ok im puttin a slave cylinder on my friends tranny, and it fits barely but the pedal is stuck to the floor, the clutch fork is pushed as far as it will go, we tried bleeding it and nothin came out, its full of fluid, and no bends in the lines, so whats the deal, i dont understand why the fork is as far as it will go, and it wont pull back any, its a 1.6 tranny

 

You have to bleed the system just like you do with brakes. You have air in the system. Pump pedal 3-5 times losen the bleeder screw. close screw pump 3-5 times. You get the pic do this til you have fluid coming out each time you open the bleeder screw. Then the air is out the system.

 

When you pump the clutch pedal, is it supposed to get stiff like the brake pedal?

 

If you have a racing clutch, it will feel stiff. But normally it shouldnt be as stiff as the brake pedal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not as stiff as a brake pedal.

1. Have someone crack the bleeder screw.
2. Press clutch to the floor.
3. Tighten the screw.
4. Release clutch.
5. Repeat 1-4 until pressure is in the system.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did this, because my clutch is fucked right now or pressure plate is, but w.e. Like Dimi said 1-5 are the best steps to get you in right path

 

When there's no pressure you have to lift the pedal with your hand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRI94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When there's no pressure you have to lift the pedal with your hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well it must be just my clutch or syncros. I don't know dude. I suck with knowing about tranny work and such. Thanks for correcting me though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk_Guy_N_S3DAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well it must be just my clutch or syncros. I don't know dude. I suck with knowing about tranny work and such. Thanks for correcting me though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, dude. I wasn't trying to correct you or anything. I don't think it has anything with syncros though. But IDK.

 

thx for the help guys but i said we tried bleeding it, im talkin the bleed screw all the way out even a few times and pumpin the **** outta the clutch pedal, any other ideas, im stupmed

 

if thats what you did then it sounds like youre not really familiar with how to properly bleed a clutch. youre supposed to push and hold down the clutch pedal, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, let go ofthe pedal. do this a couple times and check the level/refill the clutch fluid. oh and the clutch will not change in stiffness like a brake pedal will if you pump it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh and the clutch will not change in stiffness like a brake pedal will if you pump it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

But it will spring back to the engaged position more quickly the better the system is bled .

 

u gotta listen to everyone just keep bleading the system make sure u took all the plugs out of the slave cylender too. but yeah just bleed bleed bleed.

 

Ok first a couple questions. Did you replace the clutch and now have no pressure? If not, did the pressure just go out one day? I have seen a leak near the cylinder area where the assembly had to be replaced. I have also seen a kink in the line where the line was replaced with a steel braided line.

Also it sounds like your not bleeding it properly. Do you have the cap off of the cylinder where you put the DOT 3 in (forgot the technical name)? Also when bleeding, you don't actually loosen the screw until after you pump a few times, then hold the pedal down. You tighten the screw before you start pumping again.

Try giving us a little more info then perhaps you can get your problem fixed.

It will not be the synchros btw. Also if you are changing a clutch, there is no need to disable the system. Just unbolt the part that connects to the trans and let it hang still pressurized. Then reconnect once you replace the clutch.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=417910

^ Mini write up by madtownhonda. A friend and I, did this as well. Also, don't forget to press the clutch in all the way "7 Times". Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZR4DR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok first a couple questions. Did you replace the clutch and now have no pressure? If not, did the pressure just go out one day? I have seen a leak near the cylinder area where the assembly had to be replaced. I have also seen a kink in the line where the line was replaced with a steel braided line.

Also it sounds like your not bleeding it properly. Do you have the cap off of the cylinder where you put the DOT 3 in (forgot the technical name)? Also when bleeding, you don't actually loosen the screw until after you pump a few times, then hold the pedal down. You tighten the screw before you start pumping again.

Try giving us a little more info then perhaps you can get your problem fixed.

It will not be the synchros btw. Also if you are changing a clutch, there is no need to disable the system. Just unbolt the part that connects to the trans and let it hang still pressurized. Then reconnect once you replace the clutch. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is there no need to take off or take apart the tranny to replace a clutch?

 

yes man i know how to bleed brakes/ clutch, but the slave cylinder was on the car the whole time i just unbolted it from the tranny and pushed it aside and we never bled it and it werked fine with the other tranny but with the new tranny its not werkin properly, the clutch fork is pushed so far it has maybe a 1/4 inch play in it to move unlike before when it acctully had room to release, thx again but maybe he has figured it out by now, also the motor and tranny where never seperated jsut droped straight in

 

Just to straighten one thing out here...

According to the Helms, and my own experience, you don't need to close and open and close and open the clutch bleeder screw.
Hondas have a one way check valve in the system.

Open the resivoir cap
Open the bleeder
Pump the pedal slowly 7 times
Check fluid level, pump pedal 7 more times

That should move enough fluid to replace all of it.

 

same for the brakes?

 

no check valve on brakes.