Hating My b16 Crx today..Need some opinions / advice
Having fun with my car. Running PR3 ecu with 2 O2’s/ b16a in 91 crx si.
Failed smog miserably and started searching for possible problems on HT
Swapping o2’s took out the hesitation (or bogging) below Vtec, but two days later the distributor seized.
Makes me wonder if the distributor could have been the cause of the bogging? I’ve had the bogging for quite some time, but it would clear up at WOT, and not driving the car much I learned to live with it. After swapping the O2s everything was nice and smooth up to vtec and made me mad I didn’t fix this earlier.
Also attempted to test voltage on my O2 sensors. I probably had the wrong setting on the ohm meter but both O2’s were 3.44 and would fluctuate up to 4.5 while playing with the throttle. I think these numbers are bad because the o2s are supposed to spike like 1 to 5??
So here’s what I’m thinking:
rebuild or buy a new distributor, and replace O2’s. (150rbld, 350 for two 02’s)
Or spend a little more and convert to obd 1 since failing smog made me look into whether the o2’s were crossed or bad, and the the dizzy goes out coincidently?? (not sure about price here 1000+???)
I’ve been to two smog shops and no one has been concerned with what engine is in there just the fact that its dumping three times the amount of fuel it should be. Eventually I want to convert to obd1, but I have a usdm b16a3 bottom end that Im trying to build and these problems are not helping
So what do you think….Non op the car until its obd1, or throw 5-600 into it to get it running again and pray the 02’s were causing the emission problems.??? (I know cali sucks!!!!!)
Thanks for any comments / ideas or suggestions that help,
Failed smog miserably and started searching for possible problems on HT
Swapping o2’s took out the hesitation (or bogging) below Vtec, but two days later the distributor seized.
Makes me wonder if the distributor could have been the cause of the bogging? I’ve had the bogging for quite some time, but it would clear up at WOT, and not driving the car much I learned to live with it. After swapping the O2s everything was nice and smooth up to vtec and made me mad I didn’t fix this earlier.
Also attempted to test voltage on my O2 sensors. I probably had the wrong setting on the ohm meter but both O2’s were 3.44 and would fluctuate up to 4.5 while playing with the throttle. I think these numbers are bad because the o2s are supposed to spike like 1 to 5??
So here’s what I’m thinking:
rebuild or buy a new distributor, and replace O2’s. (150rbld, 350 for two 02’s)
Or spend a little more and convert to obd 1 since failing smog made me look into whether the o2’s were crossed or bad, and the the dizzy goes out coincidently?? (not sure about price here 1000+???)
I’ve been to two smog shops and no one has been concerned with what engine is in there just the fact that its dumping three times the amount of fuel it should be. Eventually I want to convert to obd1, but I have a usdm b16a3 bottom end that Im trying to build and these problems are not helping
So what do you think….Non op the car until its obd1, or throw 5-600 into it to get it running again and pray the 02’s were causing the emission problems.??? (I know cali sucks!!!!!)
Thanks for any comments / ideas or suggestions that help,
get a new oem distributor that will help new o2 sensors will help,then get some high octane gas and some fuel cleaners and you should pass,maybe get a new cat or tune-up..whatever will help you pass smog,you can do a search and find more specific info on this subject.
Check your basic items first(ignition components, air filter etc). Once these items are checked and have passed then start checking elsewhere. O2 sensors make their own voltage and the readings you get with a DC voltmeter should be anywhere from .1(a lean mixture) to .9(richer). The voltage should jump back and forth(called cross counts) at least several times every 30 seconds. If not cross counting you have a stuck o2.
I had the same fun a month ago or so testing my B16 hb. After doing all the tests to verify things were ok I narrowed it down to a faulty cat converter. If you need other help feel free to PM me. HTH
I had the same fun a month ago or so testing my B16 hb. After doing all the tests to verify things were ok I narrowed it down to a faulty cat converter. If you need other help feel free to PM me. HTH
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cory man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your basic items first(ignition components, air filter etc). Once these items are checked and have passed then start checking elsewhere. O2 sensors make their own voltage and the readings you get with a DC voltmeter should be anywhere from .1(a lean mixture) to .9(richer). The voltage should jump back and forth(called cross counts) at least several times every 30 seconds. If not cross counting you have a stuck o2.
I had the same fun a month ago or so testing my B16 hb. After doing all the tests to verify things were ok I narrowed it down to a faulty cat converter. If you need other help feel free to PM me. HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info. I might im you in a week or so. Just shipped the dizzy to moto-parts exchange co. They said they have done many 1st gen b16 rebuilds..
My o2's were not cross counting..shouldnt matter what setting I had on the ohm meter, but I agree they should cross count.
Everything is pretty new, except o2's and cat...Doesnt the O2 just clean up after the fact though?? :confused:
Thanks to everyone for the help,
I had the same fun a month ago or so testing my B16 hb. After doing all the tests to verify things were ok I narrowed it down to a faulty cat converter. If you need other help feel free to PM me. HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info. I might im you in a week or so. Just shipped the dizzy to moto-parts exchange co. They said they have done many 1st gen b16 rebuilds..
My o2's were not cross counting..shouldnt matter what setting I had on the ohm meter, but I agree they should cross count.
Everything is pretty new, except o2's and cat...Doesnt the O2 just clean up after the fact though?? :confused:
Thanks to everyone for the help,
dont go crazy with this, it could be a simple thing. First start by doing a tune up and reseting everything back to stock.
A MUST DO! When was the last time you changed all this?
Timing on the distributor? Set it to stock value
Change spark plugs
Change spark plug wires
Change rotor inside the distirbutor
Use the highest fuel octane, 93 I think. thats Premium gas.
Check for codes on your ECU, is your check engine light on? Check that too.
Let us know after you do all this, start eliminating stuff right off the way, then start with the brain storming part, measuring o2 sensor, etc.
A MUST DO! When was the last time you changed all this?
Timing on the distributor? Set it to stock value
Change spark plugs
Change spark plug wires
Change rotor inside the distirbutor
Use the highest fuel octane, 93 I think. thats Premium gas.
Check for codes on your ECU, is your check engine light on? Check that too.
Let us know after you do all this, start eliminating stuff right off the way, then start with the brain storming part, measuring o2 sensor, etc.
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That sucks bro, with all the emissions laws and stuff up there. I just put a b16 in my 89 crx and it doesn't run rich or check engine light at all. I'm running just one o2 sensor, and it runs perfect. Not saying that's what you should do, cause you probably wont pass smog, but it's weird how the same engines react different to the same things. Is the idle high or does it idle fine, because when a coolant temp sensor starts to go bad, i believe it'll dump a little more fuel as well, kinda like when you first start your motor in the morning. If that isn't it , it's more than likely your o2's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VeeTekCrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That sucks bro, with all the emissions laws and stuff up there. I just put a b16 in my 89 crx and it doesn't run rich or check engine light at all. I'm running just one o2 sensor, and it runs perfect. Not saying that's what you should do, cause you probably wont pass smog, but it's weird how the same engines react different to the same things. Is the idle high or does it idle fine, because when a coolant temp sensor starts to go bad, i believe it'll dump a little more fuel as well, kinda like when you first start your motor in the morning. If that isn't it , it's more than likely your o2's. </TD></TR></TABLE>
get your second o2 sensor, you gonna feel the difference!
get your second o2 sensor, you gonna feel the difference!
Check it just buy the Guaranteed to Pass (G2P) by CRC
Use it according to manufac's steps then pass smog
just that easy
My Mitsufeces passes with flying colors
Use it according to manufac's steps then pass smog
just that easy
My Mitsufeces passes with flying colors
The only thing is... I have headers on the car that have one, so I just used one. the car runs great though, it doesn't hesitate or throw check engine light or anything. It doesn't run any richer than any other car i've had. i have a map sensor from a 96 ex, and I'm telling you it runs perfect. No black smoke! I have no cats, just a free flow muffler, and there is no smoke at all. My pr3 doesn't recognize that there is no second o2, so it can't hurt performance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iNetForce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont go crazy with this, it could be a simple thing. First start by doing a tune up and reseting everything back to stock.
A MUST DO! When was the last time you changed all this?
Timing on the distributor? Set it to stock value
Change spark plugs (maybe 4000 miles?) Look clean to me
Change spark plug wires (maybe 4000 miles)
Change rotor inside the distirbutor (4000 miles, cap broke with dizzy)
Use the highest fuel octane, 93 I think. thats Premium gas. (We only get broke *** 91 here in cali)
Check for codes on your ECU, is your check engine light on? Check that too. (never threw a code until dizzy went (code 4)
Let us know after you do all this, start eliminating stuff right off the way, then start with the brain storming part, measuring o2 sensor, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think its o2s, hope its o2s, and wonder if I should get the NGK ones or go with oem honda.. I have the hook up on oem but its still 325 - 350 for two
???
Thanks again everyone
A MUST DO! When was the last time you changed all this?
Timing on the distributor? Set it to stock value
Change spark plugs (maybe 4000 miles?) Look clean to me
Change spark plug wires (maybe 4000 miles)
Change rotor inside the distirbutor (4000 miles, cap broke with dizzy)
Use the highest fuel octane, 93 I think. thats Premium gas. (We only get broke *** 91 here in cali)
Check for codes on your ECU, is your check engine light on? Check that too. (never threw a code until dizzy went (code 4)
Let us know after you do all this, start eliminating stuff right off the way, then start with the brain storming part, measuring o2 sensor, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think its o2s, hope its o2s, and wonder if I should get the NGK ones or go with oem honda.. I have the hook up on oem but its still 325 - 350 for two
???Thanks again everyone
dont get oem! here is a link for 1 O2 for $35 (if it's a 1 wire)
hope this saves you a few $$$!
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=SNS
just solder your OEM plug to it and drive!
hope this saves you a few $$$!http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=SNS
just solder your OEM plug to it and drive!
Hey Monty, dont get discouraged! I can't believe the stations are even testing that b16
Anyways, I would get the print out of your numbers, and say you're having trouble with smog in the tech section. Usually people can determine what's wrong by looking at the numbers. Is that ecu a jdm or usdm one? Aren't the jdm ecu's supposed to be horrible for smog?
-Sean
Anyways, I would get the print out of your numbers, and say you're having trouble with smog in the tech section. Usually people can determine what's wrong by looking at the numbers. Is that ecu a jdm or usdm one? Aren't the jdm ecu's supposed to be horrible for smog?-Sean
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