Hey guys. I took out my spark plugs yesterday (only one week old) to check them. They had a brownish orange color. Im running JUN III so any acceptable fuel psi is 37-40 psi (according to JUN techs). I know if they were white, they would be lean, and black would be rich. But what about brownish ir orange.

 

anyone??

 

i know someone knows....please cough up the info

 

from what i know......... that color means it running perfect... very good air/fuel mixture.. hope this helps..

tj

 

if it looks like rust its all good

 

The appearance of the plugs as well as the color and kind of deposits can alert you to various kinds of problems.

· Normal worn plug - the electrodes will be worn down and the insulator will have light brown or tan-colored deposits.

· Fuel-fouled - black fluffy carbon deposits indicate an overly rich fuel mixture and/or a weak spark. Check for such things as a stuck choke, a heavy carburetor float, a fuel leak in the carburetor, a leaky injector, low coil output, high resistance in plug wires, a sluggish or dead oxygen sensor, or even a defective coolant sensor that prevents the engine's computer system from going into closed loop.

· Wet plug - a wet plug means the plug has not been firing. The problem is often due to a bad ignition cable (excessive resistance, shorted or arcing), but it can also be caused by dirt or moisture on the outside of the plug which provides a conductive path for the voltage to bypass the electrodes, or by an internal crack in the ceramic insulator that shorts the plug to ground.

· Oil-fouled - heavy black deposits, often oily in appearance, indicate oil burning. Oil drawn past the valve guides and/or the rings is entering the combustion chamber and fouling the plugs. Switching to a hotter plug may help prolong the life of the replacement plug somewhat, but such an engine is in need of major repairs. No plug is going to survive long under such conditions. Oil leaking past the valve guide seals and down the guides can also form heavy deposits on the backs of the intake valves. The deposits act like a sponge and absorb fuel which can create a momentary hesitation problem when accelerating.

· Glazed plug - yellowish melted-looking deposits on the insulator tip form when an engine normally used for stop-and-go driving is subjected to high temperature operation. A plug with a broader heat range may be recommended.

· Damaged plug - if the electrodes have been smashed flat or broken, somebody put the wrong plug in the engine. If a plug protrudes too far into the combustion chamber, it may hit the piston or a valve. A foreign object in the combustion chamber may also cause such damage.

· Overheating - if the insulator is blistered, white and free from deposits, something is making the plug run too hot. Check to see if the plug is the correct heat range. Also check for cooling problems, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixtures, or an air leak or other conditions that may be causing it to run hot.

· Melted electrode - a symptom of severe preignition. The plug has been running too hot for a long time (see overheating above).

· Detonation - if the insulator is split or chipped, detonation may be occurring in the engine. Check for over-advanced ignition timing, a defective knock sensor, excessive compression due to accumulated deposits in the combustion chamber, or an inoperative EGR valve. Switching to a higher octane fuel may be recommended.

 

I have denso iridiums and a set of NGK R. Which should I use

 

its from your octane booster
that NOS stuff does that