The old setup; Nuespeed Race with Tokico Illuminas


the New springs. Shinny


And 2 hours into the install, just before the brakfast brake (started at 7am)



Here we go, one done 3 to go.



And now the Hawk HP+ brakes and those shinny new Brembro blanks.

1st one was easy.


NOOOOOOOO stupid soft bolt....this took 2 hours to fix....



All Done. 3 pm.


Cheers, see you all at the trac.

 

Good job. Those are 400F/450R? Should work well on the low grip crap surfaces we run on. I'm sure you'll do well. But i'll still oWn jOo with my mad-aZz 90hp EF. If only i will receive my suspension stuff before the first event...

A little trash-talk before the season-start is good...

 

I have the same spring rates

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NOOOOOOOO stupid soft bolt....this took 2 hours to fix....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Impact driver is your friend.

How did it take 2 hrs to drill out those screws?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Impact driver is your friend.

How did it take 2 hrs to drill out those screws?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tried it without an impact driver once and didn't make that mistake the 2nd time replacing rotors.

 

I bought one from Sears, i think $20. Great tool to have around. I even re-use my rotor screws now (with anti-seize... )

 

oooh, 90hp ef's own all at autocross
-spenc....who rolled the nat'l sts champ car (white one) in his 90hp monster

ps-i ran that same set-up. its not too bad. i used the gc upper shock mounts and it felt alot better. but my car was pritty low.
pps- are those bmw wheels on the car int he 1st pic? i thought they didnt fit.

 

Do the illuminas hold up well to those rates??? I was considering doing the same but wasnt sure if they will.

 

[QUOTEI bought one from Sears, i think $20. Great tool to have around. I even re-use my rotor screws now (with anti-seize... [/QUOTE]
To "THE TOOL".. I as well can now re-use these screws that used to be annoying gremlins. BTW dont forget to stake your nut! HEHEH
Where do you race? Is this a D/D how does it ride with the new rates?

 

Jsi......you got game dude.

The car rides crate, i will need a camber kit to get the 2 to 3 degrees i need, no front sway bar on the car...rear is 19mm...

The car rides great on the illuminas....Nuespeed races are almost the same rates, about 450 fronts and 350 rears.....this is a little stiff rears....the car turn nice, but have not tracked it yet....the illuminas hold fine very well damped, i would assume that once you go over 500 you over the limit of that shock for the dynamics....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Impact driver is your friend.

How did it take 2 hrs to drill out those screws?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried a Easy Out, that broke into the hole...then i drilled the head off...but the other stud had already busted off...so i had no available hole....i got the old stud out with a easy out and re chased the threads...then i attacked the one with the easy out plugged into it....that was a bitch....

 

Just use a drill and drill into the screw, pop the head off.

I think its a 5/16" or 1/4" bit that works well.

 

when my screws wouldnt come out, I drilled with a 1/4" bit I believe, until it got past the head. There was just enough left to grab the screw with the screwdriver, and turn it loose. Works everytime, and saves time compared to drilling all the way through.

 

I also purchased the manual impact driver from Sears. I've used it once and saved so much time.

 

Those rotor retainer screws should be thrown away at your first opportunity. They do nothing. Not that getting them out is easy...but once out, toss them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSiRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also purchased the manual impact driver from Sears. I've used it once and saved so much time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Paired with this, those rotor screws are out before you know it!

 

I guess those screws keep potential thieves from stealing your pretty cross drilled rotors. Or they could just get a impact driver like everyone said. Got mine on ebay for $1.

 

I got one of those too RJ. takes 2-3 hits and screw out by hand.

 

BFH 0wnz.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those rotor retainer screws should be thrown away at your first opportunity. They do nothing. Not that getting them out is easy...but once out, toss them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't recommend doing this. Every time you take a wheel off (without the rotor screws) there is a chance a small piece of rust falling in between the rotor and the hub. This can cause a really nasty brake vibration (all it takes is something 0.04" thick) I have seen this on more than one occasion.

Just get the proper tool. And if you warm up the screw with a torch (small #2 tip) slightly (does not have to be glowing red) the screw will come out REALLY easy, everytime.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I wouldn't recommend doing this. Every time you take a wheel off (without the rotor screws) there is a chance a small piece of rust falling in between the rotor and the hub. This can cause a really nasty brake vibration (all it takes is something 0.04" thick) I have seen this on more than one occasion.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm dont you think that when you torque down your wheels that it would squeeze that rust and turn it to dust?

but yea I never thought of that.....maybe I'll go out to the garage and take my wheels off to see.....I have been having a brake vibration...and they are not warped....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnjw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmm dont you think that when you torque down your wheels that it would squeeze that rust and turn it to dust?

...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You would think, but I have seen this cause brake vibrations several times.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MLogan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Got mine on ebay for $1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL!! I just checked on Ebay and although you can buy one for $1, it costs ~$15-$18 shipping!! For that amount of money, I'd rather go to my local Harbor Freight or Sears store.