I searched about the code for 14 and came up that it is the IAC Valve (Idle Air Control). Somewhere I saw that you could open the radiator and start the car and let run for like 15 mins and it might fix it. Did that, and it didn't work. I found out that the valve maybe defective but didn't see how to test to see if it maybe defective. The car runs fine, except for it is slightly jerky when acclerating.

Cliff notes, took out the motor to have the engine bay painted. and after reinstalling the motor (98 D16y8) it is throwing a CEL 14 which is IAC Valve (Idle Air Control) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor.

Thanks in advance for your help guys.

 

take the IACV off the car. clean it out with some carb cleaner or Brake cleaner. let it dry reinstall and bleed the cooling system ( take off radiator cap and add coolant til it stops bubbling. then get back to us

 

thanks for the quick reply, I will try that tomorrow if it isn't raining again.

 

IACV can throw code for these reasons

not enough coolant in the system
air trapped in the coolant system
defective unit
and the screen may need to be cleaned (spray carb cleaner in it while it is out)

any more questions

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IACV can throw code for these reasons

not enough coolant in the system
air trapped in the coolant system
defective unit
and the screen may need to be cleaned (spray carb cleaner in it while it is out)</TD></TR></TABLE>

add this to the list......even though its a really dumb one.
Had me stupmed for a week after my swap though.

I forget the name of the small round cylinder deal on the right
side of my d series intake manifold. Well, the plug for the IAC
and the plug for that thing are the same, and can be mixed up
if your not paying atttention. If all else fails, and you have
recently done a swap, try that.

 

i did something like this with my knock sensor and the sensor on the ac line under the IM damn **** was driving me crazy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elwood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

add this to the list......even though its a really dumb one.
Had me stupmed for a week after my swap though.

I forget the name of the small round cylinder deal on the right
side of my d series intake manifold. Well, the plug for the IAC
and the plug for that thing are the same, and can be mixed up
if your not paying atttention. If all else fails, and you have
recently done a swap, try that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I will try this first, cuz this might be the culprit. I haven't had a chance to do it cuz it is still raining here .

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

same problem here, i tried checking the IAC but had to go to work and never had enough time check it, now its raining

forgot if its y7 or 8, its non vtec

 

anyway to disable this or go around it, im runing a race manifold on my y7 it's a venom and it has no spot for a IAC, becuase im runing a type r TB

it's giving me code 14 anyway to get around this?

 

anyone?

 

OK guys, I checked the IAC vavle and it wasn't mixed up with the other plugs. I cleaned it and put it back in and it is still throwing a code. The motor sat for about 6 months before it was put in. Do you guys think that is the reason it may have gone bad, I am sure hoping it hasn't messed up because I think there are somewhere in the $200 range. If it has gone bad, can I just get one off of any d-series motor, not just the y8?

 

they are like 40 bucks, i found out i need a obd 1 sensor for the iac not the obd 2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlifestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the IACV off the car. clean it out with some carb cleaner or Brake cleaner. let it dry reinstall and bleed the cooling system ( take off radiator cap and add coolant til it stops bubbling. then get back to us</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they are like 40 bucks, i found out i need a obd 1 sensor for the iac not the obd 2</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really, where can I get one for that price? NAPA or Autozone? I will try to call some places tomorrow.

 

My Local Shoped Hooked it up
DNR

 

Autozone wants 155.99 new for it, can you get me one for 40-50? I read somewhere that it might not be the Idle Air Control Valve it my be a vaccum line that is mixed up. If this is true, it might be the reason my fluxuates. Say when I am riding in 4th gear and I let off the gas but leave it in 4th it bucks like I don't know who to drive stick...

 

40-50 is a used IAC not new, definately not honda oem brand new

 

I also have a code 14 right now.

It has happened after my d15b7 intake manifold and throttle body were swapped to a d16z6 IM and a GSR tb.

It surges so bad that we had to unplug the IAC and just use the manual turn screw (or whatever the hell it's called)

Now if I give it a tiny bit of gas, it bucks. It feels like I would be pressing the gas and then letting off repeatedly even though I am just holding the accelerator steady...

If I hook up the IAC, it just surges really bad

I don't know what to do

Once I press the accelerator down a little more, it seems to run ok, but it can't be good to go around with the CEL on...

 

I had the same code about a month ago. I took it over to a buddies house, and we tried to follow the helms thing on how to find the problem. Well, we unplugged the plug to the ECU to test the voltage, came up with nothing. Plugged it back in and the code was gone. So, try unplugging your ECU and see if that fixes it. Oh BTW, I did try just resetting it a few times and that didn't work.