I tried to replace the motor yesterday and found out it was not the culprit.
It spins but when the motor was in there, my driver side window was not working.

I read in Haynes Manual that it could be the "regulator"? (since it is not the motor)
It said the push the window up and down if it is smooth.
When I did, I had to use some sort of pull to get it up and down so I guess it is not that smooth. What could be the problem? Regulator? or just the whole assembly is broken? Not sure here and I don't want to buy another part I don't need.

Thanks.

 

I'd remove the door panel and take a look at everything.

 

window switch possibly... lol. did you try applying a strait 12v hot wire to the motor just to see if the window went up and down? if so, you'll have to look at the switch and relay and regulator. the regulator is a little box that has a strip of metal in it that sits in a closed position for a complete circuit. when the window reaches full stroke the motor can't turn anymore, and to keep the motor from cooking itself that little strip will get hot from the amperage being pulled by the motor tryin to torque causing that little strip bend up and open the circuit. its a pretty simple method of regulation, but its worked for 50 some odd years. when ever working with electronics you need a digital multi-meter, a wire diagram, and knowledge of how to read both of them. always test a part that seems failed or you think is failed before replacement, saves headaches.

 

THanks. Voltage does get in the motor since when I pulled it out, it was spinning when I click the PW switch.

I am guessing the regulator but I just want to make sure.

Any idea how much is this part?

I have the door panel, the plastic, and motor out already. Any guess how difficult replacing it would be?

Thanks again.

 

i believe the regulator is pop rivited in, you'll have to drill the rivets and replace them with a bolt and nut. buy bolts and nuts from a hardware store, just make sure they fit through the holes. the part is going to be just under $70ish from honda. part number for a DC 2 door is 72211st7j02. if your car is a 4 door, its a $400 dollar part (72210st8a02). i'd suggest a junkyard. if you dont drive a dc, a da's regulator should be about the same.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3.504 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe the regulator is pop rivited in, you'll have to drill the rivets and replace them with a bolt and nut. buy bolts and nuts from a hardware store, just make sure they fit through the holes. the part is going to be just under $70ish from honda. part number for a DC 2 door is 72211st7j02. if your car is a 4 door, its a $400 dollar part (72210st8a02). i'd suggest a junkyard. if you dont drive a dc, a da's regulator should be about the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a DC (98 GSR). Off topic but why is the 4dr regulator costs 6 times more?
When you said

"regulator is pop rivited in, you'll have to drill the rivets and replace them with a bolt and nut. buy bolts and nuts from a hardware store, just make sure they fit through the holes"

is this in reference to repairing the regulator or what I need to do when replacing the regulator after I buy one?

Thanks again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3.504 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe the regulator is pop rivited in, you'll have to drill the rivets and replace them with a bolt and nut. buy bolts and nuts from a hardware store, just make sure they fit through the holes. the part is going to be just under $70ish from honda. part number for a DC 2 door is 72211st7j02. if your car is a 4 door, its a $400 dollar part (72210st8a02). i'd suggest a junkyard. if you dont drive a dc, a da's regulator should be about the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>

they also make rivet pullers, and you can get a rivet gun to put it back in the way you got it out when you replace it.

 

the actual regulator it self is rivited to the inside the door. and rivits suck... just get bolts. make it much easier to work with and just as good if not better

 

Anyone in the bay area want to fix this for me? For a $100? or make offer.

I just don't have the time to mess with it anymore and most of all, I am just an "oil change" sort of person.
Dealer wants $75 an hour for a two hour minimum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JL 74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone in the bay area want to fix this for me? For a $100? or make offer.

I just don't have the time to mess with it anymore and most of all, I am just an "oil change" sort of person.
Dealer wants $75 an hour for a two hour minimum. </TD></TR></TABLE>

reply to this thread if interested.

 

anyone?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JL 74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone in the bay area want to fix this for me? For a $100? or make offer.

I just don't have the time to mess with it anymore and most of all, I am just an "oil change" sort of person.
Dealer wants $75 an hour for a two hour minimum. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Still now working