This might sound stupid as hell, but would it be OK for me to drive my vehicle w/out my HONDATA when it was previously installed & tuned? Reason being is because my vehicle had recently gotten broken into this past week and they took almost all of my shiet. My HONDATA, Greddy Turbo Timer, Greddy Boost Controller, and Stereo. I need to find out if I can still drive my vehicle around town for a couple of weeks until I get some money from insurance, etc. I was able to move the car from the street to my garage, but I don't know if it's driveable for a long period of time. I'm somewhat scared to go past (around) 3200rpm till boost starts kickin in. I don't want to blow up my motor in addition to getting jacked. Any suggestions or answers are welcomed. I was wondering, would I have to buy another HONDATA system or can I swap my ECU for an un-chipped one and run the car for the time being?

Cliff Notes:
01. Finally get car tuned and running w/ HONDATA.
02. 2 weeks into the install, some theives take my HONDATA from my vehicle.
03. Question is can I still drive w/out my HONDATA temporarily until I get back my parts?

 

I wouldnt drive it just because im scared i would blow something. Cause isnt HONDATA tuned into the ecu straight to the motor? Either way i wouldnt **** with it. But thats me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldnt drive it just because im scared i would blow something. Cause isnt HONDATA tuned into the ecu straight to the motor? Either way i wouldnt **** with it. But thats me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, HONDATA is tuned to my ECU, but that's why I'm wondering if it's OK to drive temporarily because I need to drive my car somewhere at least to get my stuff fixed. THIEVES

Anyone w/ some knowledge on this would be gladly appreciated. I never knew how much my life depended on having some type of transportation.

 

persoanlly i would take th springout of the waste gate so it wont boost and then run the stock ecu.
if not that then id be walking or biking.

 

THIEVES

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">persoanlly i would take th springout of the waste gate so it wont boost and then run the stock ecu.
if not that then id be walking or biking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That sounds like a good idea, but the wastegate is internal w/ the kit that I have. It's a Greddy Kit 15g. I was thinking about swapping ECU's, but I'm not positively sure if that's the right procedure to follow through with. :/ Bump, for some more solutions to my problem.

 

Bump for some more help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rickske &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This might sound stupid as hell, but would it be OK for me to drive my vehicle w/out my HONDATA when it was previously installed & tuned? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did they take your ECU or just the interface box. If they just took the blue box, you can drive it without worry, it will be limited to 4000rpm though.

 

take out ur wastegate spring

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did they take your ECU or just the interface box. If they just took the blue box, you can drive it without worry, it will be limited to 4000rpm though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, they only were able to take the blue box. So you telling me that I can drive my car, but to make sure not to boost? Will it be able to recognize the previous basemap or will I have to retune again? Thanks for all the help guys. I'm that much closer to getting my car up and running again. I just want to be able to have the car running for a couple of weeks so that I can either buy a new car or just have it so that I can go to and from work.

EDIT: It seems like everyone is suggesting that I remove my wastegate spring, but is that possible w/ the turbo (Greddy 15g) that I have even though I was told that the wastegate was internal?

 

Are you running stock injectors or larger? Running large injectors on a stock ecu will just run real rich at idle and the lower rpm ranges. Are you running the full greddy kit? Do you have some sort or rising rate fpr? That will all make a difference if you need to just drive it to get around. Stock injectors at the stock greddy preset boost level is probably ok. I think it is 6 psi or somewhere around there. I wouldn't go driving it real hard anywhere.

 

Dude.....

THERE IS NO WAY TO REMOVE THE WASTEGATE SPRING....

but dudde i just need to come over and check out the car...see how its setup..cause if its a full greddy kit it should have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator...throw in a stock ecu, some stock injectors...and run it how greddy had designed it too...you should be ok..at stock boost...

but this is all if you have the parts...ill cruise by let me know when you want me to come by

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rickske &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yup, they only were able to take the blue box. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It will run exactly the same up to the 4000 rpm rev limit if you don't have the blue box, boost included. Hondata set it up that way so the car could be driven when the interface box was in the shop getting repaired.

 

Thanks for the info Chiovnidca. Anymore suggestions? Morning Bump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pornstarSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude.....

THERE IS NO WAY TO REMOVE THE WASTEGATE SPRING....

but dudde i just need to come over and check out the car...see how its setup..cause if its a full greddy kit it should have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator...throw in a stock ecu, some stock injectors...and run it how greddy had designed it too...you should be ok..at stock boost...

but this is all if you have the parts...ill cruise by let me know when you want me to come by</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks. I'll let u know what's up. I figured that I would have to swap ECU's cause it was chipped and I don't have any stock injectors anymore. Might not even go through all this trouble and just get a new ride. I'll hit u up later Seth. Lates.

 

actually, without the blue box, the car goes into its base programming and goes into safe mode. Basicly it dumps large amts of fuel and you can't rev past 4k rpms. The way the car will run, will probably be pretty crappy(assuming you have larger injectors), so getting into boost may not be an issue and you can't rev past 4k anyways.

 

why not just pop off your a clamp from your intercooler. Seems like you have a ton of ways to keep from boosting. Just make sure you see no boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually, without the blue box, the car goes into its base programming and goes into safe mode. Basicly it dumps large amts of fuel and you can't rev past 4k rpms. The way the car will run, will probably be pretty crappy(assuming you have larger injectors), so getting into boost may not be an issue and you can't rev past 4k anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What about the s100? it uses no blue box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What about the s100? it uses no blue box.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

s100 is placed inside ECU, therefore, thieves would jsut take the entire ecu, so you couldn't go anywhere, if they didn't take the ecu, then you could just go driving around.