somewhere under the hood, still haven't figured out the brake problem either

 

Whereabouts in the general vicinity is the coolant (anti-freeze) leaking from? You wouldn't happen to have messed with your cooling system recently, would you?

 

Nope havent touched the coolant system at all recently, I looked up under the hood, and it looks as if it's dripping somewhere from under (or around) the intake mani, it's dripping on the frame bar that goes across the bottom of the car. The car shot straight up to hot earlier today, so I parked it once more!

 

take it to someone that knows what they are doing. dont drive it like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Infamous_Imports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Somebody else also told me that the rear drum mechanism may be the problem. What's a contaminated brake pad? never heard of that before...learn somethin new everyday.

Thanks for the help everybody. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the rear drum brake assembly can self adjust itself. to do this you put your car in reverse and apply the brakes a couple of times. contaminated brake pads is when you installed your brake pads, you probably got some dust or crap or grease **** on your pad or rotor. all that crap can give you grabbing brakes meaning your brakes can apply with little pressure. to bleed your brakes open your master cylinder...fill it till its to the max line or 1/4" off the top. Start from the fartest wheel from the master cylinder(passenger side back wheel) and end with the nearest side to the master cylinder(driver side front wheel) take the tires off and unscrew the bleeder screw, you need glass jar, some brake fluid a flare nut wrench to prevent stripping your bolts and another person. have the person step on the brakes, brake fluid should come out. have him hold it until you tighten the bleeder screw, when he steps on it again unscrew the bleeder screw and let it bleed again and repeat until your brake line blows no more bubbles. hope this helps...does your brake pedal vibrate when you step on the brakes?

 

ok well clicking like a machine gun is the battery....

1 click and thats it, is the starter.

if the car pulls to one side while your breaking thats your rear drums not working properly, like 1 breaking more than the other. or could be alignment, both are easy to fix. i need to replace my drums soon here.

k basicly if your leaking coolant DO NOT EVER take it for a drive ESPECIALLY since its shooting up straight hott like u said... my friend fried a k20motor in 2 minutes just by doing that when they cracked a radiator from hitting a cyote (however the **** u spell it)

i would definatley check behind the head and around the intake manifold side.. we had the same kind of leaking going on in a blazer 96LT and it was the intake manifold gasket itself.. i have a busted hose that connects to my intake man and i need to replace it.

just get those things checked out first..