Well my mom has an 88 Carburated Accord which has some problems, and I'm hoping you guys could shed some light because I don't know much about carburated cars.
1. On hard braking turns the car turns off. If you come to a stop at a stop sign, then it's fine except for the vibrating idle.
2. The speedometer doesnt' work. The light on the cluster does not illuminate on the D when you put it in Drive, but it does illuminate the other gears when put on that gear?? I pulled out the cable and put it back in all the way, but no go.
3. It idles rather poor, and causes the car to vibrate when idling.

One thing I noticed is that it doesn't get to operating temperature by itself. You have to drive it for some time for the temp to go up. Maybe the T-stat is stuck. Would that cause any of these problems, by not letting the engine warm up??

Any help will be appreciated.
p.s. I just replaced these items and still no go.
Cap + rotor
Spark plugs + wires
Oil and filter

 

That whole turning off on hard braking thing could be bad. It could be a brake line problem. Is there or has there been grease from broken CV joint dust boots stuck to the brake line for some time? This messed up my front lines once.

As far as the speedometer, check the cable. It has an actual cable going to the speed sensor on the transmission. And as far as that indicator, it's the bulb. You'll have to pull the instrument panel to get to it so do this when you check out the spedo.

The idle could be more than one thing but my guess is the AT-A/C idle boost diaphragm. It boosts the idle when you put the car in gear and when the A/C is on. It's at the back left of the carb and has a rod that goes to the throttle shaft on the oposite side of teh carb from where the peal connects (right side). It's got two hoses, I believe the inner one gets vacuum withthe car in gear, the outer one gets vacuume with A/C on. Check it with a gauge. bet the vacuum is OK but diaphragm doesn't move. It's about $80 from Majestic Honda with the shipping. Check out http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com . For me their the cheapest around.

Want more details ask. I'll check back. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the reply.
Both axles are bad because I can hear them clicking when I turn. How would that mess up the brake lines? Also, how would this cause it to turn off?

I'll check the cable, maybe it broke.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REDBARON &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both axles are bad because I can hear them clicking when I turn.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need new CV joints, not new axles.

You can buy new axles with a new CV joint and boot on there already, I'm just saying it's the CV joints making the noise.

 

Maybe someone can give a better answer but I'll take a shot. Somehow the grease deteriorates the rubber on the flexible line by the knuckle. I am not sure of the dynamics of the engine getting loaded down but I know that the power breaks are boosted using manifold vacuum and the engine seems to be effected by how hard you brake. Intake manifold vacuum is high when you're slowing down and heavy braking probably drops the vacuum. Because it is consumed by the brake booster.

I think that if a blockage occurs from the rubber line deteriorating then the booster has to do more work and that means less vacuum so maybe it leans out. All I know for sure about this is that the grease inside the CV joints can deteriorate those flexible lines if it's left on there a while and that the layers of rubber brake lines can separate and cause blockages. The rest is an educated guess.