just a quick question for you guys.

i picked up a 92 accord EX last week for my daily driver. it has 180,000 miles on it.

runs fine except its got this really rough idle, i didn't think anything of it cause it clears right up when you get around 1k to 1500 rpm.

but i was at a light today and the damn thing stalled out and it had a hell of a time cranking back up!!!!. so i pull into a parking lot and turn it off and recrank it. cranks up then the rpms fall and it dies. try again and it took about 10 seconds of spinning it over to get it running.

WTF?!? im thinking it needs a whole new injector rail and injectors.

any ideas?!!?

 

anyone?

 

Hi all,

I am new to Honda. I have an Accord 2000 Ex with 21,000 mile. I have one problem with RPM jumping up & down then stalled. The second thing is related to transmission.

Details
- The car stalls only when it is hot, already ran for 20 minutes or more.
- It happens after turn off the engine and restart within five, while the engine is still very hot.
- The engine doesn’t die all the time.
- When the car acts up, it seems to happen after a trip on the local roads with quick stop and fast takeoff.
- When restart the engine, the RPM needle jumps up and down between 1200 –700 RPM and then move down from 700 until the engine dies.
- The engine shakes like crazy when it happens.
- When I give a little gas, the car jerks but no power and the engine is loud.
- The check engine light came on and then off. Only happened the first time when I have the problem.
- Main problem is it happens randomly. I can’t re-product the problem at will.


I am on top of scheduling maintenances with the dealers and the car runs fine. I brought it to the dealers for a diagnostic, got charge on that. Brought it back 3 weeks later for the second time. The dealers said it was the ECU. Replaced it with no charge. It was under my extended warranty. The same extra thing happened twice in a month later. Called the dealers and tried to explain what is happening with the car. They don’t want to listen or do anything until I bring in the car next Wednesday. My main concern is I CAN’T REPLCATE the problem when I needed to, in front of the dealers. And if could re-product the problem, they have to have a mechanic to check it right away.

I don’t know what to do when I go to the dealers on next Wednesday. Is there anything that I can test or check? Any ideas, suggestions are much welcome.


Second problem is RPM Needle drips about between 600 – 900 RMP when Shift to D back to R to D and to N to D. Just a mix of Shifting. Sometime I heard a louder click sound when I shift and car jerks just a little bite. I know it is normal for rpm to move when shift because of changing gears, but is it normal to be in this big range of drip?

Are these two problems related? I know my car has an extended transmission warranty, but lets not go there yet. The dealers won’t be that easy. They would have me replace many parts and charge me before they go with the warranty.

Anyway, I just want try some of the suggestions you guys have because you been there and done that and know the stuff. And I want to be able to take smart to the Dealerss. I don’t want them to BS me….. This is an ART……….

Thanks all
E

 

when was the last time you did a tune up? timing belt is due at 180K. O2 sensor(s )should have been replaced twice by now. have you kept up with all maintenance?

if you've done all this, how is your fuel efficiency? (mileage) you should be getting 24-26mpg. is the car using oil? how does the oil look?

if all your other performance is OK, take it in and ask for a compression test. you might have a burned valve.

good luck!

 

well like i said i just got the car last week.

said the timing belt had been changed.
looks like the tranny has been replaced.
yesterday when i got home from work i went to check plugs and found oil all over the part that goes down into the valve cover. so im going to need to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals today.

it leaks oil like crazy and i found that not all the oil pan bolts were tight...and a few were MISSING so i tightned the loose ones and i'll try to go find 2 bolts that were missing and get those in there. after i got that done it stopped dripping alot.


could all that oil down around the plugs cause it to misfire and idle like crap?

i know it has a misfire or a burnt valve cause i let it run yesterday and stuck my hand over the exhaust and every time it would miss you could feel it sucking back a little bit.

we shall see cause im doing the plugs when i do that gasket.

 

i'll do a comp test too

what should the readings be on these engines?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by John Gordon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> O2 sensor(s )should have been replaced twice by now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Where did you come up with this?


In reply to Fast_z28. You need to replace the o-rings at the top of the plug tubes and possibly the cam tower seals at the bottom. The o-rings are fairly easy if you can handle pulling the valve cover. The cam tower seals are a bit more difficult. Oil in the plug tubes can definately cause the car to run rough at low rpms.

 

Yes, I did a mini tune up with the dealer about 6 months ago for around $300. The problem that I am having now is after the tune. I don’t keep track on fuel because I don’t drive it enough. But the Oil is clean.

I referred to the maintenance manual; the timing belt is not due until 60,000miles. I have a long way to go.

Do you have any idea how much for a compression test? Should I go with the dealer or go outside?

Would I be notice anything if I remove and check the spark plugs for burned valve?

Thanks
E

 

ok well i have more info now that i have been driving it.

i replaced the valve cover gasket and plug seals yesterday. along with the spark plugs.

in the mornings for the 1st 5 mins it will idle smooooth but its also up at 1k
after it gets warmed up the rpms drop and then it feels like its got a cam out of a small block chevy.