here is my situation:

B16a obd0 bottom end with a 2000 si b16a2 0bd2 top end.

P30 obd1 ecu with a obd2 to obd1 wiring harness converter

I just noticed that the only thing i dont have hooked up correctly is the crank position sensor. obd0 bottom end doesnt have that. is that what is causing me to only be able 2 rev to only 3500.

the idle air control valve, i just found a plug that fit into the slot and ran the wire to the ecu, i think the DX IACV has 3 wires for some reason so i just left it hanging there.

what would cause me to idle so low, the car stalls out when i spin it to 3500 and let it go down by itself, i have 2 tap the gas again @ 1000 rpm to keep it from stalling then it will barely idle @ 700-500 rpm, BARELY staying alive.

i keep getting the code 21, which i think has to do with the vtec setup.

What do i do?

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mp3albums2k2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is my situation:

B16a obd0 bottom end with a 2000 si b16a2 0bd2 top end.

P30 obd1 ecu with a obd2 to obd1 wiring harness converter

I just noticed that the only thing i dont have hooked up correctly is the crank position sensor. obd0 bottom end doesnt have that. is that what is causing me to only be able 2 rev to only 3500.

the idle air control valve, i just found a plug that fit into the slot and ran the wire to the ecu, i think the DX IACV has 3 wires for some reason so i just left it hanging there.

what would cause me to idle so low, the car stalls out when i spin it to 3500 and let it go down by itself, i have 2 tap the gas again @ 1000 rpm to keep it from stalling then it will barely idle @ 700-500 rpm, BARELY staying alive.

i keep getting the code 21, which i think has to do with the vtec setup.

What do i do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

so, I'm assuming you have an OBD2a or OBD2b vehicle, correct? if so, what exact year vehicle do you own? this matters.

If you own a CX or DX and you haven't wired up your car for VTEC, knock sensor, or performed the IACV fix, then you're gonna have a few problems. If you didn't do anything about the IACV, you should be getting a code 14 along with your code 21.

btw, code 21 = vtec solenoid

Once you get these things wired in correctly and squared way, and if the ecu still doesn't let you rev past 3500rpm, you could have a faulty program on your OBD1 ecu if its chipped. But usually if the ecu program is the problem, when you can't rev past 3500rpm, the check light would stay solid and not allow you to get a Mil code once you jump the diagnostic plug.

 

98 dx hatch, unchipped jdm p30,the only code it pulls is a 21, two longer blinks and one short blink,but the codes dont repeat like a normal eg does,and its the srs light that blinks the codes ( not the check engine light), everything is wired but still throws a code 21 wtf,some one help me


Modified by mp3albums2k2 at 5:10 AM 4/20/2004

 

also the check enigne light doesnt blink at all is this normal for obd2?



Modified by mp3albums2k2 at 5:12 AM 4/20/2004

 

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There has to be a wire crossed somewhere along the ecu wiring harness. Your cel should be blinking not your srs light. Have you checked your vacuum hoses to see if they're hooked up or capped off? First wire up the iacv correctly for your dx. then try to use a different ecu to see if its lets you past 3500 rpm. And what distributor are you using?

 

I'm using a 2000si obd2 distributor

what about the bottom end not having a crank position sensor? would that have anything to do with it?


Modified by mp3albums2k2 at 8:20 PM 4/21/2004

 

I'm using a 2000si obd2 distributor

 

using that disributor it has no crank signal pickup so you need to change the distributor
or add a crank sensor

 

I had a similar problem that linked to my distributor. Different engine though.

 

ok, i checked all my wiring today again, everything seemed to be in the correct place, i still get the code 21 by the blinks given off by the SRS light instead of the cel light. Looked for a vacum leak, i replaced the hose going from the fuel pressure regulator, slightly small hose but nothing that would have been big enough to make a leak, replaced it anyway. As for the idling situation, i belive that after the car is warmed up, it seems to want to die but now it will idle, for some reason though, the idle isnt affected when i try to adjust it with a screw driver. the o2 sensor works fine now, i pulled the car out of the shop and drive it down the row, pulled to 3500rpm then redlined and then went to 2nd.

I thought that maybe i had the oil pressure sender wires hooked up wrong so i reversed them, nothing changed, did the same for the knock sensor, nothing changed.

Bad knock sensor? What are some things that cause it to go into limp mode? I had a friend tell me about one time he ran his car without the crank fluctuation sensor connected and it still ran.

i'm totaly stumped

 

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