I am really at my witts end. I want a GSR(b18c1) in my CRX seeing how HASPORT has a hyrdo to cable conversion. I just need to know how to do it. I was on HYBRIDHONDA and I did not see anything on the b18c into a 4th gen. Please help. Any links will be great also. My Main concern is the wiring.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=637661

 

Thank you found some good info with that but nothing on b18c1 into crx

 

 

If you are not sure of yourself or this is your first swap i would highly recommend having it done by a shop that has experience with swaps..it will cause more headaches than needed trying to do it on your own

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sulli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it will cause more headaches than needed trying to do it on your own</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very True, But the knowledge you gain is priceless. Plus if something goes wrong which always happens, You know what youve done and havent done. HT has all the info you need. Search Funtion Yo. a good helms goes a long way too

 

little run down.

Are you going obd0 or obd1 or obd2

if your going to go obd0 buy an obd0 dizzy, oxygen sensor, and use your stock crx / civic harness

if your going to go obd1 or keep all the stuff that came with your engine you bought.
now splice the dizzy connection to your crx/civic harness, do the same with injector plugs, and oxygen sensor. You are all going to need a subharness from hasport for a gsr/vtec car....unless your skilled enough to make one. Also talk to 90blownhatch and buy a conversion harness from him so you can use your obd 1 or 2 ecu....if you have questions 90blownhatch will help just make sure to buy his **** beotch!

get some mounts from your favorite company along with a shiftlinkage....i was a hardcore so i got axles, shiftlinkage adn mounts along with wiring harness from hasport...bill was a little over 1000 ouch!

pull your old engine and tranny out. Now follow instructions for installing mounts onto new engine. Now use a hammer to smack a dent into driver side shock tower thing...someone please get a picture. So now you have alternator clearnace...you can also get a shorter belt if you dont want to smack a dent into your tower....somoene know the belt number please respond with it!
now sit that engine in there fool and mount that beotch up. It should be crazy fast now. So drive responsible. I'm not a very good thug so i dont even think i can say beotch right lol. Good luck drive responsible.

If I left stuff out and somoene honestly thinks that fix some stuff i typed please do. I'm just trying to point him on the right track. ALso dont go to the shop unless your totally postiive that this sounds way to hard. And if your going to come to a shop bring some money.


I forgot about the hydro to cable part so here it is. right from hasports site.

i didnt write this i just grabbed it from hasport.com

Hydraulic conversion installation:



Do these first steps before the engine is installed into the engine bay.

Bolt the release arm lever and bracket to the front of the transmission using the top two of three 12mm boltholes on the front of the transmission. Use the provided 12mm x1.25 x 35mm bolts. Torque the bolts to 45 ft/lbs.


Install the cable bracket as shown using the two 8mm x 1.25mm x 25mm bolts as shown in the picture. Torque the bolts to 19 ft/lbs. NOTE: The tapped 6mm hole between the two larger bolt holes is for the ground strap.













Mount kit and engine installation:



It is best if the radiator is removed from the car before installing the new engine so

that it will not be damaged. It will also allow for more space to maneuver the engine

into place.



The rear mount should be bolted into position after the rear cross-member has been altered for clearance. Do not attach the rear bracket to the rear mount at this time. The rear bracket should be installed later, as the engine is lowered or raised into position. It is best to have help when doing this if you are installing the engine in from the top. You will need a box end wrench to tighten the rear bolt.



The rear most stud on the hydro transmission will need to be removed in order to use the Hasport EFB2 right-hand mount. If you do not have a stud removal tool, you can double nut the stud to remove it. Place two 12mm x 1.25 nuts on the stud and tighten them against each other until the bottom nut is held in place sufficiently to loosen and unscrew the stud.



If you are installing the engine from the bottom, you can go ahead and install the right-hand mount on the transmission. If you are installing the engine from the top, you will need to drop the engine down below it's mounting position and then install the mount. Then raise the engine back into place while installing the rear bracket. Do not completely tighten the bolts on the rear bracket yet. Notice the right-hand mount has slotted holes where the mount bolts to the transmission. If the through bolt on the top of the mount does not line up perfectly the frame rail bracket you can use these slotted holes to shift the mount to the right or left to compensate. This may or may not be necessary with your car. It depends on your vehicles past history and manufacturers tolerances.



Next install the left-hand engine mount, as shown in the two pictures below, but do not completely tighten the bolts. Use the supplied 12mm x 50mm bolt and lock nut on the front bolthole and the other lock nut on the stud. Make sure you also use the 12mm washers under the lock nuts.


Now install the top bolts on the rear engine bracket where it meets the engine and the rear mount as shown in the picture to the right. Now go back and tighten the mount bolts on the right and left mounts. Finally install the two bolts on the bottom of the rear bracket where it meets the transmission and tighten all the bracket bolts. After 50 miles of driving, check and re-torque all the mount bolts to factory specifications.
















Clutch Cable Installation:



The release rod comes preset so that you should only need to adjust the clutch cable nut for perfect operation. It can be adjusted if needed but this should not be necessary.

Make sure the clutch cable adjusting nut is adjusted all the way to the top first, and then slide the clutch cable through the holder. Now raise the release lever up and slide the clutch cable into the slotted end. Then seat the clutch cable stop into the opening of the lever.


Slide the release rod over the end of the release arm on the transmission as shown and tighten the bolt until the wave-lock washer flattens completely.


Bolt the rod end of the release rod to the release lever and torque to 19 ft/lbs.


Adjust the clutch cable adjusting nut as you would normally would for your car. After test-driving the car, some additional adjusting may need to be done to get the clutch’s release point in the ideal position. You should be able to achieve this without adjusting the length of the release rod.

also if you want to see pictures

http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Installs/EFB2.htm

DEF

 

Thank you all very much. My freind owns a shop and he is going to be doing the swap he is a little unsure of obo-obd1 wiring. Well that was my impression when I told him I wanted a GSR instead of B16 like he wants me to get. His shop does good work and all that but I just wanted to know how it was done from people who know what they are talking about and that have done this before. Again thank you all very much. This is why HONDA-TECH is what it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stk crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you all very much. My freind owns a shop and he is going to be doing the swap he is a little unsure of obo-obd1 wiring. Well that was my impression when I told him I wanted a GSR instead of B16 like he wants me to get. His shop does good work and all that but I just wanted to know how it was done from people who know what they are talking about and that have done this before. Again thank you all very much. This is why HONDA-TECH is what it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ha ha yeah Honda-tech owns, I'm doing the same swap. almost finished. hit me up if you run into any problems or questions