BRAKE UPGRADE????????
Big brake kits are expensive and require a 16 or 17" wheel.
new pads will help. About $100 for all 4 corners from tirerack.com. They have Hawk HPS and also EBC green stuff.
Slotted rotors would be about $300 for all 4 corners.
Stainless steel brake lines wont expand with heat like rubber or from the pressure of pushing the brakes.
Better brake fluid may be another option. Motul 600 or something like that seems to be the fluid of choice.
I just ordered hawk hps pads and am going to see how satisfied I am. If I want something better i'll try stainless brake lines. I don't want slotted rotors because they crack in the winter up here and i'm too lazy to change them in the fall. I opted out of a big brake kit because i want to use my 15" wheels for winter and they cost too much for me.
new pads will help. About $100 for all 4 corners from tirerack.com. They have Hawk HPS and also EBC green stuff.
Slotted rotors would be about $300 for all 4 corners.
Stainless steel brake lines wont expand with heat like rubber or from the pressure of pushing the brakes.
Better brake fluid may be another option. Motul 600 or something like that seems to be the fluid of choice.
I just ordered hawk hps pads and am going to see how satisfied I am. If I want something better i'll try stainless brake lines. I don't want slotted rotors because they crack in the winter up here and i'm too lazy to change them in the fall. I opted out of a big brake kit because i want to use my 15" wheels for winter and they cost too much for me.
You should search around these boards, plenty of information.
Here's some general improvements:
Brake fluid
pads
SS lines
Don't waste your money on drilled or slotted rotors, autozone's work fine!
Here's some general improvements:
Brake fluid
pads
SS lines
Don't waste your money on drilled or slotted rotors, autozone's work fine!
Let me make this easy for you. just get Type S brakes all around with the Type S prop valve. Even with stock brakes they are awesome. All you need now are 16 inch rims.
you'd be suprised what some good pads will do with the stock setup. You don't need slotted rotors or stainless lines. If you would like to go with larger wheels, then get the TYPE S conversion all the way around. That's what I did. Then replace the fluid with something like ATE, $11 a can and better pads.
-Victor
-Victor
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkvibe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Big brake kits are expensive and require a 16 or 17" wheel..</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats completly false. i guarantee i can out brake half the members on this board with my "upgraded brakes" under my 15 inch wheels. search is the key...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkvibe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">new pads will help. About $100 for all 4 corners from tirerack.com. They have Hawk HPS and also EBC green stuff...</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats acutally a good point. better pads = better braking.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkvibe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Slotted rotors would be about $300 for all 4 corners...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i cant believe peole still post garbage like this. look at any race car from the road racing forum and i challenge you to show me 1 honda challenge car that uses that crap!
Stainless steel brake lines wont expand with heat like rubber or from the pressure of pushing the brakes.
Better brake fluid may be another option. Motul 600 or something like that seems to be the fluid of choice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkvibe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just ordered hawk hps pads and am going to see how satisfied I am. If I want something better i'll try stainless brake lines. I don't want slotted rotors because they crack in the winter up here and i'm too lazy to change them in the fall. I opted out of a big brake kit because i want to use my 15" wheels for winter and they cost too much for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you really dont have a clue about brakes and shouldnt be offering this kind of advice to others. stainless steel lines mean nothing on the street. this guy never mentioned anything about track driving.
thats completly false. i guarantee i can out brake half the members on this board with my "upgraded brakes" under my 15 inch wheels. search is the key...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkvibe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">new pads will help. About $100 for all 4 corners from tirerack.com. They have Hawk HPS and also EBC green stuff...</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats acutally a good point. better pads = better braking.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkvibe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Slotted rotors would be about $300 for all 4 corners...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i cant believe peole still post garbage like this. look at any race car from the road racing forum and i challenge you to show me 1 honda challenge car that uses that crap!
Stainless steel brake lines wont expand with heat like rubber or from the pressure of pushing the brakes.
Better brake fluid may be another option. Motul 600 or something like that seems to be the fluid of choice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkvibe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just ordered hawk hps pads and am going to see how satisfied I am. If I want something better i'll try stainless brake lines. I don't want slotted rotors because they crack in the winter up here and i'm too lazy to change them in the fall. I opted out of a big brake kit because i want to use my 15" wheels for winter and they cost too much for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you really dont have a clue about brakes and shouldnt be offering this kind of advice to others. stainless steel lines mean nothing on the street. this guy never mentioned anything about track driving.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats completly false. i guarantee i can out brake half the members on this board with my "upgraded brakes" under my 15 inch wheels. search is the key...</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Key word in darkvibe's post was BIG brake kit, and most are expensive, and require a BIGger wheel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i cant believe peole still post garbage like this. look at any race car from the road racing forum and i challenge you to show me 1 honda challenge car that uses that crap!</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.gti-vr6.net/library....html Read-up and you'll see why slotted are good rotors... More braking surface (over drilled), and they don't warp as easy (compared to drilled); not that he is doing any real racing as you pointed out. Good tires are also important for stopping. "i cant believe peole still post garbage like this"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you really dont have a clue about brakes and shouldnt be offering this kind of advice to others. stainless steel lines mean nothing on the street. this guy never mentioned anything about track driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It appears your opinions about brakes are extremely one-sided, and maybe you shouldnt be giving advice either....
The Key word in darkvibe's post was BIG brake kit, and most are expensive, and require a BIGger wheel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i cant believe peole still post garbage like this. look at any race car from the road racing forum and i challenge you to show me 1 honda challenge car that uses that crap!</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.gti-vr6.net/library....html Read-up and you'll see why slotted are good rotors... More braking surface (over drilled), and they don't warp as easy (compared to drilled); not that he is doing any real racing as you pointed out. Good tires are also important for stopping. "i cant believe peole still post garbage like this"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you really dont have a clue about brakes and shouldnt be offering this kind of advice to others. stainless steel lines mean nothing on the street. this guy never mentioned anything about track driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It appears your opinions about brakes are extremely one-sided, and maybe you shouldnt be giving advice either....
Actually Jeff aka ( R u Serious) does know his stuff. When it comes to brakes and his set up. And Jeff I do know what kind of brake set up you are using. 
This kid did ask for better braking power, not hard braking power for the track. So SS lines would not be needed for daily driving. So the information jeff gave you was true.
Hey Jeff, hows japan? have you moved there yet?

This kid did ask for better braking power, not hard braking power for the track. So SS lines would not be needed for daily driving. So the information jeff gave you was true.
Hey Jeff, hows japan? have you moved there yet?
I can respect that. And my response was not to the SS lines: I know they are for racing... I also wasn't saying he was wrong, but as there are MANY different braking solutions out there, there are MANY different opinions. The advice being given wasnt crap, just not his viewpoint...
Just give cobalt friction a call and they have plenty of brake pads from which you can choose from.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com
If you want better stopping power over stock just go with a better brake pad.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com
If you want better stopping power over stock just go with a better brake pad.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats completly false. i guarantee i can out brake half the members on this board with my "upgraded brakes" under my 15 inch wheels. search is the key...
thats acutally a good point. better pads = better braking.
i cant believe peole still post garbage like this. look at any race car from the road racing forum and i challenge you to show me 1 honda challenge car that uses that crap!
Stainless steel brake lines wont expand with heat like rubber or from the pressure of pushing the brakes.
Better brake fluid may be another option. Motul 600 or something like that seems to be the fluid of choice.
you really dont have a clue about brakes and shouldnt be offering this kind of advice to others. stainless steel lines mean nothing on the street. this guy never mentioned anything about track driving. </TD></TR></TABLE>
your quite an *** for not proving a single thing i said was wrong....
thats completly false. i guarantee i can out brake half the members on this board with my "upgraded brakes" under my 15 inch wheels. search is the key...
thats acutally a good point. better pads = better braking.
i cant believe peole still post garbage like this. look at any race car from the road racing forum and i challenge you to show me 1 honda challenge car that uses that crap!
Stainless steel brake lines wont expand with heat like rubber or from the pressure of pushing the brakes.
Better brake fluid may be another option. Motul 600 or something like that seems to be the fluid of choice.
you really dont have a clue about brakes and shouldnt be offering this kind of advice to others. stainless steel lines mean nothing on the street. this guy never mentioned anything about track driving. </TD></TR></TABLE>
your quite an *** for not proving a single thing i said was wrong....
He is trying to tell you that slotted and drilled rotors are not worth the price. Some basic rotors will do the same job the more expensive ones would do. Especiall for daily driving spending that extra cash for "name brand" rotors are not worth it except for bling.
Your stock rotors are fine for daily driving even track racing. Just up grade your brake pads to better performing ones and you should be fine.
R U serious is running a stock rotor with upgraded brake pads and his car is amazing on the track.
He may come off a little arogant at times but he does know his **** when it comes to cars. He is a pretty cool guy when you get to know him.
Your stock rotors are fine for daily driving even track racing. Just up grade your brake pads to better performing ones and you should be fine.
R U serious is running a stock rotor with upgraded brake pads and his car is amazing on the track.
He may come off a little arogant at times but he does know his **** when it comes to cars. He is a pretty cool guy when you get to know him.
I can tell he knows what he's talking about. Also have to remember I just rattled off a list of stuff that people do to brakes along with prices (for what i have looked into). I never meant to say what's good or bad or what works better than others. It was just kinda random thoughts.
You and your bro have always been cool with me bro. Plus tell me two other twins who would help the mexican with his suspension plus take him for a ride along in the car then spin.
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