If you don't adjust your valves for 25,000 miles......
How damaging is it to your engine. I've never done it yet, but plan to soon, just wanna know what kind of potential damage can happen from not adjusting every 15,000 or so...
Any help will be appreciated..
thomas
Any help will be appreciated..
thomas
I hear people say 15,000 miles but i was always thinking more like 30,000miles.. O well. I'll be adjust mines tomorrow so anyone wanna help .. hahah just let me know..
tj
tj
valve adjustment.. uhm. do you here a ticking from your valves.. if it's audible it most likely means your valves are out of tolerence..
c-speedracing.com has a really good instructions on how to do a valve adjustment.. and for the people like me.. they have pictures too!!
c-speedracing.com has a really good instructions on how to do a valve adjustment.. and for the people like me.. they have pictures too!!
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I just adjusted mine (20,000 miles) 5 exhaust valves were a little bit out of spec. After checking/adjusting all of the valves and flushing the oil.... the slight valve train noise went away.
FYI... I have done 4 track events with the R.
Wear will depend on usage.
Willis
FYI... I have done 4 track events with the R.
Wear will depend on usage.
Willis
This thread is providing some good info. I plan to adjust mine at 15k miles (sometime in 2003). What does the tool cost that everyone talks about getting? And where can I get it?
Haven't any of you guys looked at the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual? Or maybe you just don't care about keeping your car in good mechanical condition...?
This thread is providing some good info. I plan to adjust mine at 15k miles (sometime in 2003). What does the tool cost that everyone talks about getting? And where can I get it?
Do it once a year, or whenever you install a new set of cams.
Or if you're right there. For example, if a cam seal is leaking, adjust clearance while you're there.
I go .008" all the way around on stock or Spec A, and .010" on JUN3/Spec B. What do you guys set 'em to?
Or if you're right there. For example, if a cam seal is leaking, adjust clearance while you're there.
I go .008" all the way around on stock or Spec A, and .010" on JUN3/Spec B. What do you guys set 'em to?
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
Likes: 1
From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
Ack, I'm at 47k with no valve adjustment. Car sounds normal tho.
[Modified by rodney, 9:39 AM 10/26/2001]
1996 and earlier , Honda recommended valve adjustments every 15k. 1997-present Honda recommended valve adjustments every 30k. Acura recommends 100k intervals for valve adjustments. All this is based on the assumption that you don't rev the snots out of your motor. If the valves loosen, you valves will sound loose/ticking. If they tighten (which is more common), the engine will idle rough and lose power due to low compression in whichever particular cylinder the valves are tight in.
I've just been lazy to do mine, but <u>make sure</u> to adjust it when the engine is absolutely cold. Also DO NOT over tighten it, you'll burn a valve
yoshi - who needs to get off his 455 and change the tranny oil and do a valve adj
yoshi - who needs to get off his 455 and change the tranny oil and do a valve adj
your user manual says 30K, so i wouldn't worry about it...if you hear excessive ticking, then do it, if not, then you should be fine.
I did mine at 14,500, 9 of the valves were loose, 1 was tight, and the rest were in spec. I don't think they tighten over time, D hadn't done his in a while and they were all really loose. The car will run, but it's not that hard to do, all you need is a 10mm deep socket, a long thin flathead screwdriver, a lb-in. torque wrench is nice, and some valve tappets, from .005 inches to .008 inches. adjust the intake to .006, and the exhaust to .007, the other two are to check tolerences etc. the adjustment tool is nice, but not really necessairy, actually i think once you learn to guestimate without it before torquing the locking nut on each valve, you'll take less time than if you tried to hold the screw and tighten as you would with the tool. The above specs are for GS-R and Type R, not for non-vtec. And make sure your engine is cold when you do it, ask D what happens when you do it warm.
i'll adjust them for 75 bones and do it in under 20 minutes!! record that i know of is 16 minutes...and i had a little to drink too!! well b18cxr and i...sorry jack...didn't mean to take all of the credit!!
We'll i'm at 26,000 miles and i'm adjusting them today cuz i can hear them ticking at idle. Trust me you can hear it if you listen. Thanks for the help guys. BTW No one answered my question on what possible damage could happen with out of spec valves from never adjusting them back.. Thanks
EDIT: what store sells a 10mm lock nut wrench for the valve adjustment?? Is it that much easier with it or should I just try something else?
Tj
[Modified by tjtruong, 6:43 PM 10/26/2001]
EDIT: what store sells a 10mm lock nut wrench for the valve adjustment?? Is it that much easier with it or should I just try something else?
Tj
[Modified by tjtruong, 6:43 PM 10/26/2001]
BTW No one answered my question on what possible damage could happen with out of spec valves from never adjusting them back..
BTW No one answered my question on what possible damage could happen with out of spec valves from never adjusting them back..
Look at the reply from "00ITR#756"
Look at the reply from "00ITR#756"
tj
If the adjustment is LOOSE...
premature wear from the valve top hitting the adjustment screw. (clattering)
Worn items...
-cam lobe
-rocker arm adjutment screw
If the adjustment is TIGHT...
premature wear from the cam having constant contact with adjustment screw.
Worn items...
-cam lobe
-rocker arm sdjustment screw
-valve seat wif the compression gas can escape by the seal.
If the valves are loose it will still run... just sound like ***.
Will
[sp]
[fixed wording]
[Modified by Willard, 1:59 PM 10/26/2001]
[Modified by Willard, 2:00 PM 10/26/2001]
premature wear from the valve top hitting the adjustment screw. (clattering)Worn items...
-cam lobe
-rocker arm adjutment screw
If the adjustment is TIGHT...
premature wear from the cam having constant contact with adjustment screw.Worn items...
-cam lobe
-rocker arm sdjustment screw
-valve seat wif the compression gas can escape by the seal.
If the valves are loose it will still run... just sound like ***.
Will
[sp]
[fixed wording]
[Modified by Willard, 1:59 PM 10/26/2001]
[Modified by Willard, 2:00 PM 10/26/2001]
If the valves are to tight, you can damage/burn the valve and or valve seats.
- Aleph- The valves do tighten from running the engines at high RPMs. The valve seats actually settle into the cylinder head, thus reducing the valve clearence.
- Aleph- The valves do tighten from running the engines at high RPMs. The valve seats actually settle into the cylinder head, thus reducing the valve clearence.
Hey guys, while we are on the topic. Can anybody tell me what the difference between valve tapping and valve noise? When i first bought my R. I already hear some high pitch ticking noise. I bring it back to dealership and they say it normal valve tapping noise and i only hear it because there's no shound insulation. My R now has 15k and i hear high pitch ticking noise most of the times seem to depend engine temperature....so do you guys think my valve is off or just normal valve tapping noise?
Henry
Henry




