All right, i'm wiring up an autometer rpm switch to activate my IAB solenoid via a bosch type relay. What amperage of fuse should i use?

I believe that these relays are called a 30 amp relay, so does that mean if i put in any less than a 30 amp fuse, it'll blow? What can the iab solenoid handle?

Shouldn't the rpm switch have a fuse as well? I'm running it off one of the ECU +12v wires.

thanks,

d

 

another trouble i' having is that the rpm switch only kicks out about 8 volts when it switches over at 5800. 8 volts isn't enough to open the relay circuit; needs 12v.

This is the same thing that was wrong with A17 on my p72 ecu. I could only get 4 volts out of that circuit, not enough to open the IABs or a relay.

What's wrong with this stuff? Is there a relay out there that doesn't need 12 volts to open? I'm getting fed up with these IAB's, i think i've spent half my life on them, its getting stupid. I want my low end torque for daily driving; i'm about to just put a manual switch in.

Are all automotive relays 12v activated only?

d

ps. aAARg

 

this is hown they work I guess.
this is quoted from VTECVillian
"For an OBD1 ECU, the PNK/BLU wire on the IAB sensor plug will go to A17, the YEL/BLK needs a 12V+ source. Due to it's location it's easiest to tap into any YEL/BLK wire for the injectors or the IACV.
OBD1 P72 ECU's use a 12V+ trigger for the IAB. The YEL/BLK wire connects to the 12V+ wires that go to A25 and B1 (Power Inputs) then the PNK/BLU goes to A17. The OBD2 P72 ECU's use a 12V- ground trigger."

 

ya i've been through all that last year and i couldn't get it working the proper way. nd i think i fried the circuit trying, nothing worked. thats why i'm trying alternate methods.

Can some one at least answer my relay question? Do all automotive relays need a 12 v trigger? Can any work with 4 or 8 volts? thats all i have to work with at 5800rpms.

d

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tiresmoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is hown they work I guess.
this is quoted from VTECVillian
"For an OBD1 ECU, the PNK/BLU wire on the IAB sensor plug will go to A17, the YEL/BLK needs a 12V+ source. Due to it's location it's easiest to tap into any YEL/BLK wire for the injectors or the IACV.
OBD1 P72 ECU's use a 12V+ trigger for the IAB. The YEL/BLK wire connects to the 12V+ wires that go to A25 and B1 (Power Inputs) then the PNK/BLU goes to A17. The OBD2 P72 ECU's use a 12V- ground trigger."
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this info is wrong. the OBD1 uses the A17 for the vpink and blue and the other goes to ground and OBD2 uses A26 and 12v+. sorry to miss lead anyone.
here is the link i got the missinformed info https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=814803