k first my engine light goes on ...lets say 15 min after the motor is warmed up and stays on until i shut if off then when i start the motor again the eng light will light up again but not right away it's been doing this for awhile now but since engine performance doesn't change i figure its nothing and let it ride but its getting nice out now and i wanna find out why it goes on. i thought it was my O2 sensor but i replaced that with a slightly used O2 (couple month old sensor) resetted the ECU but that didn't fix it.

second, my brake pedal goes all the way down if i slam on it. i bled my brakes 4 times even when there was no more air in the lines but no go. the car doesn't stop like how its supposed to. and with the motor running, if i pump the brake pedal, the pedal travel decreases..is it supposed to do that ?

pls help guys!

 

ECU throwing any codes?

Master cylinder might need to be changed also.

 

ECU code was O2 sensor, then i changed it to the almost brand new one, resetted the ECU but after awhile it started flashin again. its weird, when the eng light is on isn't there something wrong with the way the motor is running i mean it idles right, runs strong...what is it ? anyone ?

can someone explain to me why i need to replace my brake MC ? a friend of mine said the brake booster...sounds like a big job

 

can anyone help me ?

 

Test your 02 sensor, hook a multimeter up to it and see if your getting the correct voltage. You could have a short in the wiring. And when you check engine light comes on, the ecu retards the timing and throws more fuel into the engine. So your actually running rich, which if you run it like this for a long time, it will wear down your engine faster. The reason it takes 15 minutes for the check engine light to come on is because the engine is in open loop mode and is not getting any feedback from the 02 sensor.

 

damn thats what i need! thanks a lot i will do just that. good thing you told me about the eng running rich when the eng light comes on. i wouldn't have known. i hope its just a loose ground connection or something easy to fix

 

Brake Booster is inside of the brake MC. The whole MC is somewhere around 200 dollars new from Honda. You can replace the brake booster for cheaper.

 

about the brakes check the hose that connects from the brake master to the back of the intake manifold,maybe you have an air leak somewhere

 

k cool thanks! i'll check for that air leak. thanks a lot guys and if anyone else can help me out that'd be great.

 

the engine problem was well explained above

as for your brakes, adjust your rear drums. that makes a DRASTIC difference in pedal feel

that should solve it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kshymkiw83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake Booster is inside of the brake MC. The whole MC is somewhere around 200 dollars new from Honda. You can replace the brake booster for cheaper.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A rebuilt M/C is only about $65 USD. Replace it don't drive it till you do. Its not the booster, the M/C is failing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spaceman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">about the brakes check the hose that connects from the brake master to the back of the intake manifold,maybe you have an air leak somewhere</TD></TR></TABLE>

AIR LEAK? come on think about it. Thats a vacume line. Open it up and the car won't even idle. if it was leaking these are the two symtoms you wold get.

#1 car will idle extremely high if at all.

#2 brakes would be so hard from LACK of assist it would take 2 feet on the pedal to stop the car, and even then pedal would never go to the floor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kshymkiw83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake Booster is inside of the brake MC. The whole MC is somewhere around 200 dollars new from Honda. You can replace the brake booster for cheaper.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the booster is not inside the master cylinder. the m/c's on hondas and acuras-in my experience-will ocasionally have an internal leak which messes up the pedal feel. a reman unit in my are runs 50 dollars with a 25 dollar core. the booster is not available from most aftermarket sources, from honda it costs a fortune, and the junkyard will charge about 60 for one. you are dead wrong on everything you said.

 

He's in Germany, they may very well cost that much there.

 

most ish over there has the same value as here or higher...not usually lower.

 

Well TUV or whatever they call it there may not alow rebuilt items and new ones may be that pricey, But I know I paid $65 for my last rebuilt M/C for my honda.

 

after re-reading your problem... the seals in your master cylinder do sound like they are going bad. get a reman one for round 50-100 bucks and be happy

and btw the master cylinder is the stick thing with the resivoir on it... the booster is the big black thing (as you prolly know zcivicz)

and an air leak would make the pedal very stiff, and that'b the least of the symptoms

THERES SO MUCH B/S IN THIS THREAD ITS DISGUSTING!!

 

That actually helps me,too. My brakes suck ***. New pads and shoes and a pretty thorough bleeding didn't help. Thanks for the info.

 

thanks. i will replace the MC asap. i know for sure a rear brake adjustment isn't needed cuz i checked the wheel cylinders for leaks, nata, and re-checked how much drag the drums have, good. it'll prolly cost me more for the MC since i live in canada...thanks everyone