Doing wheel well enclosure: USE MAT OR CLOTH FG?
New User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,963
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA, USA
Re: Doing wheel well enclosure: USE MAT OR CLOTH FG? (Goatsterrman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goatsterrman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would use fleece..IT will lay down smoother with less bubbles, and it will be a bit stronger than the mat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong you are - fleece is not a strong material at all, and should be used solely for forming a shape to be further reinforced.
go to tapplastics.com or shopmaninc.com and get some knytex. The best of both worlds - combine that stuff with some cloth and you will be ready to go.
Wrong you are - fleece is not a strong material at all, and should be used solely for forming a shape to be further reinforced.
go to tapplastics.com or shopmaninc.com and get some knytex. The best of both worlds - combine that stuff with some cloth and you will be ready to go.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: KW, ON Canada
I appreciate the help, I actually decided to use the fiberglass cloth (as I had some left over) and have the first layer down.
How many layers should I have down before I take the mold of out the car? 3 layers??
Once I get the mold done how should I attach the MDF board to the mould?
How many layers should I have down before I take the mold of out the car? 3 layers??
Once I get the mold done how should I attach the MDF board to the mould?
New User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,963
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA, USA
Re: (92BlackSi)
Cloth will take forever to build up - that's why I recommed it only for the tight curves. I would do a full 3 layers and let it cure overnight before pulling it out of the car. That way you have no chance of warping the enclosure - the overnight thing is probably way conservative, but better safe then sorry!
Generally I fiberglass in a wood frame to the mold. It sorta depends on how you want to do it - meaning if the box will be raised up or if it will be flush with the floor
Go here: http://www.sounddomain.com/id/rcurley
I have pics on two fiberglass enclosures there - I went about them two different ways.
Generally I fiberglass in a wood frame to the mold. It sorta depends on how you want to do it - meaning if the box will be raised up or if it will be flush with the floor
Go here: http://www.sounddomain.com/id/rcurley
I have pics on two fiberglass enclosures there - I went about them two different ways.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: KW, ON Canada
Sweet man, you are always a great help. I want to make it an inch or so above the floor. If I was to use the knytex should I cut it into little pieces too? Would I only need the 1 layer as opposed to 3 layers of the cloth?
Also when doing the three layers should I let the first layer dry then do the next layer?
Then I guess I need to use some cardboard and make a template for the rest of the trunk where I need to raise it aswell so everything will be at the same height. So I guess I am going to have 3 different peices that make up the trunk? one big one for the enclosure then one on each side for the rest of the trunk. How should I attach all those 3 pieces together? Just metal of some sort?
Also when doing the three layers should I let the first layer dry then do the next layer?
Then I guess I need to use some cardboard and make a template for the rest of the trunk where I need to raise it aswell so everything will be at the same height. So I guess I am going to have 3 different peices that make up the trunk? one big one for the enclosure then one on each side for the rest of the trunk. How should I attach all those 3 pieces together? Just metal of some sort?
New User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,963
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA, USA
Re: (92BlackSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92BlackSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet man, you are always a great help. I want to make it an inch or so above the floor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
IF that is the case, then I would take some wood and frame up the ouside of the box. Mask the car off, then set the frame on top (see the other fg thread that's active) Then use the knytex to attach the mold to the wood directly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I was to use the knytex should I cut it into little pieces too? Would I only need the 1 layer as opposed to 3 layers of the cloth?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Little...hmmm....When I build I cut multiple sizes, then use what is appropriate. I use 1x4, 3x6, and maybe 6x8" pieces. You don't want them too big if hte surface is very curved.
The thickness all depends on the curvature of the piece - the more curves, the thinner it has to be. I typically overbuild everything thing - 3 layers of knytex. Then you know it's strong - you could use some pices as a jack stand if you want to. It's really important to build them thick so that they don't move.
I wouldn't even consider a kick panel strong enough with 3 layers of simple cloth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also when doing the three layers should I let the first layer dry then do the next layer?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It all depends on how quick you can work without the resin "kicking" You can lay multiple layers at one time - it's actually a good thing. The multiple layers will increase the heat of hte part giving you a nice cure. But too many, and the part can crack and shrink. Basically, don't mix the resin too hot, and three layers at once is not a problem. You could do two layers in the car, then let it cure, then pull the mold and add additional layers where needed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then I guess I need to use some cardboard and make a template for the rest of the trunk where I need to raise it aswell so everything will be at the same height. So I guess I am going to have 3 different peices that make up the trunk? one big one for the enclosure then one on each side for the rest of the trunk. How should I attach all those 3 pieces together? Just metal of some sort?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's kind of a tough question. The 330Ci I did has three sections - one in the middle, then two on the ends with the curves. I supported the two sided and carpeted it as on big piece so it's seamless.
Just make sure you get a good fiberglass roller. It's going to be key to your strength. What you can actually do is that after you put down a layer and the resin starts to kick, you can put another layer on it dry...then roll that layer into the first one. The dry layer will suck out some of the extra resin that's on the previous layer.
Remember, resin doesn't make a part strong...only heavy and expensive. The resin is jsut there to keep all the fibers together.
Good luck
IF that is the case, then I would take some wood and frame up the ouside of the box. Mask the car off, then set the frame on top (see the other fg thread that's active) Then use the knytex to attach the mold to the wood directly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I was to use the knytex should I cut it into little pieces too? Would I only need the 1 layer as opposed to 3 layers of the cloth?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Little...hmmm....When I build I cut multiple sizes, then use what is appropriate. I use 1x4, 3x6, and maybe 6x8" pieces. You don't want them too big if hte surface is very curved.
The thickness all depends on the curvature of the piece - the more curves, the thinner it has to be. I typically overbuild everything thing - 3 layers of knytex. Then you know it's strong - you could use some pices as a jack stand if you want to. It's really important to build them thick so that they don't move.
I wouldn't even consider a kick panel strong enough with 3 layers of simple cloth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also when doing the three layers should I let the first layer dry then do the next layer?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It all depends on how quick you can work without the resin "kicking" You can lay multiple layers at one time - it's actually a good thing. The multiple layers will increase the heat of hte part giving you a nice cure. But too many, and the part can crack and shrink. Basically, don't mix the resin too hot, and three layers at once is not a problem. You could do two layers in the car, then let it cure, then pull the mold and add additional layers where needed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then I guess I need to use some cardboard and make a template for the rest of the trunk where I need to raise it aswell so everything will be at the same height. So I guess I am going to have 3 different peices that make up the trunk? one big one for the enclosure then one on each side for the rest of the trunk. How should I attach all those 3 pieces together? Just metal of some sort?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's kind of a tough question. The 330Ci I did has three sections - one in the middle, then two on the ends with the curves. I supported the two sided and carpeted it as on big piece so it's seamless.
Just make sure you get a good fiberglass roller. It's going to be key to your strength. What you can actually do is that after you put down a layer and the resin starts to kick, you can put another layer on it dry...then roll that layer into the first one. The dry layer will suck out some of the extra resin that's on the previous layer.
Remember, resin doesn't make a part strong...only heavy and expensive. The resin is jsut there to keep all the fibers together.
Good luck
Trending Topics
New User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,963
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA, USA
Re: (Goatsterrman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goatsterrman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, Guess I should have specified, I meant stronger than using a layer of mat alone!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only thing that fleece will do is add weight and thickness to a part - it's not going to do anything for strength. The fibers in fleece are cotton and are not very strong - glass fibers on the other hand can take a load.
So, fleece, t-shirt, grille cloth --- all of those materials are great for the initial part shaping. They also help to create a nice smooth surface to reduce the amount of body work. When it comes to strength, they add nothing - they are typically reall brittle, and crack easily.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only thing that fleece will do is add weight and thickness to a part - it's not going to do anything for strength. The fibers in fleece are cotton and are not very strong - glass fibers on the other hand can take a load.
So, fleece, t-shirt, grille cloth --- all of those materials are great for the initial part shaping. They also help to create a nice smooth surface to reduce the amount of body work. When it comes to strength, they add nothing - they are typically reall brittle, and crack easily.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
