OK, I tried to search for this but didnt' come up with anything too helpful.

My 97 H22A4 is really putting out the smoke screen. I'm going to replace the pistons, rings, and rod bearings, but I have three questions in the process.

First, the stock rods will work fine with the Type S pistons, correct? Both are floating and the A4 rods will handle the 11:1 fine... ?

My second question is doesn't the Type S use a larger injector, something like a 320cc? If so, will the stock A4 ones work fine? I don't have a MSD system or anything yet, and I won't be doing the swap for a week or two yet.

The third question is with the rod bearings. I know when you remove them you're suppose to replace them in the same spot. But with the new bearings Honda lists varients from A to F. Which one should I go with? I'm assuming A is like the smallest and F is the largest... should I pick something like C or D?

oh and a side question, where on the head was the piston sizes listed again? I'm going to check today at work but if someone told me the exact spot it will save me some time.

Thanks

 

bump

 

Yes your stock rods will work just fine...
I don't believe the Type-S has bigger injectors but your injectors will be sufficient...
The piston size is stamped on the the right rear corner of the block near the water pump...

 

he's right ^^ driver's side behind the timing belt cover:


the Pirate

 

As for the bearings, have the machine shop order some up when they take care of the block. They are more than capable of obtaining the correct ones along with checking all the rest of the clearances.

 

are you going standard or oversized?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludeboy555 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you going standard or oversized?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to check to see what the cylinder walls look like when i take the old ones out. If it looks more like the rings went and the walls are good then I'll go with the standard size. If not, then I'll have no real choice but to go oversized and get it bored.

As for the rod bearing sizes, I'm going to be doing the work myself, which is why I was wondering about the letters. I've been told though with new bearings it doesn't really matter, you only really have to watch that if you're putting ones you took out of the engine back in that you get them in the same location they came from.

 

how many miles are on the block...if you can find a good machine shop to do the bore and hone I would definitely go oversized...you want those pistons to fit snug...if the block is still new I would go with the standards.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludeboy555 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how many miles are on the block...if you can find a good machine shop to do the bore and hone I would definitely go oversized...you want those pistons to fit snug...if the block is still new I would go with the standards.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking the same thing, but hoping it was in good order lol. I'm thinking I will go with the oversized in the end, and on that note does anyone know a shop in the Central PA area that will do it for a good price?

 

as for the rod bearings you must measure the journals to see if they are within acceptable tolerances. This information can be obtianed in a chilton or haynes. As for a good machine shop, my fater and uncle have delt w/ DL machine shop (above A&A in State) for years in the past and never had a complaint. They also did my head work.



Modified by PhazedSI at 10:38 PM 4/17/2004

 

My pistons are type-S pistons that are oversized. 25 over to be exact. As for the bearings, I don't know yet. The crank will probably be ground due to the #2 bearing going completely.

If you are doing the work yourself, buy some plastigage and measure the clearances for you bearings. Also remember to remove the lip at the top of the cylinder wall.

 

alright, ordered the OS'ed pistons from http://www.jdmhondaparts.com. I'll keep you posted if I have any questions and also if that site is a good place to order parts from.

 

ok now i'm offically confused.

After talking to a Honda dealership, a shop that works more with V8's but would do imports (DL Automotive), and then Dynamic Motorsports down towards harrisburg.... The dealership and DL Automotive never questioned the boring and honing for the oversized pistons. Dynamic said I'd have to sleeve, even with the OEM pistons, because the boring ruins the FRM sleeves and screws up the tolerances and ****.

Anyone have any input on if and/or how much the FRM really would get screwed, and if going with the OEM OS pistons would require sleeving. I'm just trying to figure out what I do need to get this done vs what really isn't required for a NA car.

 

FRM sleeves can be bored .25mm over and that's it. That's why honda makes .25 oversize pistons.

Your rod bearing specs are read by combining the number on the rod with the number on the crank. A helms manual would be a good purchase for this info.

Type-s did not have bigger injectors.

stock rods are fine.

 

Ok, so I can do the .25mm. Damn I don't know what to do. Tempest Racing said no, I have to sleeve. Any attempt to bore the FRM screws it up or something. It does make sense that that's why Honda does have the .25mm, for older engines, and why would Honda require new sleeves?

And I did check the Prelude Shop Manual, and it does say about boring .25 over and there's no mention of sleeving at all (which again wouldn't make sense for Honda to require new sleeves). Maybe I'll call tempest back and see if they'll do it without sleeving. It's not like I'm going to be boosting or anything.

hey satan, is there any place in Canada not extremely far in from Niagara that will do it? lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FRM sleeves can be bored .25mm over and that's it. That's why honda makes .25 oversize pistons.

Your rod bearing specs are read by combining the number on the rod with the number on the crank. A helms manual would be a good purchase for this info.

Type-s did not have bigger injectors.

stock rods are fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by rjr162 at 12:21 AM 4/20/2004